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Route Description: II баст. правой части С стены
Ascent to the peak "Kholodnaya стена" by the north wall, 6 cat., first ascent made in 1985 by a team led by Babito Kryachyov.
59а
1. Ascent Passport
- High-altitude technical climb
- Pamir, eastern spurs of Yazgulemsky Ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley
- Peak Kholodnaya Stena via the central bastion of the north face
- Proposed 5B category of complexity, first ascent
- Wall section height difference: 1260 m, length: 1450 m. Total height difference: 1500 m, total length: 2000 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity: 830 m. Average steepness of main sections: 74° (5000–5650 m), including 280 m of 6th category complexity.
- Pitons used:
Route Description: центру С стены
Ascent description of an alpinist team to the summit Kholodnaya Stena (5979 m) via the center of the North face in the Pamir mountains, 6B difficulty category.
ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent class: High-altitude technical 2. Ascent area: Pamir, eastern spurs of the Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak, its height, route: Kholodnaya стена, 5979 m, via the center of the North face 4. Difficulty category: 6B 5. Route characteristics:
- Height difference: 1500 m
- Length of sections:
- 6th category difficulty: 760 m
- 5th category difficulty: 860 m
Route Description: левой части В стены
Ascent to Peak Golodnaya Stena via the center of the East Face, category of difficulty - high-altitude technical route, elevation gain 1580 m, 7 nights out, 68 walking hours.
I. Ascent category — high-altitude technical 2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Ascent route — p. Kholodnaya Stena 5959 m via the center of the East wall (second ascent, Kovtun's route) 4. Route characteristics:
- height difference — 1580 m;
- route length — 2005 m;
- average steepness — 74°;
- length of complex sections — 1375 m;
- average steepness of the "mirror" — 87° with a length of 740 m.
- Pitons driven:
Route Description: левой части В стены
First ascent of the peak "Kholodnaya Stena" (5979 m) via the Eastern wall, category 6B difficulty, in the Yazgulem ridge.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
I. Altitude-technical class. 2. Yazgulemsky ridge, Khavraz-Dara gorge. 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena", 5979 m via the center of the "mirror" of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1519 m, length - 1925 m. Length of sections with 5-6 category of difficulty - 1370 m. 6B category of difficulty - 640 m, 5B category of difficulty - 730 m. Average steepness of the route 73°. Average steepness of the "mirror" 84°, section R23-R48 (5180-5780). 6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Chocks | Ice screws |
Route Description: центру В стены
First ascent of the peak "Kholodnaya Stena" (5979 m) by the Eastern wall, 6B cat. of difficulty, Yazgulemskiy ridge.
Ascent Passport
I. Technical Difficulty Category. 2. Yazgulsky Ridge, Havraz-dara gorge. 3. Peak "Kholodnaya Stena", 5979 m via the center of the "mirror" of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 1519 m, route length — 1925 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1370 m. 6 category of difficulty — 640 m, 5 category of difficulty — 750 m. Average steepness of the route 73°. Average steepness of the "mirror" 84°, sections 23–48 (5160–5780). 6. Pitons driven:
Route Description: центру В стены
Peak Kholodnaya Stena, route description, elevation 5975 meters.
п. Kholodnaya stena
5975
Route Description: центру В стены
Description of the team's ascent to the summit of Kholodnaya Stena (5979 m) in the Pamir Mountains via the Eastern Wall, rated as 6B complexity category.
ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical. 2. Area — Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge. 3. Cold Wall peak, 5979 m, via the center of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference — 1329 m, length — 1778 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1083 m, average steepness of the main part of the wall — 84° (5170–5710 m), average steepness of the wall up to the ridge — 70°. 6. Pitons used:
| rock | bolt | chockstones | ice screws |
|---|---|---|---|
| 405 | 4 | 323 | 38 |
Route Description: центру 3 стены
Report on MAI team's ascent to Chiringad peak (5864 m) via the center of the West face, category 6B difficulty level, in Pamir, 2008.
Russian Championship (Technical Climbing Category)
Climbing Report of the MAI Team
on peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall, 6B category, August 5-8, 2008
Moscow, 2008
Team Captain: M. Volkov alpclu@yandex.ru ph. +7-985-233-83-64
Team Coach: V. Lavrinenko lavrinenco2004@mail.ru ph. +7-916-439-03-12
Report preparation: M. Pankov maxtreme@bk.ru ph. +7-910-492-76-05
Climbing Details
№ 4.12.61, peak Chiringyad 5864 m via the center of the Western wall (N. Petrov, 1989), 6B
Route Description: центру В стены
The first ascent of Peak 5156 m in the Pamir Mountains via the East Face (Grade 5B), accomplished by a team led by G. Isachenko in 1984.
- Central Pamir, Nzguleim-Dara gorge
- Peak 5156 m via the center of the east wall
- Proposed category 5B, first ascent n p 540 × 59 / 2.44 r.
- Height difference: 630 m, length: 740 m Length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty: 450 m. Average steepness of the route: 64°
- Pitons hammered: | rock | stoppers | ice | | :--------: | :--------: | :-------: | | 9 I (6) | I 9 (2) | 9 / 2 |
- Team's man-hours: 25 and days — 3
Route Description: Ю гребню, траверс
The Moscow "Zenith" team completed a traverse of Peaks 5600, 5682, and 50 let Vooruzhennykh Sil in the Central Pamir via a Category 5B route.
Moscow Regional Council of the Zenith Voluntary Sports Society
Traverse
- Peak 5600
- Peak 5682
- Peak 50 Years of the Armed Forces (Central Pamir)
Team Composition
- Pugachev V.A. — II sports category — team leader
- Kuzmin A.S. — I sports category — team member
- Makhnovich L.A. — II sports category — team member