Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for Classification Report Report Form for Routes of 1B–3B Category of Difficulty

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT KEZGEN VIA ROUTE 2A CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "Freeline" Pyatigorsk 11.06.2021

I. Ascent Passport

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF Soviet VoIN PEAK VIA THE ROUTE OF 3A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE FRI-LINE TEAM FROM PYATIGORSK ON SEPTEMBER 28, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

80. Aylama via the Northeast ridge-slope (ice and snow route, G. Wullea, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 17). From the Aylama camps (camp 44) cross (closed crevasses) the Western branch of the Aylama glacier and, along the snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch, move towards the Eastern walls of the Aylama summit. Here, turn right and, following the center, bypass numerous crevasses of the heavily crevassed Northwest short steep branch, which flows into the Western branch of the Aylama glacier, and approach the left side of the upper part of the Northeast ridge of the summit (closed crevasses). Then:

• 500–600 m upwards, keeping to the right side of the steep heavily crevassed ice and snow Eastern slope;
• ascend to the Northeast ridge at the point where it turns into the ice and snow slope of the summit dome. From here, ascend 300–350 m up and to the right along the steep ice and snow slope, bypassing ice cliffs and drops (avalanches, ice falls). Below are the ice falls of the North wall! Then turn left and, along the gradually flattening 400–500-meter snow slope (avalanches), reach the summit of Aylama. From the initial bivouac, 6–10 hours. M. Chertkov's group ascended to the Northeast ridge from the Dykhsu glacier. Fig. 17.

76. Aylama via the West Ridge (combined route, I. Marra, category 4B difficulty, fig. 5, 15, 17). From the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (m. 72), approach the wide snowy southern slope of the saddle between Aylama Malaya peak and the Big Sharp Gendarme of Aylama's West Ridge. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund on the left side of the steep wide snowy slope, 400–500 m up, to the right of the rocks of the East Ridge of Aylama Malaya peak. Having overcome the second bergschrund or bypassed it on the left via the rocks, 600–700 m up and to the right, towards the couloir on the left side of the Big Gendarme. Follow the winding couloir, known as the "Zmeika" (Snake) couloir, 150–200 m up, to

41. Be­laia Ne­zna­kom­ka via the South­west Ridge of the Main Ridge’s (MR) Junction Pillar (combined route, Sh. Dadesh­keliani, 4A cat. dif., fig. 5, 8). From the “Zes­ho” al­plager down along the road. Past the second bridge, turn right into the first right lateral gorge. Having passed the farm, along the trail, and then along the grassy talus, reach the moraine areas at the upper (left) part of the terminal left-bank moraine of the Neznakomka Glacier. Initial bivouac. 2–2.5 hours from the “Zesho” alplager. From the Moraine areas (departure at 3–4 am), ascend 150–200 m traversing right along the snow-firn slope of the Black Neznakomka’s Main couloir. Then traverse up and right along the ice-snow slope left of the central “ram’s foreheads” of the gorge and the ice falls of the glacier lying above them until you reach the left side of

85. Vakhushti via the Western slope (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 5, 18). From the middle plateau of the Inguri glacier (m. 89) (avalanches, ice falloffs), turn right and ascend to the right of the Lower rocky outcrop along the steep 60–80-meter ice and snow gully of Vakhushti Western slope. Then 400–500 m along the gentle ice and snow Western slope (closed crevasses, belay) to the right side of the large ice fall above the rocky outcrop located in the center of the Western slope. Go around the outcrop with the ice fall along the steep ice and snow slope on the right (avalanches, belay) with a traverse through the ice and snow 25–30-meter couloir (stones, pitons) and come out to a small rocky outcrop. From the outcrop, along the 40–60-meter ice and snow ascent (piton

127. Jangitao West via South Face (combined route, Yu. Reformatsky, cat. 5B, fig. 20, 22).

From the "Morena Khalde" base camp, cross the Khalde glacier and approach the narrow snow-ice couloir descending from beneath the main summit of Jangitao. After passing the bergschrund, ascend 150–200 m up the couloir (stones, rockfall, avalanches). Then, ascend 150 m up the snow-covered, moderately difficult rocks of the Lower Rocky Outcrop ("live" stones) to a ledge. Variant by Ya. Fleyberg and E. Kulgap group. Without entering the couloir, exit onto the rocks on the right side of the South Face's base and ascend moderately difficult and more difficult rocks upwards to the right, bypassing the couloir, to a ledge. From the ledge, ascend 200–250 m up walls, slabs, and "ram's foreheads" of more than moderate difficulty, bypassing the Yellow Tower on the right, to a ledge beneath a wall. From the ledge, ascend 100–120 m up a difficult wall ("live" stones) to the summit of the Lower Middle Rocky Outcrop. From the outcrop, descend 80–100 m down a snow-ice slope to the base of the Right Rocky Outcrop. Ascend 200–220 m up moderately difficult rocks in the center of the outcrop ("live" stones) to its summit, and then ascend a 30–40-meter steep snow-ice slope to beneath the Upper Rocky Outcrop. Ascend 150–200 m up more than moderately difficult, partly difficult rocks in the center of the outcrop to a snowy ridge on the outcrop's summit. Bivouac. 12–15 hours from the base camp. From the bivouac, ascend 300–350 m up a snow-ice slope, then 80–100 m up a narrow snow-ice couloir between the walls of the Black Tower on the right and the "Tooth" on the left to a col. Then:

