Burdzhula
The nodal summit of the Main ridge, Burdzhula (4364 m) stands out sharply against the background of the surrounding low peaks. It is located in the south-western corner of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, between the Anufrikov Peak to the east and Saualhayne to the north-west. At the end of the North ridge - a spur of Burdzhula stands a rocky tower of the Nogkau summit.
- Burdzhula via the North ridge, Category III complexity (V. Lubenets, V. Radel, August 4, 1946)
The path from the CSP of the Tsey district or from the village of Dzinaga (a group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau, under the eastern slopes of Burdzhula, is described in route 83.
From the initial bivouac, approach the first lower col on the left of the North ridge of Burdzhula along the snowy slope (covered crevasses). Overcoming the bergschrund via a snow bridge, climb a steep ice-snow slope of the left wide couloir (rocky outcrops on the right are prone to rockfall) to the col of the North ridge of Burdzhula (cornice).
At the col, turn left and along the snowy ridge, approach the first rocky ascent of the North ridge. Climb steep, heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty (piton protection) to the first shoulder. From the shoulder, along a gently sloping snowy ridge (cornices), then along a slope gradually turning into a steep icy slope, further along 40-50-meter rocks of medium difficulty ("live" rocks - piton protection) climb to the second shoulder.
Along the snowy, almost horizontal ridge of the shoulder (cornices), then along a sharp steep snowy ridge (cornices - protection), exit to the third shoulder. From here, along a gently sloping, wide, местами sharp (cornices), then along a steep ice-snow North ridge (cornices - piton protection) climb to the summit ridge and along it exit to the summit of Burdzhula. From the initial bivouac on the plateau 6-10 hours.
Descent via the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus),
M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976.
Fig. 30.