Ascent Log

I. Ascent category — rock climbing 2. Region — Western Caucasus 3. Route Bolshoi Nakhar (3780 m) via route 6B cat. diff. 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference 1050 m average steepness 80° length of complex section 740 m 5. Pitons used: rock 290, ice —, bolt 11 6. Total climbing hours 61 h

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol region, Kiчkinekol gorge, section number according to the classification table 2.3
2. Peak 3400 (Raspopova), via the eastern ridge
3. Proposed 2A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: Rocky
5. Height difference of the route: 250 m Route length: 575 m Section lengths:
   • I – 135 m
   • II – 380 m

Report on the First Ascent

To Peak 3400 — Peak Raspopova (Western Caucasus, Uzunkol, August 2010) The ascent was made by climbers from Rostov-on-Don with the goal of naming the previously unnamed peak 3400 after Raspopov Sergey Alekseevich, a Master of Sports, a pioneer of Rostov mountaineering, and a dedicated organizer of mountaineering events and mentor to climbers in the Rostov region.

Contact Information

All inquiries related to the report should be directed to:

• 344029, Rostov-on-Don, ul. Pervoy Konnoy Armii, 4a
• Club of Tourists and Climbers "Planeta"
• Phone +7 (863) 242–35–10, Phone/Fax +7 (863) 223–86–12
• http://www.club-planeta.ru
• e-mail: clubplaneta@aaanet.ru

Trapeziya Peak – 3800 m

Ascent to the Main summit via the wall of the Eastern ridge — category 4A.

Description of the ascent route to the summit

The path from the camp to the upper Trapeziya glacier plateau can be found in the description of category 2A route. Across the plateau to the foot of the Eastern ridge. At the bottom of the snowy slope, cross the bergschrund and continue ascending on snow (55°), 70–80 m, belay! To the base of a 1.5 m rusty streak running through the entire visible massif of rocks left-up-right. Up the rocks (many loose stones!) in the direction of the streak (belay! Pitons!). Along the streak up 140–150 m (pitons!) to an inclined ledge running in the same direction. Along the ledge, 130–140 m to its end (pitons!) at the level of the couloir throat — a control cairn. To the right of the ledge is a couloir — DO NOT ENTER — (stones, avalanches from the pre-summit depression!). From the end of the ledge left-up 180 m (belay! Pitons!) on rocks to a black overhanging wall under the ridge. The wall is a system of snow-ice couloirs separated by steep rocky ridges. Ascent up the rocks “Belay! Very tense climbing! Pitons!”. Behind the wall is an exit to the ridge slabs and along them to a black wet wall on the ridge “control cairn”. Bypass this wall (40 m) to the right along the boundary of rocks and a steep (more than 45°) snow patch and again exit to the snowy ridge (pitons!). Along the steep snowy ridge (80 m, belay!) ascent to the summit. From the base of the Eastern ridge to the summit is 14–16 hours. There are no bivouac sites on the entire route to the summit. Descent from the summit via category 2B route to the bivouac takes 2.5–3 hours. The number of participants in the group is not more than 4 people. Initial bivouac — lake under Trapeziya glacier.

Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• rope — 2 × 40 m;
• expendable cordelette — 10 m;

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus, Uzunkol Valley. Section number in the 1999 classification table - 2.3
2. Trapezia Main via SE wall (3743 m).
3. Proposed 5B category of difficulty. First ascent.
4. Route character - rock.
5. Height difference: from the assault bivouac to the summit: 580 m wall section: 350 m.
6. Length wall section: 430 m.

Report

on traversing 1st, 2nd Western — Eastern peaks of Trezubets 2B category of the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport

	1. General Information
	Full Name, sports rank of the leader	Samofeeva, CMS.
	Full Name, sports rank of participants	Bondarenko A.Yu., Plotnikov I.I., Simonov P.A., Strizhko A.S., no rank.
	Full Name of coach	Popov V.I.
	2. Characteristics of the climbing object

3. Ascent to the summit of Fil'tr from the Burevestnik Pass – category 3A

The path to the Kichkinekol Pass can be found in the description of the category 2B route. From the Kichkinekol Pass, descend to the Zamok glacier plateau and, traversing the snowy slopes below the Fil'tr summit, approach the Burevestnik Pass. When exiting the glacier into a wide, eroded gully, there is a randkluft. Cross it on the right side of the rocks – there is flowstone and snow. Then ascend on the right side of the gully (icy rocks), and in its middle part, transition to the left side, and after 50 m, exit onto the Burevestnik Pass via a steep snowy slope. From the Kichkinekol Pass – 1.5–2 hours. From the pass, ascend to the right along the rocks to the first gendarme, which is bypassed on the left along the boundary between snow and rocks. It is possible to pass it head-on. The second gendarme is bypassed on the right, 10 m away (with protection!). Then proceed through the snow and transition into an icy gully, 60°, 40 m – with protection! Ice screws are required! From the gully, exit onto a steep rocky ascent composed of slabs, 60 m. There are few ledges on this section – protection is necessary! Pitons are required! After the ascent, traverse the ridge on the left along snowy ledges, leading to a short, negative rock wall – 2.5 m. Piton required! Behind the wall, exit onto the ridge, which transitions into a snowy slope (total 160 m) and reach the Fil'tr summit. The cairn is located somewhat to the left and below, on a small rocky outcrop. From the Burevestnik Pass – 2.5–3 hours.

2. Ascent to the summit of Filtr via the northwestern edge Cat. 3B See the path to the bivouac in the description of the Cat. 2B route From the bivouac:

• along the stream on the right-upwards, under the rocks of the NW edge of Filtr peak;
• traverse the snowfield to the right-upwards and then along the slabs and "ram's foreheads" to the gorge (in rope teams!);
• from the gorge, exit to the snowy slope (35–40°) and along it to the rocky outcrop and beyond it along the snowy exit to the ridge. From here:
• left-upwards 330–350 m to the snowy couloir;
• bypass the couloir to the right-upwards via the rocks to a large slab (protection! Hook!);

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category: rock 2. Ascent area: tourist center "Uzungol", Western Caucasus 3. Ascent route: peak CHAT-BASHI 3760 m, northern edge 4. Proposed category difficulty: 4B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 860 m, average steepness 50–55° 6. Pitons driven: — for belay: 32 rock pitons — for creating artificial climbing holds (ITCH): none — ice screws: none

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.