127. Jangitao West via South Face (combined route, Yu. Reformatsky, cat. 5B, fig. 20, 22).
From the "Morena Khalde" base camp, cross the Khalde glacier and approach the narrow snow-ice couloir descending from beneath the main summit of Jangitao. After passing the bergschrund, ascend 150–200 m up the couloir (stones, rockfall, avalanches). Then, ascend 150 m up the snow-covered, moderately difficult rocks of the Lower Rocky Outcrop ("live" stones) to a ledge.
Variant by Ya. Fleyberg and E. Kulgap group. Without entering the couloir, exit onto the rocks on the right side of the South Face's base and ascend moderately difficult and more difficult rocks upwards to the right, bypassing the couloir, to a ledge. From the ledge, ascend 200–250 m up walls, slabs, and "ram's foreheads" of more than moderate difficulty, bypassing the Yellow Tower on the right, to a ledge beneath a wall. From the ledge, ascend 100–120 m up a difficult wall ("live" stones) to the summit of the Lower Middle Rocky Outcrop.
From the outcrop, descend 80–100 m down a snow-ice slope to the base of the Right Rocky Outcrop. Ascend 200–220 m up moderately difficult rocks in the center of the outcrop ("live" stones) to its summit, and then ascend a 30–40-meter steep snow-ice slope to beneath the Upper Rocky Outcrop. Ascend 150–200 m up more than moderately difficult, partly difficult rocks in the center of the outcrop to a snowy ridge on the outcrop's summit. Bivouac. 12–15 hours from the base camp.
From the bivouac, ascend 300–350 m up a snow-ice slope, then 80–100 m up a narrow snow-ice couloir between the walls of the Black Tower on the right and the "Tooth" on the left to a col.
Then:
- Ascend 100–120 m up moderately difficult rocks and a snow-ice slope to a col behind the Black Tower.
From there:
- Ascend 200–250 m up a steep snow-ice ridge-slope with rock outcrops;
- then, ascend 120–150 m up an icy rocky couloir;
- exit onto a narrow snow-ice col on the South Ridge, where a bivouac is set up.
12–14 hours from the previous bivouac.
From the col, ascend a simple, destroyed, and snow-covered 200–250-meter rocky South Ridge (cornices) to the summit of Jangitao West. 1–2 hours from the bivouac.
- Jangitao West via South Ridge (combined route, O. Khazaradze, cat. 5B, fig. 20, 22). From the "Morena Khalde" base camp, cross the Khalde glacier and approach the right side of the broad triangular base of the South Ridge of Jangitao West. To the left of the hanging glacier's rockfall, 60 m to the right of the waterfall, ascend 40–60 m up difficult and more than moderately difficult walls, slabs, and corners through a randkluft to a steep snowy slab — a ledge. Traverse 100–150 m left along the slab-ledge. Cross the waterfall's stream and approach an angle-couloir. Ascend 350–400 m up steep rocks of moderate and more than moderate difficulty with short difficult walls and snow-ice sections on the left side of the angle-couloir (stones, "live" stones) to a flat area on the Left Ridge of the triangle. Bivouac. 10–14 hours from the base camp.
From the flat area:
- Ascend 150–200 m up a steep snow-ice couloir of more than moderate difficulty or rocks on its right or left side (stones, "live" stones) to a flat area.
- Then, ascend 250–300 m up a steep snow-ice ridge-slope, moderately difficult rocks ("live" stones), slabs, and an oblique snowy ledge to a flat area.
Bivouac. 10–12 hours from the previous bivouac.
From the flat area, ascend 400–500 m up a sharp snow-covered rocky South Ridge of moderate difficulty, overcoming jandarms en route, bypassing a tower on the right, to a col. Bivouac on a snowy slope behind the col. 8–10 hours from the previous bivouac.
From the bivouac, ascend a 50–60-meter ascent, then ascend a destroyed and snow-covered 200–250-meter rocky South Ridge (cornices) to the summit of Jangitao West. 10–12 hours from the previous bivouac.