REPORT

On the ascent to the summit 5650 m «Tespara» via the western ridge

FIRST ASCENT

Team members:

NEKRASOV V.L. GORODETSKII V.I. Team coach: MSМК NEKRASOV V.P. August 26, 1976

I. Geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

Geological and Geographical Characteristics of the Area

Peak Chyurlenisa is located in the Shakhdarin Range (South-West Pamir) near peaks Engel'sa and Daneliaitis. With its eastern ridge, it ends a lateral spur of the Shakhdarin Range, which is located in a latitudinal direction and is surrounded by glaciers:

• Kishty-Dzherob (from the south)
• Kasper (from the north) For Peak Chyurlenisa, as well as for most of the peaks in South-West Pamir, a horizontal arrangement of rock layers is typical. A characteristic feature of the glaciation in this area is the short length of the glaciers, their extremely steep drop in the upper part, and very gentle slope in the middle and lower parts, with a small number of crevasses. The glaciers of the peaks in the area feed the Kishty-Dzherob Glacier. Its valley is 77 km long, and its surface is littered with moraine up to the highest reaches. Peak Chyurlenisa is located almost at the top of a peculiar horseshoe that encompasses the Kishty-Dzherob Glacier. The eastern side of the horseshoe is a ridge consisting of peaks:
• "5491"
• "Moskovskoy Pravdy"
• "Pamyati Zhertv Tetnulda"

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical ascents.
2. Ascent area: 4.11 (South-West Pamir).
3. Ascent object and route: p. Churlyonis (5800 m) via the center of the West Face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 58°, length of sections by difficulty categories: 1–0 m, 2–270 m, 3–350 m, 4–120 m, 5–55 m, 5B–84 m.
6. Pitons driven:
   • rock: for belay — 47, for creating RTO (Relay and Turning Point) — 8
   • ice: for belay — 0, for creating RTO — 0
   • bolt: for belay — 0, for creating RTO — 0

Description of the traverse of peaks Engels, 40 let LKSMU and the ridge of Moskovskaya Pravda with ascent to peak Engels via the south wall

COMPLETED BY THE TEAM FROM MOSCOW from July 17 to August 2, 1971

Group Composition

The team has extensive experience in joint ascents in both the Pamir and the Caucasus. All members of the main composition, except E. Smirnov, had experience with ascents of 6th category of difficulty. When forming the team in Moscow, several complications arose regarding the release and financing of participants. The Moscow Committee covered the participants' championship expenses for food; other expenses were borne by the participants. It was clear in Moscow that there should be no more than 6 people on the route due to the high steepness and complexity of the South wall of peak Engels. A few days before departure, it became known that one of the strongest team members, O. Abalakov, was not released from work; V. Bezlyudny was also unable to participate. The remaining participants traveled to the area of peak Engels. During the final departure, D.A. Filippov fell ill and had to be left at the observation group's camp. Thus, the group embarked on the route with 5 members.

Report

on the traverse of peaks Engel'sa — Marx — Shakdarinsky Ridge — Pamir (first ascent).

1. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Peaks Engel'sa and Marx

a) Geography of the Area. Both peaks are located in the Shakdarinsky Ridge, stretching in a latitudinal direction, and are its highest peaks.

• Height of peak Marx — 6726 m.
• Height of peak Engel'sa — 6510 m. The Shakdarinsky Ridge is a watershed between the Pyanj River basin (to the south) and the Shakdara River basin (to the north). Lateral ridges extending from the arrays of peaks Marx and Engel'sa divide the northern slopes into three valleys: Khatsak, Shaboy, and Nispar (from west to east). Thus, both peaks are accessible from the north only from the Shaboy valley. Here, both peaks drop with huge walls to the foot of the Marx Glacier. The peak arrays rest on granite foundations, resulting in exceptionally extensive sections of sheer walls and a blocky rock structure. Individual monolithic blocks in the array of peak Engel'sa reach 500 m. The slopes of the ridge are covered with powerful glaciation, and numerous ice falls are present, especially in the area between peaks Marx and Engel'sa. However, the relief of the Marx Glacier does not contain significant difficulties. The slopes of peaks Marx and Engel'sa from the north represent routes of the highest category of difficulty, but ascent by these paths is possible only after thorough reconnaissance.

Report

on the traverse of Peaks Engels — Marx — Shakhdarin Range — Pamir (first ascent).

1. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Peaks Engels and Marx

A. Geography of the Area

Both peaks are located in the Shakhdarin Range, which stretches in a latitudinal direction, and are its highest peaks. The height of Peak Marx is 6726 m, and Peak Engels is 6510 m. The Shakhdarin Range is a watershed between the Pyanj River basin (to the south) and the Shakhdara River basin (to the north). Lateral ridges extending from the massifs of Peaks Marx and Engels dissect the northern slopes into three valleys: Khatsak, Shabo, and Nispas (from west to east). Thus, both peaks are accessible from the north only from the Shabo valley. Here, both peaks drop with huge walls to the foot of the Marx Glacier. The massifs of the peaks rest on granite foundations, resulting in exceptionally extensive sections of completely sheer walls and a blocky rock structure. Individual monolithic blocks in the Peak Engels massif reach 500 meters. The slopes of the range are covered with powerful glaciation and numerous ice drops, especially in the area between Peaks Marx and Engels. However, the relief of the Marx Glacier does not contain significant difficulties. The northern slopes of Peaks Marx and Engels represent routes of the highest category of difficulty, but ascending these paths is possible only after careful reconnaissance. The lateral ridges bounding the Shabo valley to the east and west are much lower (5200–5400 m) and do not have significant glaciation. Routes on individual peaks are not higher than category 4B. Ascending the walls (mainly from the east) is impossible due to the exceptional crumbliness of the rocks.

B. History of Alpinist Exploration

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK ENGELSA (6510 m) VIA THE SOUTH FACE — 6B CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY

The team of climbers from the CS DSO "Trud" led by V. ROMANOV in 1988. The organizational plan included:

• Gathering all expedition participants in Osh on July 6;
• Traveling by car to the village of Isor;
• Setting up a base camp at an altitude of 4000 m;
• Acclimatization period;
• Ascending via the declared route;
• Wrapping up and evacuating the expedition. The acclimatization period included:
• Organizing a storm camp at an altitude of 4850 m.

Passport

I. Altitude class 2. South-Western Pamir, Kish-ty-Dzhërob gorge 3. Peak Engels 6510 via the "well" on the South face. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference 1160 m, length - 2382 m. 6. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 732 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route - 75°, including 6B category of difficulty - 84°. 7. Pitons driven: Rock: 176, bolt: 59, chocks: 216, ice: 12.

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION 5A first ascent Protocol No. 287 21.1.69 N. Snegirev collection 32. passed TADJIK COUNCIL OF THE SPARTAK VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY 108 (South-Western Pamir)

REPORT

on the ascent of Peak 6300 via the western edge by the team from the Ukrainian Council of the Spartak Voluntary Sports Society 6318 Peak Engels 60 Peak Komosomola Ukrainy Peak Tajikistan 10?

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Digoria, Chirh ridge, section number 2.6.
2. 300 years of St. Petersburg — 3505 m; via the North ridge.
3. Proposed 1B cat. dif.; first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference — 700 m (from the base of the ridge). Length of the key part of the route — 50 m (from the exit point to the North ridge, from point R1). Length of sections with 4 cat. dif. — 2 m. Steepness of the main part of the route — 70°.