Malaya Songuti

The Malaya Songuti peak (3800 m) is located in the eastern part of the Tsey range between the Pik Burevestnik - Tseysky peak to the east and the Tsey peak to the west. From the southern side:

• The rock walls of Malaya Songuti are heavily destroyed
• The walls are dissected by deep, narrow couloirs
• Rockfalls often occur towards the Tsey gorge From the northern side:
• The rock towers of Malaya Songuti rise beautifully above the Maly Songuti glacier
• The Maly Songuti glacier feeds the Turye lake

157. Songuti Malaya via the Western ridge, 4A cat. difficulty (A. Durnov, A. Zolotarev, Z. Kritskaya, S. Makarova, A. Turchin, August 15, 1952, during a traverse from west to east).

Fig. 30 — at the barob, SSKauuny, 15. The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or the village of Dzanaga (group of 420 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the northern slopes of Uvarov peak, is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses) along the snowy plateau approach the northern slope of Uvarov peak. From the plateau, along the snowy slope reach the bergschrund and, overcoming it along a snow bridge - Along the snowy, almost horizontal ridge of the shoulder (cornices), then along the sharp steep snowy ridge (cornices - insurance) exit to the third shoulder. From here along the gently sloping, wide, местами острому (кар­ни­зы), then along the steep left-snowy Northern

Fig. 32 143. Ularg (4358 m) via the East Ridge (combined route by Mitchell, category III, Fig. 32). The path from the Tsейsky District base camp (group of 4–8 people) to the Artsyshevsky Peak with the initial bivouac at the Volginsky bivouac is described in route 142. From the Artsyshevsky Peak, descend along the snowy slope of the East Ridge (cornices) to under the Kvadratny Dzhandarm. Bypass the dzhandarm on the left along the destroyed, crumbly rocks. Behind it, exit into the couloir onto the col under the II dzhandarm and bypass it on the right with a traverse (20°) and along the snowy slope (with belay). Further along the sharp snowy ridge (cornices), approach the dzhandarm "Vilka", pass it in the center through the fork, and descend to the col of the East Ridge. From the col, ascend 100–120 m upwards along the narrow, sometimes steep snowy East Ridge or along its left side (cornices — piton belay). Along the heavily destroyed, simple, sometimes snow-covered rocks of the East Ridge or its left side, ascend to the summit of Ularg. From the Volginsky bivouac, it takes 5–6 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The duration of the route is 3 days.

Fig. 27 112. Peak TsDSA (4477 m) via North Ridge (route is combined, cat. 2B, fig. 27). The path from the CSP of Tsey area or from the village Dzhinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the saddle of Uilpatinsky Pass with initial bivouacs on the platforms of the Western Ridge of Bivouachnaya Peak or in the hut of the Southern branch of Tsey Glacier is described in the routes:

• 83
• 103

156. Tsey (4140 m) via the Northeast slope (snow-ice route, category 1B difficulty level, fig. 33). From the Tsey district's KSP (group of 4–20 people), head down to the highway and follow it down the Tsey gorge. Before the last turn towards the village of Verkhny Tsey, turn left off the highway. Then:

• Follow the path along the stream in the hollow
• Then along the ridge of the grassy moraine past the cemetery
• Ascend to the grassy areas — the initial bivouac site for ascending Sadon and Spartak-Tsey peaks. From the areas, ascend along the path on the grassy, then scree ridge of the counterfort. Continue moving up along the scree, then along simple, broken (with protection) rocks of the counterfort to the Eastern ridge of Sadon peak. Here, turn left and follow the simple, gentle, heavily broken rocks of the Eastern ridge to reach the summit of Sadon. From Tsey district's KSP, 4–6 hours. Descend from Sadon peak along the snowy slope on the right side of the Tsey ridge to the saddle connecting Sadon with Spartak-Tsey peak, then left to a small snowy plateau. Cross the plateau down to the right and along the right side of the snowy slope, exit to a wide rock shelf on the left side of the ridge connecting Sadon and Nameless peaks, located on the North ridge — a spur of Sadon. Follow the shelf under Nameless peak to reach a large scree. Here, turn left and descend along the scree to a small, unnamed cirque glacier. From here, move left and down. Bypassing the base of the Western ridge of Burevestnik-Tsey peak under the rock walls, ascend behind it along the scree left and up to the areas near Turye Lake. Route:
• Descend along the snowy slope on the right side of the Tsey ridge to the saddle between Sadon and Spartak-Tsey
• Move left to a small snowy plateau

