Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route: Maly Dalar peak, 3500 m — via the southern counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness — 50–55°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock 37 pcs., ice 0, bolted 0. for creating RTO (Relay and Belay Point): 1 pc., 0, 0.
7. Number of travel hours: 7 hours.

Dvoinyashka Peak — 3800 m

Traversing the Western and Eastern peaks (Description of the route as you move towards the summit) From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the first koshi, cross the bridge to the left bank, and follow the trail to a large talus accumulation in the gorge. After the talus, follow the riverbank to the start of the ascent up the left, grey, large moraine. Ascend along the ridge to a clearly defined confluence of two moraine ridges. From here, descend left from the moraine via a trail and ascend a grassy slope to a terrace, then continue up slopes and scree to reach the large-boulder moraine. Cross it to reach the Dalar Glacier plateau. Crossing the plateau, approach the slopes of the Dalar pass. Ascend a snowy slope to a terrace before a steep snowy ascent (80 m, 50°). In rope teams, ascend to the bergschrund — cross via a bridge and a gap (belay!). Beyond the bergschrund, ascend a snowy slope to the Dalar pass. There are platforms on the rocks. From the camp, it takes 5.5–6 hours. From the Dalar pass, descend left and down, bypassing the southern ridge of Dalar Peak, and follow the scree left of the "ram's foreheads" to the upper part of the cirque between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks, to the 1st narrow couloir on the left. Ascend the couloir (in rope teams!) 50 m up and exit to a scree terrace. From the terrace, go right through a snowpatch and then along the "ram's foreheads" (belay!) — exit right and below the saddle between Dalar and Dvoinyashka peaks. From here, traverse right along a large terrace, through a snowpatch, to a rocky outcrop, and from it descend to a depression in the southern ridge of the Western Dvoinyashka peak. Ascend 50 m straight up along broken rocks to the base of the ridge — a bivouac site. From the Dalar pass, it takes 4 hours.

2.3.60 58 Traversing the peaks: KANNY-KAYA — CHUNUR-BASHI — CHUNUR-DZHAR from "Instruktorkiy" pass — Cat. 3A in both directions. From "Uzbekol" alpine camp along the trail of Kichkinekol gorge to the stream flowing from the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier and along the trail along the stream to a green terrace. "Green campsite". From here, up the trail to the sheep's foreheads and along the ridge of the gray moraine to the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier plateau. From the campsite — 3 hours. Through the plateau to the slopes of Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund — closer to the rocks of the Filtr peak. Crossing via a bridge — belay! And further along the snowy slope for 150 m up to 45° — belay! — exit to the pass. From the plateau to the pass — 2 hours. Descent from the pass straight down to the Zamok glacier plateau. Immediately to the left under the slopes of Kichkinekol peak along the snowy slopes and terraces approach the Chungur pass. Exit to the pass along the snowy and scree slopes, guided by the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol pass to Chungur — 1–1.5 hours.

M26. Kirpich from Dalar Pass

(combined route, 1B category of complexity, first ascent by M. Lepnev, 1937) Approach the slopes of Dalar Pass via the Zapadny Dalar Glacier. Ascend to the pass via a snowy slope (35–45°) with a bergschrund, which can be traversed using a bridge or a gap. From the bivouac on the Dalar plateau — 2–4 hours, depending on the condition of the bergschrund. From the pass, head right along the long snowy ridge, sometimes along the boundary between snow and rocks, to a large snowy rise on the ridge. At the top of the rise, on the rocks, there is a large geodetic cairn. From here, traverse to the left side of the ridge and approach a snow-ice funnel. Do not ascend to its upper edge facing the Myrdy Glacier due to cornices! Cross the funnel in the middle of its slope or along the bottom if it is free of snow. Beyond the funnel, ascend a steep snowy or icy slope, leaving vertically standing gray rock blocks on the left, to a snowy ridge, which leads to the snowy-scree dome of the summit. From the pass — 3 hours. The descent follows the ascent route until the pass and takes 2 hours. To v. Maly Dalar Dalar Pass 26 Kirpich

Kirpich Peak — 3800 m

1. Ascent along the ridge from Dalar Pass — Category 1B difficulty
2. Ascent along the ridge from Mordy Pass — Category 3B difficulty
3. Ascent via the southeast wall — Category 5B difficulty

Route Description to the Summit

From the "Uzunkol" camp, along the right bank of the Mordy River to the old koshi. Then cross the bridge to the left bank and follow the path to the large gray moraine of the Dalar Glacier. Along the moraine crest to its middle part, via grassy slopes and scree (sharp descent), then along the path left-down to the terraces, and again onto the moraine (large boulders). At the end of the moraine, exit onto the glacier and, crossing it to the right, ascend the slopes (in teams!) to Dalar Pass. Cross the bergschrund under the pass via the bridge (belay!) and then ascend the snow to the pass. Beyond the pass (from the south) lies a rocky island — a bivouac site. From the camp, it takes 6–7 hours. From the bivouac, return to the pass and move left onto the snowy, partially steep ridge. Continue along the boundary between snow and rock to a large rocky ascent, and climb to the right onto the left part of the ridge and along it to the ice-snow col (belay!). From the col, ascend the steep snowy slope to the snowy ridge and along it to the summit. From the bivouac to the summit takes 4.5–5 hours. Descent from the summit to the bivouac via the ascent route takes 2.5 hours. When descending, pay attention to belaying when crossing the col — to the left are cornices, to the right is a snowy funnel!

Recommendations for Climbers

Kirpich Peak — 3800 m

Ascent route from the west via the snowy "necktie" 3A cat. diff. From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the beginning of the Mordy glacier moraine - from here, follow the trail along the grassy slopes to a large green terrace. The bivouac site - "Mordy overnight stay" - is 3-3.5 hours from the camp. From the overnight stay, head right-up along the trail to the Mordy glacier plateau. Cross the plateau and approach the snowy slopes of the "necktie". It takes 45-50 minutes from the bivouac. From here, ascend the snowy slope to the 1st rocky island (in rope teams!). Bypass the island from either side, then ascend to the next black rocky island. Bypass it on the right via a snowy bridge over the bergschrund (Belay!). Ascend the snowy slope to a long rocky island. Climb the rocks to its upper part and again transition to a steep snow slope (45° Belay!). Follow the snow slope to a rocky wall located above - to the right of a small spur of a rocky ridge. Crossing the snowy slope to the wall takes 2.5-3 hours. Along the rocky wall (60°) traverse left to a small ledge - 50-55 m (Belay! Pitons!). From here, 40 m right-up (pitons!) and 40 m left slightly up to the base of a rocky chute. Follow the chute (Piton! 30 m) to its exit and then along easy rocks to the end of the wall - 3 ropes. Above the wall is a platform - here is a control point. From the platform, follow simple rocks and small snowfields to reach the snowy ridge. It takes 3-3.5 hours from the start of the rocky wall to reach the ridge. Follow the snowy ridge to the summit - 40-50 minutes. The descent from the summit via route 1B to the Dalar pass and return to "Mordy overnight stay" takes 3-4 hours. Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 4:00 am.

Myrdy East from Myrdy Pass, 1B

Route Description:

The ascent to Myrdy Plateau is described in the route "Gvandra East from Ak-Tyube Pass" (14). From the plateau, turn left, leaving Gvandra Malaya peak to the right, and head towards Myrdy Pass. In its middle section, the glacier may be heavily broken. In this case, one should ascend to the sub-pass slope via the glacier on the left, passing under the walls of Kirpich peak. The ascent to the pass slope presents no technical difficulties. Directly under the pass rocks, a 5 m wide bergschrund may be encountered. It is overcome by descending to the bottom of the crevasse and then ascending via crumbling ledges, slippery rocks, and small talus. Beyond the pass, to the south, lies a large snow "dome" plateau. From the "dome", move right, bypassing the lower part of the eastern ridge of Myrdy peak. Ascend to the ridge via a pronounced yellow-colored talus and a long ledge. Then, moving along the snowy part of the ridge, bypass a 40-meter rock face via ledges and snow (R16–R17) and ascend to the slabs in its middle section. Beyond the slabs, follow the ridge to reach the East summit. From Myrdy bivouac — 5–6 hours. The descent via the ascent route to the bivouac takes 3 hours.

