Brief Description of the Route Approach

The path from the base camp at the confluence of the Kurgan and Suichikty rivers follows the road down to the lower bridge. After crossing the bridge over the Kyrgyz-Ata river, follow the trail leading into the Beketty gorge. Continue along the trail that runs along the bottom of the gorge until a steep ascent to the moraine. Then proceed along the moraine to a scree slope, orienting towards the "finger" gendarme. It takes 3.5 hours to walk from the base camp to the start of the route. 4150 m (60th anniversary of the UASSR) via the E ridge. Category 3B difficulty, 700 m, 45°, 21 pitches, 12 hours. 6/XI-80. R. Galeev, S. Bochenkov, S. Suntsov, V. Teletsyn. Map of the ascent area Table of main characteristics of the ascent route

LOCATION

Peak P.Lumumba is located in the northern spur of the Alay Range (South Tian Shan or Pamir-Alay) in the upper reaches of the Gavmen (Galyuan) River. Its height is 4405 m. The attached diagram clearly defines its location.

APPROACHES

From the town of Haydarkan, located in the western part of the Frunze district of Osh region within the basin of the Sokh River, a small but powerful vehicle (e.g., GAZ-69) can drive up the Gavian (Golyuan) River valley for about 14 km. Further:

• The road turns into a trail.
• We ascend along the trail on the right or left orographic bank of the Gavman River to the moraine, where we set up the base camp. Around the campsite, there is a juniper forest on the slopes.

ASCENT ROUTE

PASSPORT

Ascents

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak — Pik Vladivostok (4257 m) via the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 687 m; length of category 2 sections — 282 m; » » category 3 — 303 m;

Rocky island east of the initial central one

19. Vostochnaia Siam from the east, route 2A cat. dif., fig. 6

From the base camp, cross Siam and start ascending to the glacier cirque below the peaks of Vostochnaia Siam and Yuzhnaia Siam. The ascent follows a stream that flows into Siam. After 1.5–2 hours, reach the glacier moraine. Then, proceed onto the glacier and ascend to the col between the peaks of Sugur and Vostochnaia Siam. The col is covered with compacted talus. From the col, ascend via snow, which becomes steeper (up to 50°) in the upper section. Stay on the left side of the snowfield and reach the base of a gendarme on the ridge. Traverse the gendarme via a ledge, using difficult rock climbing on the right, until reaching a couloir. Ascend the couloir almost to the top of the gendarme. Then, use moderately difficult rock climbing to reach the ridge. Two long, loose couloirs lead to the pre-summit ridge. Take the right one. From the ridge, use a good ledge on the right to approach the base of the right couloir. The couloir is rockfall-prone! Traverse the couloir on the left, near the rocks, occasionally stepping onto moderately difficult rock formations. The couloir makes a sharp turn to the right, then to the left, and leads to the pre-summit ridge. Ascend the ridge using rock climbing to reach the first summit. The summit is a massive boulder leaning towards Siam. Then, continue along the ridge, crossing a col, to reach the next peak — the Main summit, which is almost the same height. Descend via the ascent route. The climb takes 9 hours.

55. Yakum from the West, 16 cat. sl. route, fig. 29.

From the bivouac, ascend via the left couloir towards the summit. The main massif of the summit has characteristic rust-colored rocks, and to its left, the western ridge has grey rocks. Then, turning left up the slope, ascend to the western ridge of the summit. On the grassy slopes, there are individual rock outcrops and many loose stones. The oblique rust-colored rocks of the summit remain to the right. On the slopes, there are dry riverbeds. Follow one of them, and then ascend via a wide scree-filled couloir to the ridge. Travel along the ridge is over rocks and snow. Short, steep sections are traversed with simultaneous belay. The ascent to the summit is via easy, crumbling rocks. The descent from the summit is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 3–4 hours. Fig. 29.

View (34 a0) with CAs nC 2/mi–771. The summit of Urech is located in the northern spur of the nodal peak of Aurondag of the Zeravshan ridge, and more precisely, it closes this spur from the north. To the south, v. Urech slightly rises above the ridge (150 m) and the ascent to it is quite simple. To the west, northwest, north, and east from the summit, ridges diverge. According to the information from KSP in the summer of 1977, the following routes were climbed:

• eastern ridge
• western ridge Both routes are not classified, and according to the estimates of the groups that made

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

From the base camp, descend to the confluence of the Ak-su and Kara-su rivers and cross two bridges to a large meadow. It takes 1 hour from the base camp. Then, proceed up the right gorge along the scree slopes of the Northeast ridge. Exit through a steep scree couloir to the saddle of the Northeast ridge under the base of the Northeast wall. Here, a tent can be set up on a scree shelf. It takes 3 hours from the base camp. Map of the area. Route diagram. In UIAA symbols on p. Atabekova (4437) via N.E. wall 4A cat. diff. (landmark).

Climbing area map Route diagram in UIAA notation, sect. R0–R15:

• R0: 70°, 20 m, 4
• R1: 75°, 40 m, 4
• R2: 70°, 60 m, 4
• R3: 75°, 40 m, 5
• R4: 85°, 10 m, 5, 6
• R5: 70°, 100 m, 4

The ascent from the base camp, located on the right bank of the Kara-su River, goes along the main slope towards the rock ridge to the left of the North Peak 3800. The approach to the start of the route (the foot of the West Wall of the peak) takes 1.5 hours.

Brief description of the route sections

Section R0–R1. Talus-filled couloir leading to the buttress. Bypass the twin pinnacle on the right. 150 m, 35°. Section R1–R2. Along the damaged rocky buttress, exit to the North Ridge to the right of the ridge. 200 m, 40°–50°, diff. cat. II. Section R2–R3. The destroyed rocky ridge leads to the North Peak.