
The ascent from the base camp, located on the right bank of the Kara-su River, goes along the main slope towards the rock ridge to the left of the North Peak 3800. The approach to the start of the route (the foot of the West Wall of the peak) takes 1.5 hours.
Brief description of the route sections
Section R0–R1. Talus-filled couloir leading to the buttress. Bypass the twin pinnacle on the right. 150 m, 35°. Section R1–R2. Along the damaged rocky buttress, exit to the North Ridge to the right of the ridge. 200 m, 40°–50°, diff. cat. II. Section R2–R3. The destroyed rocky ridge leads to the North Peak. 400 m, 35°, diff. cat. II. Before reaching the peak, there is a series of crevasses that can be passed with free climbing. 60 m, 50–60°, diff. cat. II. Section R3–R4. Ridge between the North and Main peaks 3800. 150–200 m, 10°, diff. cat. II.