• Ascend 100–120 m up moderately difficult rocks and a snow-ice slope to a col behind the Black Tower. From there:
• Ascend 200–250 m up a steep snow-ice ridge-slope with rock outcrops;
• then, ascend 120–150 m up an icy rocky couloir;

128. Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya via South Ridge (combined route, O. Kha­za­rad­ze, 5B cat. dif., fig. 20, 22). From the “Morena Khal­de” base camp, cross the Khal­de Glacier and approach the right side of the broad triangular base of the South Ridge of Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya peak. To the left of the hanging glacier’s debris flows, 60 m to the right of the waterfall, via a rangklyuft, ascend 40–60 m up challenging and above-average-difficulty walls, slabs, and corners to a steep snowy slab — a ledge. Traverse 100–150 m left along the slab — ledge. After crossing the waterfall stream, approach a corner — couloir. Ascend 350–400 m up steep rocks of average and above-average difficulty with short challenging walls and ice-snow sections on the left side of the corner — couloir (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to the ledge of the Left Ridge of the triangle. Set up a bivouac on the ledge. 10–14 hrs from the base camp. From the ledge, ascend 150–200 m up a steep ice-snow couloir of above-average difficulty or the rocks on its right or left side (loose rocks, “live” rocks) to a ledge. Then, ascend 250–300 m up a steep ice-snow ridge — slope, rocks of average difficulty (“live” rocks), slabs, and an oblique snowy ledge to a ledge. Set up a bivouac. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the ledge, ascend 400–500 m up the sharp snowy-rocky South Ridge of average difficulty, overcoming gendarmes head-on, bypassing a tower on the right, to a saddle. Set up a bivouac on the snowy slope behind the saddle. 8–10 hrs from the previous bivouac. From the bivouac, ascend 50–60 m up rocks of average difficulty, then traverse 200–250 m up the destroyed and snowy-rocky South Ridge (cornices) to reach the summit of Dzhangi­tau Za­pad­naya. 10–12 hrs from the previous bivouac.

86. Inguri via the Southwest Edge (a combined route, V. Sycheva, category 4B difficulty, fig. 5, 18). On the right side of the broken Middle Plateau of the Inguri glacier (m. 89) (closed crevasses, avalanches on the right, icefall collapses) approach the Southwest slopes of the Inguri summit. 120–150 m from the Western ridge of Inguri, turn right and ascend 350–400 m up the broken ice-and-snow slope. Having passed to the right of the base of the Southwest Edge, behind the gendarme turn left and ascend 120–150 m to a scree area on the Southwest Edge. From the Upper Inguri Plateau 4–5 hours. Here, turn right and ascend 120–150 m up simple, heavily destroyed rocks of the Southwest Edge. 40 m up to the left of the corner, ascend a wall of above-average difficulty to a wide ledge. From the ledge, 40 m up steep rocks of average difficulty to an ice-and-snow slope. Then 100–120 m up and to the right along a steep ice-and-snow slope with rock outcrops to the shoulder. From the shoulder, 40–50 m up a wall of above-average difficulty on the left side of the Southwest Edge (key location) to the Southwest Edge. By the wide, snow-covered Southwest Edge, reach a plateau (cairn). From the glacier 6–8 hours. From the plateau, 200–220 m up rocks of average difficulty of the wide South Edge to a 20-meter ascent, which is overcome by a wall of above-average difficulty. Then 100 m along simple and average difficulty snow-covered monolithic rocks of the Southwest Edge to a 15-meter wall, pass it head-on through a cleft. From the wall, 60–80 m up and to the right along a snow-covered inclined ledge, bypass the pre-summit ascent and ascend steep rocks of average difficulty on the left side of a narrow 40–50-meter couloir to the Southwest ridge. Along the simple 60–80-meter ice-and-snow (cornices) Southwest ridge, ascend to the summit of Inguri. From the initial bivouac on the Upper Inguri Plateau 12–14 hours.

130. Lakutsa via the West Ridge — slope (the route is combined, category 2B, fig. 20, 22). From the village of Jabiashi upstream along the trail on the left bank of the Tsanner River. Go around the tongue of the Tsanner Glacier and the first stage of the icefall, then descend onto the glacier. Go upstream along the glacier to beneath the second stage of the icefall, which is climbed on the left side. Then traverse the glacier up and to the right and approach the icefall of the Nagebski Glacier. Having climbed the icefall, exit onto the upper plateau of the glacier via a glaciated area (closed crevasses) onto the medial moraine — the Nagebskie Ploshchadki. Bivouac. From the village of Jabiashi 10–14 hours. From the moraine, traverse the plateau to beneath the right side of the saddle connecting Tetnuld with