PYRAMID PEAK – 3760 m Ascent via the Eastern ridge – cat. 4B (Description of the ascent route to the summit) From the "Uzunkol" camp, follow the right bank of the Mordy River to the 4th stream at a large stone blockage in the Mordy gorge. From here, head left up the right grassy slope (trail) to the destroyed "sheep's foreheads". Continue along the green terraces under the long moraine, which goes up into the Pyramid glacier cirque. Follow the moraine to reach the glacier. On the talus islands, there's a bivouac site. From the camp, it takes 4–4.5 hours. From the overnight stay, follow the snowfield, crossing several avalanche cones (!), to the start of R1 on the eastern ridge shelf of Pyramid. (Rappel! Belay!) The slope is up to 45° in the upper part. Traverse along the first shelf, on the edge of snow and rocks, to R1 of a short wet black couloir. Climb up the couloir (Belay! Pitons!) to inclined ledges and along them (Belay! Pitons!) to R2, a large shelf – under the R3 shelf overhang. Follow the snowfield on the shelf to a 20-meter rock wall (Belay! Pitons!). Go left along the boundary of snow and rocks under the wall to an internal corner 3–4 m. Wall: exit into the corner and climb up (20 m) to the R3 shelf (Belay! Piton!). Traverse left-up along the boundary of rocks and snow for 100 m (Pitons!) to reach the ridge crest. Exit onto the crest above the "finger". From here, climb up the sharp crest to the shoulder. There's a control cairn here. From the bivouac to the shoulder, it takes 5.5–6 hours. (There are many loose rocks on the shelves. To ensure better passage, preliminary processing of the shelves is necessary the day before!). Bivouac site. No water.

Pyramid Peak — 3760 m

Ascent via the northern counterfort — Cat. 3B difficulty

Description of the ascent route to the summit

The path from the camp to the bivouac — see the description of the Cat. 4A route.

Route Description

From the Myrdı bivouac, ascend the grassy slopes towards the lower part of the eastern ridge of Pyramida. Then turn right onto the large, wide slopes cut by a chain of couloirs and scree, rising towards the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier. Reach the glacier via the large, long moraine. Continue straight up towards the clearly visible, rightmost narrow saddle on the Pyramida ridge. The ridge connects to the summit of Ak-bashi to the right. The ascent to the saddle follows a snowy slope with a steepness of up to 40°, then a narrow 100-meter couloir (ice in the second half of summer). From the saddle, descend 50 m to the other side and follow a wide, 400-meter scree shelf that wraps around the base of Pyramida from the west, approaching a large rocky outcrop. Ascend the outcrop upwards and to the left, then move onto inclined shelves above a white quartz vein (protection!). Then bypass the first rocky prominence and move towards the wedge-shaped rock protruding from the second rocky prominence on the ridge. Ascend to the wedge-shaped rock via broken rocks, then follow the inner angle - a couloir (water!) - to reach the upper scree slopes above the wall via a small R6 rock wall. Follow the scree slopes and small ridges to reach the main ridge of the summit at a large, horizontally lying slab. From here, move left and down into a small depression, then ascend to the summit via yellow rocks. 6 hours from the bivouac. Descent from the summit follows the "Pyramida via the Southeast Ridge" route.

• Departure time from the bivouac should be no later than 5 am.
• On the eve of the ascent day, mark the path to the terminal moraine of the Pyramida glacier.