Report

on the traverse of Peaks Engels — Marx — Shakhdarin Range — Pamir (first ascent).

1. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Peaks Engels and Marx

A. Geography of the Area

Both peaks are located in the Shakhdarin Range, which stretches in a latitudinal direction, and are its highest peaks. The height of Peak Marx is 6726 m, and Peak Engels is 6510 m.

The Shakhdarin Range is a watershed between the Pyanj River basin (to the south) and the Shakhdara River basin (to the north). Lateral ridges extending from the massifs of Peaks Marx and Engels dissect the northern slopes into three valleys: Khatsak, Shabo, and Nispas (from west to east). Thus, both peaks are accessible from the north only from the Shabo valley. Here, both peaks drop with huge walls to the foot of the Marx Glacier. The massifs of the peaks rest on granite foundations, resulting in exceptionally extensive sections of completely sheer walls and a blocky rock structure. Individual monolithic blocks in the Peak Engels massif reach 500 meters.

The slopes of the range are covered with powerful glaciation and numerous ice drops, especially in the area between Peaks Marx and Engels. However, the relief of the Marx Glacier does not contain significant difficulties. The northern slopes of Peaks Marx and Engels represent routes of the highest category of difficulty, but ascending these paths is possible only after careful reconnaissance.

The lateral ridges bounding the Shabo valley to the east and west are much lower (5200–5400 m) and do not have significant glaciation. Routes on individual peaks are not higher than category 4B. Ascending the walls (mainly from the east) is impossible due to the exceptional crumbliness of the rocks.

B. History of Alpinist Exploration

Unlike the southern slopes of the area around Peaks Marx and Engels, which were visited by climbers in 1954 (expedition of the Georgian Alpine Club led by O. Gigineishvili), in 1958, an expedition of the MGS DSO "Trud" led by V. Tikhonravov, in 1961 and 1962, expeditions of the LOS DSO "Burevestnik" led by S. Savvon, and in 1963, an expedition of the Sports Club of the Army led by Comrade Nekrasov, the area of Peaks Marx and Engels was visited from the north by only two expeditions before 1964.

In 1946, an expedition of VKFKS led by E. Abalakova penetrated the Shabo valley and made the first ascent of Peak Marx.

In 1961, an expedition of CS DSO "Spartak" led by V. Kivel made several ascents in the Khatsak valley.

The greatest contribution to the study of the orography of the area was made by the expeditions of LOS DSO "Burevestnik". In particular, they clarified the relative positions of Peaks Marx and Nikoladze (6350 m), as well as the overall layout of the adjacent ridges.

2. Conditions for the Traverse

A. Relief

A characteristic feature of the structure of the massifs of Peaks Engels and Marx is the blocky structure of the rocks, with the steepness of the slope being much greater during ascent to Peak Engels and Peak Marx than during descents (traverse from east to west). Significant overhangs are encountered in some areas. Granite blocks lack holds and footholds. There are few cracks for hammering in pitons.

The ascent to the northern edge of Peak Engels presents significant difficulties.

The saddle between the "5800 m" peak and Peak Engels faces the Shabo valley with a smooth, slab-like slope and is under fire from rocks from the "5800 m" peak.

Exceptionally extensive overhangs (up to 120 m) located on the ridge immediately behind the saddle do not allow for ascent from the saddle. Parallel to the ridge, but to the right of it, a steep, crevassed glacier rises towards the peak. It is bounded on the right and left by sheer, half-kilometer-high walls. However, in the upper part of the glacier, there is a narrow ledge on the left-hand wall (in the direction of travel) that leads under the ridge. This variant of ascent to the ridge is safer: a significant part of the path is traversed under a rock overhang. The transition from the wall to the ridge is relatively easy. However, the difficulties of movement along the ridge increase sharply as one approaches the second granite belt. At an altitude of 5800 m, the rocks are entirely covered with ice. Overcoming the second granite belt presents exceptional difficulties due to the lack of cracks for pitons and the steepness of the slopes.

Further movement along the ridge leads to steep rocks at the foot of a pinnacle. To overcome the pinnacles on the ridge, it is necessary to move to the right onto the northern wall. At an altitude of 6200 m, the wall becomes exceptionally difficult, but movement along the ridge here is completely impossible due to huge cornices hanging over the Nispas valley.

The route of ascent to Peak Marx is snow-ice. The texture of the snow cover is unfavorable: in the lower part of the wall, the ice is covered with a thin layer of snow, and in the upper part, the snow is poorly firned and has a relatively weak adhesion to the ice.

This circumstance, as well as a significant number of ice drops, does not allow for a straightforward ascent to Peak Marx. The following solutions were applied:

• In the lower part, a detour to the left (in the direction of travel) under the edge of Peak Nikoladze.
• In the upper part, a traverse to the left onto the ridge between Peaks Nikoladze and Marx.
• The ascent was made along the right part of the ice wall along a barely expressed ridge to an altitude of 6300 m to ensure safety.

The descent from the summit of Peak Marx along the route of the first ascenders does not present significant difficulties.

B. Weather

The average daily temperature in the Shakhdara basin (Djaushangos meteorological station) at an altitude of 3400 m in August 1964 was 13°C. Snow repeatedly fell in the base camp at an altitude of 4000 m. Especially heavy snowfalls occurred between July 27 and August 4. During the ascent from August 10 to 24, the weather was clear, except on August 16 and 21, when there was significant cloud cover and snow. The prevailing wind direction in the sector was from northwest to southwest.

C. Remoteness from Settlements and Exploration of the Area

The area where the expedition took place is significantly remote from the main highway of the Pamir, Osh — Khorog. Currently, the shortest road to Khorog is being built along the Shakhdara River.

The expedition's route from Dushanbe through Kalai-Khumb, Khorog, and Djilandy along the motor road to the Djaushangos meteorological station, with a total length of 300 km, took 4 days. In the upper reaches of the Shabo valley, the expedition moved with a pack caravan. The base camp was located 22 km from the meteorological station.

The orographic scheme of the Shakhdarin Range in the area of Peaks Marx and Engels, given in D.M. Zatulovsky's book "Among Snow and Rocks," has several inaccuracies, such as:

• The "5800 m" peak in the lateral spur extending north from Peak Engels is not indicated.
• The morphology of the Marx Glacier is incorrectly represented.

3. Reconnaissance and Supply Drops

A. Between July 23 and August 4

• The assault and auxiliary groups established camps "4000" and "4800".
• G. Agranovskii's group made a supply drop to the saddle between Peaks Marx and Engels from the south from the Kishti-Jarob valley.
• Budanov's group ascended the unnamed "5800 m" peak to clarify the route of ascent to Peak Engels and then climbed to the upper reaches of the glacier under Peak Engels to an altitude of 5600 meters.

B. Between August 5 and 7, a group of 9 people led by K. Konoplev

• Ascended Peak Marx via the route of the first ascenders from the Nishgar Pass.
• Made a supply drop.

C. Thus, by the start of the assault under the northern ridge of Peak Engels

• Supply drops with a total weight of over 90 kg were made at an altitude of 5600 m, on the saddle, and on the summit of Peak Marx.
• The route of ascent to Peak Engels from the north was reconnoitered.
• The route of descent from Peak Engels and ascent to Peak Marx from the saddle was reconnoitered.
• The route of descent from Peak Marx was traversed (acclimatization ascent).
• Continuous observation of the intended ascent route was conducted to determine the risk of rockfall or ice avalanches.

4. Ascent Plan and Tactical Methods

Since the traverse of Peaks Marx and Engels is a high-altitude ascent, and the passage of individual sections presents significant technical difficulties, the tactical plan was based on the team's experience accumulated in previous years:

• Ascent to Mizhirgi via the northern wall in 1961 (Caucasus, technically complex).
• Traverse of Peaks Borodino — Leningrad in 1962 (Pamir, high-altitude traverse).

Most team members are prize-winners in the competition for the best alpine achievement in both technical and high-altitude categories. In the 1964 season, the group conducted a 10-day acclimatization gathering in the Caucasus.

Since the LGS DSO "Spartak" expedition was part of the CS DSO "Spartak" expedition led by V. Abalakova, which was based to the south in the Kishti-Jarob valley, a system of continuous radio communication between both groups was established. Additionally, the timing of the groups' ascents was coordinated to ensure mutual insurance.

The ascent plan included:

• Overcoming difficult rocks of significant extent.
• Presence of complex ice relief.
• Possible routes for emergency descents or assistance to those in distress.

The following new technical means were used for the ascent:

1. Titanium ice pitons.
2. Lightweight carabiners.
3. Portable gas stoves.
4. The group had a portable "Selga" receiver, allowing them to receive weather information throughout the traverse.

