Fig. 71. a – initial part of Route 27 (R0–R3); 1, 2 and 3 – Left, Central and Right ("Hockey player") gendarmes; b – view of the South walls and West ridge of Dimitrov-100 peak (sections R3–R10), partially R11 and R12 – from the West ridge of Bulgaro-Soviet Friendship peak; c – section R11–R12 of Route 27. Photo by V. Bobylyov. View from the North Fig. 70. Sketch of Route 27. Scale 1:3000 Route 27 (Fig. 69, 70). The path to the assault camp "At the lake" under the southern slopes of the 60th anniversary of KChAO peak is described earlier (Route 22). From the base camp "Ice farm" to the specified assault camp – 4–5 hours. The approach path to the beginning of the described route partially coincides with a similar path to Route 26 (3A). From the base of the ascent on Route 26, you need to turn 90° left, towards the saddle between Bulgaro-Soviet Friendship peak and the South tower of Dimitrov-100 peak. There are three gendarmes on the saddle. The direction should be kept towards the base of the junction of the saddle wall and the South tower wall. A couloir descends here from under the right gendarme "Hockey player". The start of the route. Movement on 30–40° snow. From the "At the lake" overnight stay – 2 hours 30 minutes. The beginning of Route 27 coincides with Route 24 (up to R3). Section R0–R1 (Fig. 71a). Along the left part of the couloir (smoothed gneiss granite) 35 m to a convenient reception point (chip, shelter). At the same time, the overhang encountered after 25 m is bypassed on the left with an exit above it. α = 70°. 3 stoppers.

Peak 3118 (Ayyuly) Route: via the south ridge Category: 1B (combined) Leader: A. Lyapunov Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Irkis valley, north-eastern spur of the Arkasar ridge — Gabulu ridge, Ayyuly tract Section in KMGV — 2.1.

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to Peak 3118 (Ayyuly) as part of the "Third stage of the Cup of NP «Sauk-Pay» — «Irkis-2015»" climbing competition

2867 m Фишт R26–R25–R14–R23–R22–R21–R19–R17–R18–R16–R15–R14–R12–R11 2200 m R10 (19.08.2011) R8–R9–R7–R5–R6–R4–R3–R2

Brief Description of the Route Approach

From the base camp at Kardyvach Lake, ascend along the Mzymta River to the steep ascent to the plateau under Smidovikha Peak (1 hour). Up to the right onto the plateau and further to the 9th pass (1.5 hours). From here, descend and then, traversing the slopes of the Gl. Tsyndyshho massif, exit under the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West. The base of the eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West is represented by three steep, converging buttresses. The route follows the leftmost one, as the most logical and safe.

Brief Explanation for the Table

The route begins up a steep snow-ice couloir between the left and central buttresses of the Eastern ridge (R0–R1). Then, up to the left across steep, snow-covered rock slabs — exit onto the left buttress of the Eastern ridge of V. Tsyndyshho South-West (R1–R2). The route then logically follows the edge of the buttress (R2–R3, R3–R4). Climbing is quite difficult in places. The rocks are steep and highly smoothed in places. The R4–R5 section is a gentle, narrow rock ridge with two small but steep gendarmes, which are climbed head-on. At the start of this section, the first control cairn is built. At the end of the ridge, there is a short wall ending in a ledge where a tent can be set up (R5–R6). From here, straight up a sheer wall (R6–R7). There are very few holds, and climbing is difficult. At the end of the section, the second control cairn is built. The large black gendarme is climbed straight up (R7–R8), with free climbing. Sections R8–R9, R9–R10 are climbed with alternate belays through an ice axe. On section R9–R10, there are many large snow cornices. At the end of R9–R10, there is a wide snow corrie. From the snow corrie, straight up snow-covered rocks — exit onto the main ridge of V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R10–R11). Here, the route converges with route 2B cat. sl. on V. Tsyndyshho S-W (R11–R12). The ascent took 12 hours.

1: CATEGORY OF ASCENT: 2. REGION OF ASCENT 3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT AND ASCENT ROUTE 4 4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 5. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ROUTE: HEIGHT DIFFERENCE AVERAGE STEEPNESS LENGTH OF SEC. 6. NUMBER OF PITO­NS FOR BELAY (ROCK) 7. NUMBER OF TRAVEL HOURS 8. FULL NAME OF LEADER AND PARTICIPANTS: 9. TEAM COACH

Chaget-chat (2964 m)

p. Ekspeditsionny via upper ridge Ivanchenko V.A. Western Caucasus 2.1

Passport

1. Rock climbing route
2. Western Caucasus
3. p. Ekspeditsionny via upper ridge
4. Proposed — 3A category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 406 m, length 738 m

CLIMBING CLASS — Rock climbing CLIMBING REGION — Western Caucasus, Middle part of the North-West ridge of the Sofiyskiy ridge to the South-East from Stolichny 3.251 pass PEAK, ROUTE — “9 September” (first ascenders’ suggestion) via the Northern slope PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B ROUTE DESCRIPTION — Combined (snow and rock), absolute height difference ~550 m NUMBER OF PITONS DRIVEN — 10 DURATION — 4.5 hours NUMBER OF NIGHTS — No nights required on the route CLIMBING LEADER — E. Zaporozhchenko, Candidate for Master of Sports