Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class 2. Ascent Region 3. Peak, its height, route taken: KhUGGDUM Peak, 3850 m, West Ridge and North Crest 4. Proposed category of difficulty 5. Route characteristics: 6B category. Height difference. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty. Average steepness: West Ridge - North Crest 6. Number of pitons used: rock, ice, bolted. Number of placed protection gear used 7. Number of travel hours 8. Number of nights spent 9. Full name of the leader and participants, their qualification

Gelintas 3900

View from NW ridge of p. Kupriyanova

Gelintas 3900

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§ 4 Assault Group Composition

After the coaches' council, the following groups were formed:

Assault Group

1. Rusanov Viktor Nikolayevich — leader of the ascent, Master of Sports of the USSR in alpinism, Candidate Master of Sports in rock climbing
2. Sivtsov Boris Grigoryevich — participant of the ascent, Master of Sports of the USSR in alpinism, 1st sports category in rock climbing
3. Sapoga Yevgeny Alexandrovich — participant of the ascent, Candidate Master of Sports in alpinism, Master of Sports of the USSR in rock climbing
4. Shatilov Vadim Mikhailovich — participant of the ascent, Master of Sports in alpinism, 1st sports category in rock climbing

Observation and Communication Group

1. Zhelobotkin Pyotr Ivanovich
2. Alekseenko Alexey Andreyevich

72

— Ascent to Kulay Dzhovanon Peak

via the NE ridge — Cat. 2B The ascent to the peak is made from the "Zelenaya Polyana" bivouac, located below Bivachnaya Peak. From the camp, one should go up along the stream flowing from the cirque of Khamsai, Ular, Khyrss, and Kulay Dzhovanon peaks. Bypassing a small lake, exit onto the firn fields of the Kulay Dzhovanon Glacier, and follow them to the visible saddle between Khyrss Peak and the northeastern ridge of Kulay Dzhovanon. The saddle is snowy, with breaks in the summer, and crevasses. The ascent to the saddle is relatively gentle, but the path is blocked by a bergschrund, which is overcome via snow bridges. From the saddle, the ridge is visible up to the first peak, sometimes called Maly Kulay Dzhovanon. The route from the saddle begins directly along the ridge without detours. Having traversed two rope lengths along it, approach low rock spires. It is impractical to bypass them due to significant height loss. The ascent between these spires via a narrow cleft leads to the northern side of the ridge. On the northern side of the ridge, there are many wide and narrow ledges that lead directly to the pre-summit rise, bypassing two complex gendarmes. When detouring at the top, there are short sections of relatively difficult climbing with sufficient outcrops for reliable belays. Upon reaching the pre-summit shoulder, the final meters involve overcoming a rock "plug." From the shoulder platform, the further path to the summit is visible. From the north, the summit tower drops with sheer walls to the glacier, while from the south, steep, rough slabs cut by cracks are visible.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Ascent area — Igizak area, Gissar ridge.
3. Khamsoya Central peak (3640 m) via the western edge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m, length of sections with 3–4 difficulty category — 160 m, average steepness — 65°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying: rock — 4

The arch is located to the right and above (I50 m) of the cave. There is a control tour on the arch. The exit from the cave to the right seems easier, but having passed a relatively simple rope, one has to overcome three ropes of difficult climbing with an exit to the same main arch. The right variant of the exit from the cave is more complicated than the left one. From the control tour upwards along grey rocks with black streaks and further along the system of shelves and rocks of medium difficulty to the left and upwards to the grey-yellow rock protruding from the wall (three ropes from the tour). From the arch between the wall and the grey-yellow rock

• ascent upwards along the inner corner with a slight overhang in the upper part. Further:

1. Reconstruction class: rock
2. Reconstruction area: Pamir, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. Factor 24200 (along the S-3 ridge)
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 700 m, length of sections 5 km

• difficulty — 25 m
• average steepness of the wall section — 45°
• overall — 37°

7. Number of travel hours — 10

8. Six overnight stays - there are no overnight stays on the route, overnight stay at the base camp. 9. Group composition: Trofimov A.A. — 1st sports category, leader. Burlakov D.N. — 1st sports category, participant. Loginov D.N. — 1st sports category, — " — Sanddalov I.S. — 1st sports category, — " — 10. Team coach: — Karlov G.S. II. Date of departure on the route — March 11, 1972

PASSPORT

1. Technical class.
2. Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Ridge, Northern spur.
3. Peak 4810 m.
4. First ascent 6B cat. diff. (approximately).
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference – 1110 m
   • length of 6B cat. diff. sections – 1140 m
   • « — » « — » 5B cat. diff. – 300 m
   • « — » « — » 4B cat. diff. – 65 m

6. Tomsk student camp