6. Assault Group

1. Petr Petrovich Budanov — team captain, Master of Sports of the USSR.
2. German Leonidovich Agranovskii — deputy team captain, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR.
3. Yasen Vasilievich Dyaченко — Master of Sports of the USSR.
4. Gennadii Yanovich Il'inskii — Honored Master of Sports of the USSR.
5. Boris Borisovich Kletsko — Master of Sports of the USSR.
6. Kirill Aleksandrovich Konoplev — 1st sports category.
7. Viktor Andreevich Ovsyannikov — 1st sports category.
8. Yurii Konstantinovich Ustinov — 1st sports category.

Most of the route was traversed in the following rope teams:

• Budanov — Kletsko (Kletsko — Dyaченко)
• Konoplev — Ovsyannikov
• Ustinov — Il'inskii (Il'inskii — Ustinov — Konoplev)
• Dyachenko — Agranovskii (Budanov — Agranovskii)

Part of the route was traversed in the rope teams indicated in parentheses. Due to V. Ovsyannikov's illness, who descended from the saddle with the auxiliary group, the traverse was completed by seven participants.

7. Route Log

August 11 — at 6:00, the group departs from the assault camp "4800" located under the northern wall of Peak Engels. The direction of movement is towards the glacier under the northern wall. To the left and right of the glacier, steep walls of the counterforts of Peak Engels rise. The glacier, compressed by the rocks, is torn by huge crevasses, which can only be overcome near the rocks. In such places, the glacier forms almost sheer walls. The ice fields between the breaks have significant extent and steepness.

The preliminary reconnaissance has established the locations for overcoming crevasses and the safest path.

The first part of the ascent does not present significant difficulties (R1) due to the firm snow covering the ice; crampons hold well. Insurance is provided through an ice axe. As one ascends, the layer of firm snow becomes thinner, and on steep sections, it is necessary to hammer in ice pitons for security (R2). Movement is conducted near the left (in the direction of travel) rock border, which is not exposed to the sun. The steepness increases, but in the most difficult places, steps have been cut during the reconnaissance.

The movement is led by the Kletsko — Dyachenko rope team. The rate of ascent is significant: it is necessary to pass a section near the right rock border (in the direction of travel) before it is exposed to the sun. Overcoming the break is not complicated as a snow bridge remains. Carefully insuring each other, we reach the first ice field (R4) and immediately move left upwards. Here and further, it is not possible to move simultaneously; insurance is provided by pitons. On the ice slope (R5), old steps are used again. Continuous movement in crampons causes feet to freeze. The second ice field (R6) is located at a significant height. Movement continues on the shaded side. Ice drops follow (R7 and R8). As one ascends, the difficulty of the drops increases. The distance between hammered pitons is reduced to 6–7 meters. A small ledge on a drop leads to another break. There remains a questionable snow bridge. V. Kletsko cautiously crosses it near the rocks, with piton insurance, but he struggles to hammer in the next piton — the ice is porous (R9), and his crampons do not hold well. We proceed with extreme caution, and the pace slows slightly.

After the ice field, we reach ice-covered rocks, moving in crampons. A previously hung fixed rope is encountered here (R10). The rope is secured by pitons on the wall, under which there is a small ledge — this is where the supply drop is located. Crampons can be removed.

Further, the first rope team traverses left upwards along a small, overhanging wall (R11) and reaches a narrow rock ledge. The ledge, similar to a balcony (R12), crosses a 250-meter granite drop from right upwards to left. In the upper part of the drop, a rock cornice reliably protects against falling rocks along the entire length of the ledge.

The path to the ledge took 5 hours. After a short rest, we resume movement. The path is not difficult, but the ledge is covered with ice, and its width does not exceed one and a half meters, narrowing to half a meter in some places. Using previously driven pitons, we quickly proceed to the upper part of the ledge. Here, the ledge is intersected by an ice cone, the nearest edge of which forms an almost vertical angle with the rock wall (R13). Kletsko slowly overcomes this section with careful insurance. To ease the passage, he goes without a backpack. Water drips from above, and ice fragments fall. To avoid being hit, we have to move close to the wall.

We reach the top of the rock drop (R15) and move along its edge left upwards. But after two ropes, we turn right and move vertically upwards towards the ridge. On the ridge, there is an ideal place for a bivouac. At 19:00, the group sets up tents.

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