ASCENT DOCUMENTATION 48

1. CATEGORY — TECHNICAL
2. REGION — KICHIK-ALAY ridge (Kurgan (south))
3. PEAK — S.M. TSVILLINGA peak 4326 m, first ascent via the north face (COMB.)
4. PROPOSED difficulty category — 5B
5. Height difference — 910 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 347 m Average steepness — 70°
6. PITS ON: For belaying: rock — 77, for creating artificial anchors (ИТО): rock — 9. Ice — 10. Bolts — (no data)

Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society "TADJIKISTAN"

Alpinist camp "VARZOB". DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "BLIZNETSY" VIA THE NORTHEAST COUNTERFORCE (PAMIR-ALAI, REGION OF THE "VARZOB" ALPLAGER). Dushanbe – 1968

Introduction

To continue exploring the mountain region near the "VARZOB" alpinist camp, and to further the sporting growth of alpinist-discharge holders and instructors, the "VARZOB" alpinist camp organized an ascent to the summit "BLIZNETSY". By participating in ascents to neighboring peaks: "VARZOBSKAYA PILA", "KRYL'YA TADJIKISTANA", instructors from Dushanbe had long been eyeing the northern slopes of "Bliznetsy" — steeply falling walls 1.5–2 km long — in the gorge of the "MAYKHURA" river. It was probably then that the idea of traversing the northeast counterforce of the "BLIZNETSY" peak was born. The peak was named "BLIZNETSY" back in the early days of alpinism in Tajikistan (1952–1953). When viewed from the south, all three elevations of the peak have absolutely identical outlines, while from the north these outlines are lost.

Geographical and Alpinist Characteristics of the Region

The massif that includes the "BLIZNETSY" peak occupies an intermediate position between "TIA-N'SHAN'" and "PAMIR" and is known as "PAMIRO-ALAI".

The ascent category is technically complex. The ascent area is the Gissar Ridge. The summit is Zamin Karor I West along the center of the NW wall. The difficulty category is 6B. Height difference — 1200 m. The length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1175 m. Average steepness — 87.5°. Pitons used: for belay: rock 180, ice —, bolted 17; for creating belay stations: rock 15. Total climbing hours — 56 hours. Number of bivouacs on the route — 4:

• sitting — 2;
• lying — 2. Team members:
• Baychenko Yuri Petrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, team leader;
• Lapshin Leonid Petrovich — Master of Sports;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route. I-st Western peak of Zamyk-Karor (Yaghnob wall) — 4303 m via the shortest path C-3 of the wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6th cat. of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1350 m
   • average steepness — 87°30'
   • length of sections 5–6 cat. of difficulty — 1000 m.

1. Climbing category - rock climbing
2. Climbing area - Pamir-Alay, Hissar mountain range
3. Climbing route - first ascent via the left part of the western wall's couloir, SW peak of Zamin-Karor
4. Climbing characteristics elevation gain - 1200 m average steepness - 86° length of challenging sections - 1001 m
5. Pitons used: rock pitons - 153 chocks - 79

Ascent to the top of Znachkist

from the Siamy circus — 2A cat. dif. The approach to the summit from the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Siamy River passes along the right-hand (in the direction of travel) lateral moraine to the terminal moraine of the glacial circus. The glacier is now absent. The ascent to the moraine and movement along the moraine occurs along a stream, leading to the foot of the summit. The ascent to the summit goes along a wide snow couloir descending from the saddle (Nishon pass between the IV peak of the Siamy Crown and the Znachkist peak). It is recommended to pass through early in the morning and under the cover of the rocks on the left side of the couloir, as stonefall is possible. In the middle part of the couloir: transition to the right, movement along the talus, snow is possible. In the upper part, the couloir opens widely into the slope. The slope is composed of inclined smooth slabs, partially covered with talus. The ascent from the snowfield to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours. To reach the saddle, go left of the first pointed gendarme. Bypassing it on the left and not approaching the second gendarme on this saddle, traverse the slope to the left along the snow. Along the slope, approach a barely noticeable couloir descending from the ridge of the Znachkist peak. The ascent to the ridge goes along the left side of the couloir for 25–30 m and leads to an inclined slab. Traversing it to the right, ascend to the ridge. The further path along the ridge is along rocks of medium difficulty. The length of the section is 80–90 m. The summit is not characteristically pronounced. The ascent from the pass to the summit takes about 1 hour.

Ascent Passport

Climb Category: Rock (Combined) Peak, its height, and ascent route: Bolshoy Igizak via N wall 4100 m (via cleft) Estimated Difficulty Category: 4A (35) Route Characteristics:

• Height difference: 350 m
• Average steepness: 50°
• Length of sections:
  • I: 200 m
  • II: none

ASCENT DOCUMENT (SECOND ASCENT)

1. ASCENT CLASS — TECHNICAL
2. ASCENT REGION — Gissar Ridge, Sangalta area
3. ASCENT ROUTE — Peak Tu 3640 m via SE edge
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 5B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Length 1200 m, height difference 850 m, average steepness 57°. Length of sections P.TR. – 20 m, Ш.TR. – 220 m, 1U – 450 m, U – 500 m. Steepness 83°. Number of driven pitons: for rock belay — 78, wooden wedges — 3.
6. MOVING TIME — 13 hours

Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing II. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Gissarsky Ridge, Tagrich valley III. Peak 4200 via the center of the southeast wall IV. 5B category difficulty, repeat ascent (6th) V. Height difference — 650 m. Length — 1140 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 614 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 84°, including 6 category difficulty — 84° (3580–3750 m) — 87° (3850–4150 m). VI. Pitons used:

General view from the south. Arrows indicate ascent routes. Semenov-Bashi, 3602 m

Via the central bastion of the southern wall. Cat. 3A

From al "Alibek" up along the trail leading to the training slopes of Semenov-Bashi peak. From the rocks up along the grassy slopes in the direction of the southern wall of Semenov-Bashi peak to the large snow circus under the wall. From "Alibek" - 3 hours. Along the snowy slope with a steepness of 25-30° up to the central bastion of the Southern wall (the start of the route is to the right of the red arrow drawn on a light 8-meter rock). Along the rocks first up, then to the right, crossing the couloir, exit under the wall. Along the wall up to a large shelf. Control cairn. From the shelf to the right-up along the system of inner corners, shelves, and ridges - exit to a loose mulda and along it to the "roof". Along the easy rocks of the roof - exit to the Eastern ridge and along it to the left to the summit. From the start of the route 6-8 hours. Descent via route 1B (see below). Recommendations:

• Group size: 6 people
• Initial bivouac: under the Southern wall