4.2.26

4.2. Pamir, Vanch Range, Peak Khrustalny, 5231 m, North Face

Alpinism Club "Donbass"

	Designation	Rank	Club
1.	BONDARETS Stanislav Afanasievich	Candidate for Master of Sports	Burevestnik
2.	FELD'MAN Gennadiy L'vovich	1st sports rank	Burevestnik
3.	MIROSHNICHENKO Konstantin Vasil'evich	1st sports rank	Avangard
4.	MARTYNENKO Sergey Ivanovich	1st sports rank	Avangard
5.	MESHCHERYAKOV Aleksandr Sergeevich	1st sports rank	Avangard

Ascent Passport

I. Category: technically challenging ascents 2. Region: Central Pamir, upper reaches of the Vanch River. 3. Route: first ascent to Peak 5137 m (Shaugada) via the northeast wall. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1100 m, average steepness: +50°, length of complex sections (5 and 6 difficulty category) – 335 m. 5. Pitons driven: rock — 40, ice — 22 (excluding descent) 6. Number of climbing hours: 18.5 (excluding descent) 7. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: one sitting bivouac on the wall on an artificial platform 8. Team name: team of the Leningrad City Council of the Spartacus Sports Society 9. Team composition:

Climbing Record for the Unnamed Peak 5300 m

1. Climbing category — high-altitude and technical.
2. Climbing area — the northernmost of the western spurs of the Vanch Range between Pravyy Dustiroz and Skryty glaciers.
3. The Unnamed Peak is located in the ridge northeast of the 5190 m peak. Estimated height is 5300 m. The route follows the eastern ridge, accessing it via the northern buttress from the Skryty Glacier.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1200 m, length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 205 m, average steepness (excluding the horizontal ridge section) — 45°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 12, ice — 7. Number of climbing hours — 18.
7. Number of nights spent — 1, on the ridge.
8. Team leader — Yuri Vasilenko, 1st sports category.

Ascent Passport.

I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical 2. Ascent region — Pamir, Larvazsky ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — first ascent of Pik Arnavad — 6083 m, north wall 4. Expected difficulty category — 6 5. Section characteristics: height difference — 1960 m, length of sections 5–6 km — 1550 m, average steepness of the wall — 65° 6. Pitons hammered: for belay for 110 rock 179 19, ice 134 13

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Western Pamir, Darvaz ridge, Mazarsaya valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: traverse of peaks Bereznyak (5000) and Bakhchivandzhi (5150) with ascent to peak Bereznyak via the eastern buttress
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1040 m. total route length to peak Bakhchivandzhi 3500 m
6. Pitons driven:

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type — High-altitude-technical.
2. Climbing area — Western Pamir, spur of Darvaz Range.
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — unnamed, 5500 m, via the middle buttress of the western wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B category of difficulty. First ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2000 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 990 m, average steepness to the ridge — 65°.
6. Number of driven pitons for belay and artificial climbing holds (ICH): rock pitons — 155, including 22 for ICH, ice pitons — — , bolt pitons — —
7. Number of walking hours — 51.

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing type: technical II. Climbing area: Western Pamir, Mazarsy ridge, Mazar valley III. Peak, altitude, route: Peak Soviet Olympians (p. 5347) via the right buttress of the southern wall; name proposed by the first ascenders IV. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff., first ascent V. Route characteristics: height difference 1420 m, length – 1625 m (of which V and VI cat. diff. – 1425 m) Steepness – 61°; in the lower and middle part of the route, there is no water for 850 m (in the second half of summer). VI. Number of pitons: 203 (rock pitons – 191, bolt pitons – 12), of which 33 for creating artificial anchors (ITO) VII. Number of walking hours: 74 h 30 min VIII. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

PASSPORT

1. Class of first ascents 2. Pamir, Darvaz Range 3. Peak Suraysha, via the right bastion of the eastern wall 4. Proposed — 6B category of complexity, first ascent 5. Height difference — 1405 m, length: wall — 1675 m, ridge — 300–400 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 1095 m. Average steepness: ice — 52°, rocky part — 76°, overall wall — 88°, including 6B category of complexity 83° (4700–4910), 82° (5030–5270) 6. Pitons driven:

rock	bolt	chocks	ice
204	10	89	39

1. ASCENT CLASS: High-altitude-technical.
2. ASCENT AREA: Mazarsky Ridge, Pamir.
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Peak 5772 m (central summit) via the southwestern edge (first ascent).
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5B, first ascent.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: height difference — 2572 m, length of sections with 5B difficulty category — 1135 m, average steepness:
   • approach to the start of the southwestern edge — 35° (with a height difference of 270 m),
   • along the southwestern edge — 50° (with a height difference of 1930 m),
   • along the pre-summit ridge — 55° (with a height difference of 372 m),
   • entire ascent route (from the glacier to the summit) — 55°.

Brief Characteristics of Dalar Peak

Dalar Peak (elevation 3981 m above sea level) is located in the western part of the Central Uplift of the Main Ridge. It is 25 km west-southwest of Elbrus. The chain of peaks (Filter, Zamok, Dvoinyashka, Dalar, and Shokoladny) bounds the cirque of the Bolshoy Kichkinokol glacier from the south, east, and west, giving rise to the eponymous river, which flows into the Uzunkol River. The first ascent to Dalar Peak was made in 1937 via route 3B cat. sl. After 1960, other routes were climbed and classified on Dalar:

• 5B on the North Face;
• 5B on the NE ridge;
• 4B from Shokoladny Peak;
• 4A from the south. The ridge from the east remained, which was traversed in the reverse direction (on descent) by a group from CSKA in 1962 during the traverse of the Kichkinokol horseshoe. The route along the Eastern ridge is very logical.

Sports Group Composition