REPORT

on the first ascent of Peak Dankov (5982 m) via the Southwest wall, announced in the championship of the Armed Forces of the USSR on mountaineering in the 1972 season

Team: SKA SAVO

August 1972 Team captain — A. Ilyinsky, B. Gulnev Team coach — L. Kiselev Alma-Ata, 1972

1. Characteristics of the Region

The West Kok-Shaal-Tau ridge is oriented in the latitudinal direction. To the south, it is adjacent to the Takla-Makan desert, and to the north, it is bounded by the powerful mountain ranges of Terskey-Alatau, Boroldoi, and Jetym (Fig. 1).

Ascent Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. Tian Shan, Western Kokshaal-Tau ridge, p. Kyzyl Asker.
3. Peak Kyzyl Asker 5842 m, via the center of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed — 6B category of complexity, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1490 m, wall part 1170 m, wall part length 1280 m, average steepness of the wall part 69–71° 4350–4800 — 82° 4800–5400 — 73–76° 5400–5550 — 45–50°
6. Pitons driven:

2014 Russian Alpinism Championship

High-altitude technical class Report on the ascent of the Moscow Federation of Alpinism and Climbing team to Kyzyl-Asker peak (5842 m) via the center of the Southeast wall "War and Peace," first ascent, approximately 6B category. Senior coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Team leader: Nilov S.A. Moscow 2014

Kyzyl-Asker via the center of the Southeast wall "War and Peace"

Ascent Details

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent region: Tian Shan, Western Kok-Shaal-Too

MINISTRY OF SPORTS, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY ALPINISM FEDERATION

2016 Russian Championship in Alpinism

Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents

Report

On the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory: Peak Kyzyl-Asker 5842 m via the center of the southeast wall, "Kop'e" route Proposed grade:

• 6B category of difficulty
• First ascent Krasnoyarsk 2016

Russian Championship in Alpinism High-Altitude Technical Class 2018

Report

On ascending peak Kyzyl-Asker via the central spur of the southeast wall — "Franco-Belgian" variant. By the team from St. Petersburg. 2nd ascent. Proposed 6B category of complexity. From July 25 to August 3, 2018. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Team leader: Nagaev R.R. Team members:

• Matinyan A.A.
• Trikozov V.M. St. Petersburg, 2018

Ascent Details

Report

On the first ascent of the St. Petersburg team to the summit of Kyzyl-Asker, 5842 m via the South Ridge (approximately 6B category) Team Leader: Evgeny G. Murin Team Member: Ilya N. Penyayev Coach: Tatyana I. Timoshenko St. Petersburg 2018 Climbing Passport

1. General Information 1.1 Murin Evgeny G. Master of Sports

Ascent to the peak of Maron from the north (2A cat. difficulty)

From the camp located on a flat gravel site in front of the peak Iсследователей and Чон-Турасу, we head through the ridges of old lateral moraines to the NNE ridge of the peak. x) Description compiled by A. Perelman. The ridge itself, starting from the snowy part downwards, is even and only has a dip in one place, shaped like an inverted letter "П". The ridge is bordered on both sides by sheer cliffs. On the eastern side, a talus slope stretches under the ridge, while on the western side lies the Maron glacier. We skirt the ridge from the north along a steep, rocky, grassy slope (45–50°). It's best to ascend gradually, without descending to the grassy clearing with a cirque in the Chon-Turasu valley. The stream flowing from the Maron glacier remains to the right of the path in a canyon. After 300 m of ascent, we reach the lower, flat part of the cirque. The stream flows between boulders. To the left are grassy slopes (under the ridge), while to the right, a long and narrow moraine begins. The moraine goes to the left, southwest. Between the moraine and the foot of the wall, a 300 m wide tongue begins. The tongue extends under the surface moraine. To the right of the moraine, a large talus cirque opens up, with a pass saddle visible in its upper part. The moraine abuts a rock at its upper end, which is quite weathered and crumbling. The glacier in this area widens to 500–600 m. It's heavily littered, covered in dirt, rocks, and sand, and is crisscrossed by streams. Further on, the rock expands into a low rocky spur, apparently descending from the peak Февральской революции. At the lower part of the rock, at a height of two meters, there's a small, very even, sandy and pebbly platform. It's well-protected from the wind and dry. We hammer in several pitons and set up a tent on ice axes. The approach to the overnight stay took less than 5 hours.

I. High-altitude category

2. Central Tien Shan, Kokshaal-Tau ridge
3. Peak Neru via the left part of the northeast face
4. Proposed 6th category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain – 2430 m, route length – 2960 m Average steepness of the main part of the route – 55° (4300–6744), including 360 m of 6th category of difficulty
6. Pitons hammered: rock 65, bolts – 0, protection 27,

An isolated high peak in the spur between the middle parts of the Ototash and Nalivkin glaciers. The Pik Piramidy is separated from Obzorny peak by the P-2 pass. The summit is completely snow-ice, rock outcrops are rare even on the ridges. The ascent to the summit from the Ototash glacier takes 8–10 hours and is made along the indistinct southwestern counterfort.

ASCENT TO PIK OBZORNY FROM THE WEST (2B category)

From the camp located in the upper part of the Ototash glacier, we set out at 5:00 am. We cross the two-kilometer width of the glacier through deep snow and begin the ascent head-on. Gradually, the ice begins to emerge from under the snow, so we move to the right (to the south). At this point, the peak drops to the glacier with a steep rocky wall - the path lies along the edge formed by the cirque from the south and the glacier sliding down from the summit. Sections of uncomplicated rocks alternate with deep snow, only occasionally there are sections of ice — we try to bypass them. We move connected, but the movement is mostly simultaneous. Only at the very end of the rib, when reaching the snow dome of the summit — 2 ropes of interesting, but uncomplicated rock climbing along a not steep snowy wall.

Passport

1. High-altitude category
2. Tian-Shan, Inylchek gorge
3. Pobeda Eastern peak (7060 m) via the north face
4. Category 6B assumed, first ascent
5. Height difference 2000 m, length — 2560 m (face)
6. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories — 2540 m Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (5000–7000 m), including 6th category difficulty — 92° (6170–6180 m), 90° (5180–5200 m, 5830–5865 m, 6022–6040 m, 6215–6250 m, 6363–6380 m, 6945–6955 m), 80° (5055–5070 m, 5142–5160 m, 5630–5785 m, 5885–6000 m, 6930–6945 m), 75° (6965–7000 m), 70° (5800–5818 m).
7. Pitons driven | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |