129. Bocos East (4050 m) via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A, Figure 29). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak or on the Central branch of Karaugom plateau directly below the peak is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses) via the Central branch plateau, approach the right side of the long snowy saddle connecting the peak Burevestnik - Karaugomsky on the left with the Bocos massif on the right. From the plateau:

• Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge
• Ascend 70-90 m up the steep snowy slope (protection) to the right side of the saddle (cornices) On the saddle, turn right and exit onto the East ridge of the Bocos massif. Along the sharp (cornice) snowy East ridge (protection) 150-200 m upwards to the wall of the black gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the right. Then, along the steep snowy ridge-slope (protection), ascend to the ridge of the massif. Further, along a simple wide ridge, ascend 40-60 m to the peak Vostochny Bocos.

131. Bokos West via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2A, Fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzhinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bnuvachnaya peak or on the snow plateau of the Central branch under the Bokos massif is described in route 83. From the platforms (closed crevices) along the snow plateau of the Central branch, approach the saddle of the ridge connecting the massifs of Bokos on the left and VTsSPs - Karaugomsky on the right. From the plateau, ascend a steep 50-60-meter snow slope to the bergschrund and overcome it via a snow bridge. Further up the steep icy-snow slope, the ascent is 80-100 m to the saddle (with belay).

132. Bokos Western (4060 m) via Western Ridge (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 29). The path from the CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevasses), approach the wide leftmost snow couloir rising to the Western ridge of the Western Bokos peak, to the right (east) of the Big rocky gendarme. From the plateau, ascend a steep 120-150-meter snow slope to the bergschrund and cross it in the middle part via a snow bridge. Continue up a steep snow slope (avalanche risk) for 150-200 m to the Western Ridge saddle (belay required). On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snow-covered rocks of the Western Ridge, then a steep 80-100-meter ice and snow slope (running belay) to the Northern Ridge (cornices). Turn right here and:

• ascend a sharp, steep 40-50-meter Northern Ridge (cornices)
• then ascend simple, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks to reach the "Western Bokos" summit. From the plateau - 3-4 hours. Descend via the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976. BUTSP

134. Bocos Western — Eastern (combined route by V. Miklashevsky, category III of complexity). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Western Bocos is described in routes 131, 132. From the Western summit, there is a small descent along the snowy Eastern ridge in the direction of the Central summit. Then, along the occasionally snow-covered simple rocks of the wide, long, and destroyed ridge with numerous, straightforward, несложными gendarmes, approach under the sharp Central gendarme. From under it:

• descend 30–40 m along steep rocks (loose stones — piton protection) to the right;
• then, along ledges, bypass the gendarme to exit into a narrow, steep couloir. Along rocks of medium difficulty (many loose stones — piton protection, key point of the route) of the narrow couloir, ascend 30–40 m to the ridge behind the Central gendarme. Along the simple, long, destroyed, and snow-covered rocky ridge, overcoming numerous gendarmes straightforward, reach the summit of Central Bocos. From the Central summit, along the simple ridge, descend to a wide snowy saddle. From the saddle, along the simple snowy, then along the wide, gently sloping Western ridge:
• ascend to the summit of Eastern Bocos. Descent along the Eastern ridge or the Southern slope (see route 129 or 130).

20. Bubis – Songuti, traverse

(combined route, cat. 4B) Ascent to Bubis summit from Tsey–Tbiliski pass via Tbilisa-Mta saddle or by the route of cat. 2B. Descent from Bubis summit to Karaugom pass by the normal route of cat. 2B. From Tsey–Karaugom pass, traverse Double Peak summit (cat. 3B) and the ridge between North Double Peak and Krasnoarmeyets peak via the несложному гребню (easy ridge) of Krasnoarmeyets peak. Descent from Krasnoarmeyets peak by the normal route of cat. 2A and further ascent to Krasnoarmeyets peak by the normal route of cat. 2B. From Krasnoarmeyets peak via an easy rocky ridge to Uilpata-tau peak. From Uilpata-tau peak, descend to Vorobyevsky pass by the route of cat. 4A. From Vorobyevsky pass, ascend to Songuti by the normal route of cat. 4A. Descent from Songuti summit by the ascent route to "Volginskaya nochovka" (by the normal route of cat. 4A).

21. BUBIS — CHANCHAKHI, traverse (combined route, cat. 4B)

Ascent to the summit of Bubis via the normal route (cat. 2B) from the Tsey-Raug pass. Descent from the summit of Bubis along the southeastern snowy ridge to the saddle below the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Ascent up a new slope (40–45°) to the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Descent from the summit of Tbiliza-Mta initially along a gentle (30°) snowy ridge, then down an ice and firn slope (120 m, 70°, piton belay!) to the ridge before a large "gendarme". Bypass the large "gendarme" from the left (in the direction of travel) from the north along a steep (60°) firn slope, followed by an ascent (50 m) onto the ridge. Bypass all encountered "gendarmes" from the right (in the direction of travel) and along a heavily damaged rocky ridge to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass. From the pass, ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi via the normal route (cat. 4B). Descent from the summit of Chanchakhi to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass via the normal route (cat. 4B). When traversing the summit of Chanchakhi in full, the category of the Bubis—Chanchakhi traverse is 5A (approximate).

V. Bubis — Chanchakhi, traverse, 4B cat. dif.

CHANCHAKHI PASS TSEY-CHANCHAHI PASS TSEY — "LILA" Tbilisi BUBIS SOUTHEAST RIDGE EAST SHOULDER DOME Bol. Zh.

Burdzhula

The nodal summit of the Main ridge, Burdzhula (4364 m) stands out sharply against the background of the surrounding low peaks. It is located in the south-western corner of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, between the Anufrikov Peak to the east and Saualhayne to the north-west. At the end of the North ridge - a spur of Burdzhula stands a rocky tower of the Nogkau summit. 139. Burdzhula via the North ridge, Category III complexity (V. Lubenets, V. Radel, August 4, 1946) The path from the CSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga (a group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the eastern slopes of Burdzhula, is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac, approach the first lower col on the left of the North ridge of Burdzhula

204. Kayarta Glavnaya via the South Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the "Adylsu" alp camp to the Shternberg Pass through the Tyutyusu gorge is described in routes 184 and 203. From the pass, turn left and exit onto the rocky South Ridge of Kayarta Glavnaya peak. From here, ascend simple and solid ridge rocks. Bypass the first 30-meter-high gendarme on the right (belay!). Beyond it:

• ascend the severely damaged simple rocky ridge,
• then traverse along the right snowy slope to reach the rocky edge of the South shoulder,
• ascend 50–60 m up the moderately difficult rocks of the edge. Then: