Federation of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Ice Climbing of St. Petersburg

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Maly Vudyavrchorr via the first counterfort of the eastern wall (previously climbed by Shumilov O.I., 1992)

St. Petersburg, 2011. Ascent Passport

1. Murmansk region, Khibiny.
2. Maly Vudyavrchorr, 1068 m, via the first counterfort of the eastern wall (Shumilov O.I., 1992).
3. 4A category of difficulty.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 550 m.

Route length: 800 m. Length of sections:

• 1st category of difficulty — 80 m
• 2nd category of difficulty — 90 m
• 3rd category of difficulty — 130 m
• 4th category of difficulty — 65 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route 70°

6. Pitons left on the route:

Total — 1 (channel, for control tour). Pitons used on the route:

• Total number of placements — 20
• Total number of artificial points of support (AIDS) used — 6

7. Team's walking hours: 14 hours, 1 day.
8. Leader:

Balagurin Sergey — 2nd sports category. Participants: Fyodorov Andrey Igorevich — 2nd sports category.

10. Departure for the route: 4:30, April 6, 2011.

Reaching the summit: 15:30, April 6, 2011. Return to base camp: 18:00, April 6, 2011.

11. Organization: training camp of the Federation of Alpinism, Rock Climbing, and Ice Climbing of St. Petersburg.

    Tactical actions of the team

The route was completed in accordance with the tactical plan. The plan provided for passing the route without prior reconnaissance. The route consists of two parts: the lower part, up to the exit to the large snow shelf, and the upper part, after the shelf, where it connects with the route of 3A category of difficulty via the first counterfort of the eastern wall of Maly Vudyavrchorr.

Time marks:

• 4:30 (August 6, 2011) — departed from base camp.
• 6:30 — approached the route.
• 9:30 — approached the R3 section, began its passage. At the bottom of the chimney, left a control tour, a plastic can on a hook.
• 12:00 — reached the large snow shelf in the middle part of the route. Caught up with the UTS FASiL SPb team, which was following the 3A category route.
• 15:30 — reached the summit.
• 15:50 — descended to the Geografov pass.
• 18:00 — returned to base camp.

The weather was favorable for the passage, only on the last rope did strong snow and wind start. We consider the route relatively safe. Route diagram in UIAA symbols. Maly Vudyavrchorr

General view. Route thread

View of the first and second counterforts of the eastern wall of Maly Vudyavrchorr

R0–R1 section

R1–R2 section

R2–R3 section

Control tour under the chimney

• Exit to the large snow shelf
• Connection with the 3A category route.

Ahead is the FASiL team working on 3A

On the summit.