Route Description for Climbing Arkhon Maly Peak (3942 m)

Category II-B difficulty. The peak is located in the Teplinskaya group of the Front Range of the Greater Caucasus, on the northeastern spur of Kolota, immediately adjacent to the Arkhon Glavny peak (4253 m) to the southwest. The first ascent to Arkhon Maly was made by a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze led by N. Alchiev on May 29, 1966, from the Fiagdon valley via the southwest ridge. Day I. Traveling from Ordzhonikidze through the Kurtatinskoye gorge to the confluence of the Fiagdon and Dzamarashdon rivers takes 2 hours 30 minutes. Cross the Fiagdon River via a bridge near a watchtower and follow the trail up to the first hanging valley (on the left orographic slope of the gorge). The ascent proceeds up a grassy slope, which becomes quite steep at the top, leading to a moraine hill. The moraine ridge is sharp, with avalanche debris from Glavny Arkhon on both sides. On the first day, the ascent reaches an absolute height of 3000 m. At the junction of the moraine and the slope, a bivouac is set up on a small site. The ascent to the bivouac takes 3 hours. Day II. Depart at 5:00 AM. After proceeding 100 m along the moraine, turn right and ascend the slope to the eastern buttress of the northeastern ridge of Arkhon. Upon reaching the ridge of the buttress:

• form a rope team;
• move up the ridge.

The summit is located in the Tepli group of the Front Range of the Greater Caucasus, in the northern "Saw" of Kolota (4168 m), being the northernmost peak of the spur. The first ascent to Pik Severny was made from the Tsaziu-kom gorge, with an exit to the eastern ridge of the Peak, on June 12, 1966, by a group of climbers from Ordzhonikidze, consisting of 7 people (1st category, the rest - higher category) led by V. Meshcheryakov, with R. Proskuryakov as the instructor-observer.

Day 1

From Ordzhonikidze, they drive by car along the Gizel highway to the village of Dzuarikau, after which they turn into the Kurtatinsky gorge. They pass through the villages:

• Lash,
• Khidikus,
• Khariskin and reach the bridge over the Tsaziu-don river, at the confluence of the latter with the Fiagdon river. They ascend along the left bank of the Tsaziu-don river, following the trail, which after about twenty minutes of walking leads to a small bridge over Tsaziu-don. They cross the bridge and follow the trail along a fairly wide terrace of the gorge, overgrown with bushes and dwarf birches. After 2 hours and 30 minutes of walking along the trail along the river, they exit the bush zone and move along an alpine meadow. Near a small mountain lake, a bivouac can be conveniently set up.

Day 2

Alpinist Sports Club "KASKAD"

Report

On the ascent to Tepli Glavnaya peak 4431 m from the Southwest by the couloir of the Western ridge, presumably 3B cat. diff. Variant of the route by A. ZyuziN. Tepli Glavnaya by the North-West ridge, 3B cat. diff., 1938, number in the classifier 2.8.85. Kirkitadze D.A. Dyakonov B.V.

Central Caucasus, October 2013

Climbing participants

1. Leader: Kirkitadze David Amiranovich, II sports category, Kambiileevskoe village. Address: Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, Kambiileevskoe village, Yuri Kuchiev St., 62. Phone: +7 961 822-28-22.
2. Participant: Dyakonov Boris Valerievich, II sports category, Beslan.

General Description of the Peak and its Location

The Midagrabin Plateau area is adjacent to the Kazbek high-altitude region, located to the west in the eastern part of the Central Caucasus and is entirely within the North Ossetian ASSR. The most significant peaks in the area are giants such as:

• Jimarai-khokh
• Shau-khokh
• Suatisi-khokh
• Zeigalan-khokh
• Tsiti-khokh
• Khirkhaten

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: