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Route Description: Семерка
Description of the "Semerka" route and its "Semerka left" variation on the south-eastern wall of Forosskiy Kant with a detailed analysis of the stages and technical difficulties.
Through the center of the southeastern wall via the cornice Semerka (Semerka), 5a (route by P. Denisenko, 1976), variant by V. Shushlyapin "Semerka on the left", 5B *)
The route goes through the center of the southeastern wall via a cornice, which resembles a seven in its shape. A landmark for its beginning can be a large juniper bush growing in the lower part of the wall.
From the road near the alpinist parking under Forosskiy Kant, move up and left, first along the trail, and then along the talus (R0: 150 m, 20–30°, category I).
On the section R1–R2 — up 30 m to a wild strawberry tree (Bestydnitsa) (R1–R2: 30 m, 80°, IV).
On the section R2–R3 — first traverse 10 m left to a crevice, and then up along a vaguely expressed internal corner. Having overcome a short overhanging wall, move towards the juniper bush (R2–R3: 40 m, 80°, V).
On the section R3–R4 — first left and up 25 m along a chip to a dry tree on a ledge. Above the ledge is an overhanging wall. It is passed first on the left through a crevice, and then — along the internal corner (R3–R4: 40 m, 80°, V+).
On the section R4–R5 — first up and right along the internal corner to a green bush located to the left of the lower part of the Semerka cornice. Then move to the upper corner of the cornice (R4–R5: 40 m, 80°, V).
On the section R5–R6 — first pass the cornice straight up. Then traverse right 8 m along a ledge to a vertical internal corner. Up along the corner to a horizontal ledge, and then traverse 10 m left (R5–R6: 40 m, 80°, V).
On the section R6–R7 — up along smooth inclined slabs to a ledge (R6–R7: 40 m, 75°, IV).
Route Description: Большой фонтан
The "Big Fountain" route, category 2B difficulty, on Forosskiy Kant, description of the path and technical information for climbers.
Foros Kant — 2B "Bolshoy Fontan"
Massif: Chelebi (657 m); Difficulty: 5A, VI, A2 Author: A. Lavrinenko, A. Kuzmenko
Year of route creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 6 Length: 255 m Time to complete: 6–7 hours
The route is located in the right part of the Foros Kant wall. The start is to the right of the "Rhombs" route. The approach is the same as for "Rhombs", but instead of turning left at the end, move up towards a large juniper growing under the wall. The start of the route is about 10 meters to the left. The general direction of movement is towards the left edge of the group of trees in the lower part of the wall.
R0–R1 45 m. Initially, climb the slab, then continue on aid, there is a bolt, exit into a crack, ascend the crack to a mulda with trees; the belay station is on the upper left tree.
(5 m V; 10 m A2; 15 m V; 15 m IV)
R1–R2 45 m. From the tree, move up and left for 5 m, then ascend through cracks, slightly left; the terrain is rich, you can climb for about 10 m until reaching an overhang. Under the overhang, there is a bolt. From the bolt, climb up the slab using skyhooks (one relief, followed by two holey ones) to a tree. From the tree, move up and right through a small corner to reach a ledge. Climbing is tense at first, becoming easier after about 10 m. The belay station is on a tree.
(15 m V; 5 m A2; 10 m V; 10 m III)
R2–R3 40 m. From the ledge, ascend through an internal corner, initially by free climbing, and then on aid in the upper part.
Route Description: По левому камину
Description of the 2Б route "up the left chimney" to Chelebi mountain, an alternative via the chimney, with recommendations on equipment and tactics for passing.
Description of the "left chimney" route 2B on Chelebi, variant through the chimney.
Written by Anatolik Eremeev on September 25, 2011
The approach to the route from the parking area near the spring takes 40 minutes, from the road — about an hour.
R0–R1. The start is from a tree at the base of the chimney. The first rope length is "garden-veggie" climbing between bushes and trees. Nothing complicated. The station is on a tree before the "plug". (40 m II)
R1–R2. Unambiguous climbing. It's impossible to get lost.
- "Probka" (plug)
- "Probka kolodets" (plug well) The station is on a tree after the second "plug". (35 m: 5 m IV, 25 m I, 5 m IV) R2–R3. The crux rope length. This is where the most interesting part begins. From the tree, approach the "plug" before entering the deep dark chimney. If the rocks are slippery, you can hang a foot loop in the "hourglass". Then move a couple of meters up the chimney. Climb in "raspor" (opposition) — you won't be able to do it otherwise :). Protection:
Route Description: По Большому камину
"Chimney in a chimney", 4A on Chelebi: a detailed description of an interesting route with varied climbing and chimneys, recommendations on equipment and ascent techniques.
"Chimney in the Chimney", 4A (Chelebi)
Route thread
A very interesting and beautiful route, abundant with diverse climbing, especially memorable for its chimneys. Judging by its condition, it is rarely climbed and requires clearing of ledges from stones.
Recommended for ascent by well-prepared groups. It is better to have experience in chimney climbing, although the route is well-suited for getting acquainted with this truly interesting and enjoyable type of climbing.
The terrain on the route does not lend itself to frequent use of protection, but there are places where pitons can be used.
In principle, for the passage of the route, it will be sufficient to have:
- several medium-sized friends,
- a set of stoppers,
- seven to ten quickdraws.
Route Description: Куриная лапка
Description of the "Kurinaia lapochka" route, category 4B difficulty, with a focus on altered sections and recommendations for equipment and passage technique.
4Б cat. dif., "Kurinnaya Lapochka" (Chicken Leg)
The exit to the cirque above the first belt of rocks is described in route Ch10. Walk along the terrace to the left, under a narrow, clearly visible crack in the slab, stretching from right to left. The crack is located 40–50 m to the left of a large cornice. R1 is set near a tree under the crack. Climb up the crack to the left and exit onto a small ledge (20 m, 80°, V, small and medium-sized gear). Then:
- Under the cornice, climb up an inner corner with a convenient crack for 15 m to a ledge.
- Traverse left along the ledge to a tree (VI) — R2. From the tree:
- Climb 4–5 m up and to the right along the wall.
- Swing right into an inner corner behind a ridge. Climb complex rocks in the inner corner for 15 m upwards (85°, VA1, small and medium-sized gear), then pass a small overhang and exit into another inner corner.
Route Description: Павлова
The "Pavlova" route is rated 5A, runs along a monolithic wall, and includes rock climbing with belays using old pitons and anchors.
Route №16 «Pavlova»
5A VI A1 275 m (6 pitches). Average passage time — 4–6 hours. The main part of the route goes through the center of the monolithic wall. On the way, climbers will encounter many old rock pitons and anchors, which do not inspire confidence. The start coincides with routes №13–15. In addition, movement can begin along the first pitch of route №17. R0–R1: 30 m. Along the ledge, go left to the tree. From it, 20 meters up through simple rocks. Belay station on the tree. Transition:
- 10 m — I
Route Description: Зуб
Route 5B category on скала Зуб (Zub Rock), description of the path, 10 pitches, terrain features and belaying details.
Route №12 “Zub”
(D. Popov, A. Shelkhakov, 1999) 5B V+ A2 345 m (10 pitches). Average completion time — 5–7 hours. A long and infrequently visited route. Some intermediate pitons are unreliable. Navigate through the boulder field to reach the base of a massive chimney-fissure. Follow the wall to the right, towards the flake “Zub”. The route starts on the large flake “Zub” leaning against the wall. From the top of the flake, the route transitions to the main wall, then to a large ledge. From the left part of the ledge, the route goes up through a series of internal corners. The exit to the yayla is via a piton traverse through an overhang. R0–R1: 35 m. Up the monolithic wall on the left side of “Zub” to the right, towards a tree. Pitons are present. Belay station on a tree. 35 m V+. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1. R2–R3: 20 m. Descend into a gap between “Zub” and the main wall. Swing pendulum-style to the wall and reach the belay station. 20 m.
Route Description: Синтез сознания
The "Synthesis of Consciousness" route on Shaan-Kaya, category of complexity 5B, includes 7 pitches, the length is 300 m, and the ascent takes 4-6 hours.
