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Alpinist Activity of the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR

Report on Category 2B Climb

On the first ascent to peak 5879 m (KPI) via the Western Counterfort by the team from the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR (South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, Vakhan Range, Chondzhirav gorge). Leader: BAYORENE Yu.G. Team Coach: GUDIALIS A.V. A. Bloshkis O. Usikas 780, 2200, 30°, 6 m, 5 hours traverse. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR — 232675, Lithuanian SSR, VILNIUS, Zhemaites 6, tel. 63-53-53

I.­ Kaparte: altitude-technical. 2. North-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin ridge, Peak Vrangelya 3. Peak 5879 m, via Western counterfort. 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2B, first ascent. 5. Height difference: 780 m, length 2200 m, average steepness of main sections 30°. 6. Pitons used: ice screws — 6. 7. Duration: 5 hours (day I). 8. Team leader: Baiorene Brate Genrikovna Team members:

PASSPORT

1. Class: high-altitude technical. 2. South-West Pamir, Shahdara Range, Vahan Range, Chondzhirav valley. 3. Peak 5879 m via South Ridge from 5650 m col. 4. Proposed 2B category; first ascent. 5. Height difference: 780 m; length 2400 m, average steepness of main sections 35°.
2. Pitons used: ice screws — 6. 7. Team's travel time: 5.5 hours (1 day). 8. Leader: PLYASKUS Jonas Stasevich. Team members: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich — Candidate Master of Sports, KRIPAITITE Ruta Povilonas — 2nd sports category, GRIGAS Zenonas Zenonovich — 2nd sports category, MACHERNIS Vidmantas Pyatrovich — 3rd sports category.
3. Coach: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich.
4. Route approach on August 6, 1984. Photo #1. Peak 5879 m (KPI) — general view. Photographed from Chondzhirav glacier, August 17, 1984. Distance 3 km. "Helios-44M" lens.

Brief Overview of the Area

Peaks Vrangs (5350 m), Darius and Girenas (5998 m), Litvanika (6004 m), KPI (5879 m), and Academician Barshauskas (5649 m) are located in the South-West Pamir, in the eastern part of the latitudinal section of the Shahdara Range, specifically in the Vahan Range.

PASSPORT

1. Class — high-altitude technical
2. South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Peak named after S. Darius and S. Girėnas (5998.3 m) via the northern ridge
4. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, combined, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1198 m, length — 2310 m Length of sections 6 — 28 m, 4–5 — 400 m. Average steepness of main sections 70°.
6. Pitons driven | rock | placements | ice | | :--: | :-------: | :---: |

Peak 6004 (Lituanika) via the Southeast Ridge

I. Category: High-altitude technical 2. South-West Pamir, Chondzhirav valley 3. Peak 6004 (Lituanika) via the Southeast Ridge 4. Proposed — 4A category of difficulty; combined, first ascent 5. Elevation gain: 650 m, length 1400 m Length of sections with 4–5 category of difficulty — 160 m. Average steepness of sections — 70° 6. Pitons driven: Rock – 10, chocks – 4.

1984 Lithuanian Sports Committee Climbing Gathering

Report

on the first ascent to the peak 6004 m "Lituanica" via the northern ridge from Chondzhiraf glacier by the "Polytechnika" team from Kaunas 400, 650, 21 cu, 22 mg, 10 hours. Congratulations to the winners! TEAM LEADER: Bronius Varsackis. TEAM COACH: Algis Gudyalis. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR 232675, Lithuanian SSR, Vilnius, Zemaite St., 6, phone 63-53-53 Bronius Varsackis — 233005, Lith. SSR, Kaunas, Kapsu St., 101-1, phone 22-57-91 Algis Gudyalis — 233021, Lith. SSR, Kaunas, Kaniu St., 4-17, phone 26-45-91, work phone 75-35-11

USSR Climbing Championship

1983

High-altitude technical ascents class

Report

on the ascent to peak "6100" via the northeast wall by the team of the Georgian Sports Committee FIRST ASCENT Team leader: Gheldiashvili I.A. Deputy team leader: Tarkhnishvili D.I. 380012, Tbilisi, Bakinskaya St., 10, tel. 95-08-55 Team coach: Giuashvili R.I.

Sports Club of the Army of the Leningrad Military District

Peak "Armeitsev" (5398 m) via the Southwest Ridge (first ascent)

The route was completed by the team of the Armed Forces of the Leningrad Military District on August 7-8, 1977. 1978 I. General view of the peak 5398 m, Armeitsev Map of the Yazgulem-dara area

Approach to the summit

The peak Armeitsev (5398 m) is located in a lateral spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, which has a northeast-southwest orientation over a short distance. The spur, where the peak is situated, has an eastern and southeastern orientation. This spur starts from the peak 5700 m, borders the upper arm of the Yazgulem-dara glacier from the south. At the slopes of this spur, the Yazgulem-dara glacier makes a sharp turn to the south and flows along the eastern slopes of peak Armeitsev. On the other side of peak Armeitsev lies a large cirque, bordered from the west by the crest of the Yazgulem Ridge, and from the east by a spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, branching off near the Lower Khurdzhin pass.

MOSCOW REGIONAL COUNCIL Sports Society "Zenit" Protocol No. 322 dated November 24, 1970 4A — first ascent Peak 5398 "Army Men". via the Southwest wall (Central Pamir) 1970 Peak 5398 (view from camp "3700")

ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING

Report

On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m

via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
4. The route is rocky (summer).
5. Height difference: 510 m