Route №12 “Zub”

(D. Popov, A. Shelkhakov, 1999)

5B V+ A2 345 m (10 pitches). Average completion time — 5–7 hours.

A long and infrequently visited route. Some intermediate pitons are unreliable.

Navigate through the boulder field to reach the base of a massive chimney-fissure. Follow the wall to the right, towards the flake “Zub”.

The route starts on the large flake “Zub” leaning against the wall. From the top of the flake, the route transitions to the main wall, then to a large ledge. From the left part of the ledge, the route goes up through a series of internal corners. The exit to the yayla is via a piton traverse through an overhang.

R0–R1: 35 m. Up the monolithic wall on the left side of “Zub” to the right, towards a tree. Pitons are present. Belay station on a tree. 35 m V+.

R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1.

R1–R2: 20 m. Up the slab, exit to a gentler slope. Belay station on a tree. 20 m V+ A1.

R2–R3: 20 m. Descend into a gap between “Zub” and the main wall. Swing pendulum-style to the wall and reach the belay station. 20 m.

R3–R4: 30 m. Up a discontinuous crack, the terrain is rich but partially destroyed. Several pitons are available for protection. Belay station near a small tree. 30 m V+ A1.

R4–R5: 60 m. Up an internal corner to a small ledge. Traverse right along the ledge to another internal corner. Up the corner to a large ledge. Belay station on a tree. 60 m V.

R5–R6: 40 m. Traverse left along the ledge. 40 m easy.

R6–R7: 40 m. Up the slab, initially via free climbing, then aided (pitons, skyhook). Exit to a small ledge, traverse right and up to a tree. Belay station. 40 m V A1–A2.

R7–R8: 50 m. Up internal corners that curve left, exit to a ledge. Traverse right to a tree. Belay station. 50 m V+.

R8–R9: 30 m. Up a gentle slab under an overhang. Belay station on pitons. 30 m IV.

R9–R10: 20 m. Through the overhang via a path with 7 pitons, then easy climbing to reach the yayla. 20 m III A1.