Shaan-Kaya — 12. "Synthesis of Consciousness"
Massif: Shaan-Kaya (985 m) Complexity: 5B, VI, A1 Author: A. Geniush, Kudryavtsev Year of route creation: 2008 Number of pitches: 7 Length: 300 m Time to complete: 4–6 hours
Total length of the route is 213 m, suggested complexity category is 5B.
R0–R1 (42 m, A2, f 6b) — The route starts between the "Arsenal" and "Maximen" routes, among the ivy, a crack for anchors and medium-sized stoppers begins. Move up the crack towards a small pine tree, then tackle a slight overhang in its central part, where a crack leads under the small pine. After the tree, ascend 10 m on anchors and stoppers to reach the belay station, which is set on two anchors.
R1–R2 (38 m, A2, f 6B) — From the station, shift 1 m left and upwards to a vertical crack, then move up through it towards an internal corner. The corner is well-passed using medium and large cams and stoppers. The corner leads to a narrow horizontal ledge that goes left. Traverse 6 m along the ledge; there are 2 anchors on the traverse. From the anchors, lower slightly to the station, which is set on 2 anchors. The traverse itself is not complicated and is relatively safe.
R2–R3 (35 m, A3, f-7a) — The next pitch starts with a beautiful flake forming a small internal corner with the main wall. Ascend 8–10 m through this corner to a sloping ledge. From the sloping ledge, move through an overhang with a small internal corner to a large internal corner. On the overhang, there are 2 intermediate bolts:
- To the 1st anchor, ascend via the small internal corner on small, partially driven anchors.
- To reach the 2nd anchor, use large skyhooks (3 pcs.).
Route Description: Самурай
Climbers carried out a routine cleaning of the *"Samurai"* 6B, A3 route on the Shaan-Kaya massif, removing unnecessary pitons and bolts, and also identified the points of intersection with the adjacent *"Atlant-M"* rock climbing route.
Author: Alexey Shelkhakov, Simferopol Scheduled cleaning of the "Samurai" route 6A, 6B, A3 On January 13, the team of Popov — Shelkhakov carried out a scheduled cleaning of their "Samurai" route (6B — A3) on the Shaan-Kaya massif, removing the pitons and poorly fixed temporary bolts left by other climbers. We also identified the points where our route intersects with the climbing route "Atlant-M" 8b, 250 m, which was completed in early autumn 2004 by the team led by A. Vedenmeer. Since we were unable to find a diagram of this route online, we had to determine the situation on site. The previously published photographs of Atlant-M did not indicate the neighboring routes, and accordingly, did not specify the points of intersection with the existing mountaineering routes on the massif. The inspection showed that Atlant-M intersects Samurai at an acute angle between R3–R4, which significantly reduces its difficulty. In its upper part, this route intersects Samurai again near the ledges, which is generally insignificant. On the final section, before reaching the plateau, it runs very close to it. In light of these circumstances, we decided to remove the bolts of the Atlant-M route that are located within the corridor of the Samurai route, but only those that reduce its difficulty — specifically, the section between R3–R4. We removed two bolts:
- One of them was driven 40 cm away from ours and can be replaced by it.
- Further, there is a crack suitable for pitons, where one can be fully and reliably secured, thus replacing the second removed bolt. This is the minimum of what was possible; Atlant-M remains passable. The diagrams of the routes provided by us may contain inaccuracies, but it's still better than nothing.
Route Description: Самурай
Description of the "Samurai" route 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m on Shaan-Kaya with a detailed list of belay points and mountaineering equipment used.
Tourist Encyclopedia
"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)
Interpretation — "Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)
Tourist Encyclopedia
"Samurai", 6A, F6c, A3, 290 m (Shaan-Kaya)
At the beginning of the route, a drill has beaten out on the rock:
- 2001
- an arrow pointing up and slightly to the right. R0–R1: Three meters of climbing T1 — a large V-shaped hook in a live flake to the right and up. Two to three meters of a small ledge. There's a crack in it.