Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3.50 Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain massif, Nyrdvomen-Shor stream valley
2. Name of the summit: 1134 (Raiiz Northern) height: 1134 m, route: via the southwest slope.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 1B cat. diff., PP.
4. Nature of the route — winter.
5. Height difference of the route: 728 m
6. Length of the route: 2500 m
7. Length of sections with the highest cat. diff.:

Ascent Passport

prot. No. 1 dated 10/XI–92, p. 11, p.t., 2A l/s. Znat'iv I. Ascent class — snow and ice 2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains 3. Peak, its height, and route — Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr, via the snow and ice "Avalanche" couloir on the Wall of Mt. M. Vudyavrchorr, 1068.2 m. 4. Expected difficulty category — 2A cat./diff. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m. walls Length of sections, cat. diff.

Federation of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Ice Climbing of St. Petersburg

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Maly Vudyavrchorr via the first counterfort of the eastern wall (previously climbed by Shumilov O.I., 1992)

St. Petersburg, 2011. Ascent Passport

1. Murmansk region, Khibiny.
2. Maly Vudyavrchorr, 1068 m, via the first counterfort of the eastern wall (Shumilov O.I., 1992).
3. 4A category of difficulty.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 550 m.

Murmansk Region Alpinism Federation

Report

on the ascent to the summit Bolshoy Vudyavrchorr via the eastern ridge on April 13, 2019 (first ascent - Vernus T.V., 2003, route classified as 1B)

Ascent Passport

1. Murmansk region, Khibiny.
2. Maly Vudyavrchorr, 1068 m, via the Eastern ridge (Vernus T.V., 2003). 1B category of difficulty.
3. Nature of the route: snow
4. Height difference: 700 m

Route on Vudyavrcorr (1B) via the left part of the right bastion in the wall, 4A ("chestnaya devushka")

View from below: the route line, pitches, and belay stations. The idea to go on this climb during the winter season had been ripening for a long time. The description had been lying in my folder since last year. Back then, the conditions were bad, and we didn't end up doing it. This year, everything was different. I immediately decided that we would go calmly, with processing, over 2 days. The route was well-suited for this:

• up to R9, almost everything is on snow;
• then a cave;
• further, 6.5 ropes — the rock part. Moreover, it was highly motivating that the report was promised to be published in St. Petersburg: there was no need to rack our brains over who to take, with whom to meet, and on which routes — we could work calmly. As we were gathering, adjustments were made: the team composition changed and shrunk, but overall, nothing prevented us from starting the route. On April 5, we climbed the Avalanche Couloir. We examined the route from below and above, took photos. The first impression: there's a lot of snow. But there's no pronounced overhanging snow above this part of the bastion.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent class — ice and snow. 2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains. 3. Peak, its height, and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via "Zigzag" couloir on the wall of Takhtarvumchorr ridge, 1154 m. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A category difficulty. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m. Length of sections, category difficulty:

• I — 500 m
• II — 500 m
• III — 100 m Average slope: overall 50°

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — combined.
2. Ascent area — Khibiny Mountains.
3. Peak, its height and route — Takhtarvumchorr ridge, via the "Otkola" couloir to the Takhtarvumchorr ridge crest, 1143.5 m.
4. Expected difficulty category — 3A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m. Walls: Length of sections, cat. diff.:
   • 2 — 151
   • 3 — 500

DESCRIPTION

First ascent to the peak of Akademik Kalesnik via the buttress of the eastern wall, approximately category 3B difficulty. From the base camp, located on the upper forest boundary, on the right (orographically) bank of the Amanauz River, ascend the gorge through thickets of birch, willow, raspberry, and rhododendrons. After the vegetation ends, cross to the left (orographically) bank of the Amanauz River. Then, with a gradual gain in altitude, move towards the sharp black moraine. Before reaching it, turn sharply to the right and move towards the gap in the "ram's foreheads". Ascend a wide couloir with scree and a stream to the tongue of the glacier. The glacier tongue is at an altitude of 2700–2750 m. Then, exit to the right, beyond the rocky ridge, gaining altitude, and reach a snowy slope with a steepness of 35–45°. Move straight up this snowy slope for 400 m, then exit to the left through the rocky ridge onto the glacier. Then, ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope of the glacier for 600 m on crampons. The slope's steepness is 50–55°. Move in rope teams, using the entire rope! The slope leads to the upper plateau of the glacier. The altitude of the upper plateau is 3000 m. Then, traverse 500 m across the glacier towards the wall of peak Akademik Kalesnik. The slope's steepness increases after the first 500 m and reaches 15–20° for the next 500 m. The last 100 m have a sharply increasing steepness, reaching 50–55°. In front of the wall, there is a very wide randkluft, which is a serious obstacle on the way to the wall. It is necessary to descend into the randkluft and then start working on the wall at a depth of 8–10 m from the upper edge of the randkluft.

Passport

Ascent

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Layub, 2998 m via the eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4–6.
5. Route characteristics: length of sections: R0–R1 — 450 m; R2–R3 — 230 m; R4–R5 — 640 m; R5–R6 — 320 m. elevation gain 1000 m; average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven — for belay — for exceptional circumstances.

The summit of PESHTERA is 3070 m and is located in the North-Eastern spur, running from the junction near the summit of Velbashi (3243 m). It rises like a rocky pyramid above the valley of the left tributary of the Sofia River, which flows into the latter near the "Syrzavod" glade. To the northwest of PESHTERA, separated by a col with an absolute height of 2800 m, are the rocky bastions of the summit named "60th anniversary of KChAO" (2970 m). Both summits are visible from the "Syrzavod" glade, where the base camp was located during the winter alpinism event (see orographic scheme, photo ©). The 3070 m summit, as an object of first ascent, was proposed by the coaching council of the federation to a group of athletes under the leadership of R.A. Gorda. The only acceptable approach from the point of view of avalanche safety was the eastern spur of the NE ridge, descending from the Eastern pre-summit of the "60-let KChAO" peak (consultations with candidate of geographical sciences, avalanche specialist VGI in Nalchik, Mr. Runich A.V.). From the "Syrzavod" glade with an absolute height of 1930 m, descent to the Sofia River and in the area of the mouth of its left tributary - crossing the river in the direction of the Eastern spur, leading to the NE ridge of the "60 let KChAO" summit. Along the spur, overgrown with forest in the lower part, straight up, leaving avalanche-prone slopes on the right and left. Having gone beyond the forest boundary, continue to move along the watershed line to a group of separate trees and further - to the last spruce, from which the rocks of the spur begin. The mentioned spruce is visible from the "Syrzavod" glade. Further along the wide rocky spur - exit to the junction point of the NE ridge, having a mark of 2590 m (660 m height difference). Here is the starting point of the route (2-3 hours of ascent along a pre-organized snow trail).

Route Description