RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION 4144. Protocol No. 332 of April 6, 1971 5B first ascent To the Classification Commission of the USSR Mountaineering Federation South-Western Pamir

PIK AKADEMIKA KRYLOVA VIA EASTERN WALL

(Moscow Truth) (first ascent, approximately 6th category of difficulty)

Ascent Logbook I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical. II. Ascent area — Southwest Pamir range, Shakhdarin range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Moscow Pravda (South) peak, 5739 m, right Northeast edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: * Height difference — 1200 m * Length of 5–6 sections — 910 m * Average steepness — 63° 6. Pitons driven:

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT IN THE TECHNICAL CATEGORY

of the expedition team from Kharkov Regional Sports Committee consisting of: Virchenko Yu.P. — Voronov Yu.N. Route: p. 4843 (Mramorny) via S.-E. ridge, S.-W. edge ROUTE PROFILE

Brief description of the approach to the route

p. 4843 (Mramorny) is located in a spur of the Shakhdarin ridge, S.-E. Pamir. This spur branches off the main ridge to the S.-E. towards the Pyanj river valley, and is bounded from the west by the Darshai gorge. The approach to p. 4843 is as follows:

• Up the trail along the Darshai gorge from the village of Darshai, located in the Pyanj river valley, up to the confluence of the Daraiimast river.

![img-0.jpeg] ASCENT TO PEAK NIKOLADZE VIA THE NORTH-EASTERN COUNTERFORCE First ascent. Approximate category 5B difficulty The route was climbed by a combined team from the Bauman MSTU sports club. Team leader: Maksimov

South-Western Pamir, July 1971

![img-1.jpeg] — The group's route. ![img-2.jpeg] Peak Nikoladze as seen from Zingvand glacier. Team leader Maksimov. 1971 — ascent route.

Ascent Description

The best mountaineering achievements of 1962 in the category of high-altitude ascents. Peak Tajikistan Peak «6565» (PAMIR) FIRST ASCENT Sports team Leningrad Regional Council of the DSO "Burevestnik" Team captain: Savvon S.M., Master of Sports of the USSR Coach: Gromov A.G., Master of Sports of the USSR

Pik Tajikistan is located on the Southwestern Pamir in the Southeastern spur of the Shahdara Range, adjacent to Peak K. Marx (see diagram). This area was explored later than other regions of the Pamir. The first mountaineering expedition was organized in 1946 by the All-Union Committee for Physical Education and Sports. The head of the expedition's assault group, Honored Master of Sports E.M. ABALAKOV, compiled an alpinist-geographical description of this most interesting region. In recent years, the Shahdara Range has become very popular, with a number of mountaineering expeditions visiting it. Now, this area is well explored. Without going into detail about the description, as it has been done quite thoroughly by previous expeditions, we can note only the main characteristic features of the area. Here, there are very convenient and close approaches from the access roads (highways), good stable weather, and low air humidity. Almost all ridges and crests end in gorges with powerful walls. The idea of ascending Pik Tajikistan from the east arose in 1964 during the ascent of Peak Moskovskaya Pravda. From this peak, Pik Tajikistan had a very majestic and grandiose appearance. In the Zughvand gorge, the peak ended in a giant wall. Additional information about the object of ascent was obtained from Spartakovites K. KLETSKO and G. AGRANOVSKY, who observed this peak in 1964 from the slopes of Peak Engels and confirmed that

BRIEF INFORMATION ABOUT THE AREA AND OBJECT OF ASCENT

the eastern wall of Pik Tajikistan has a very large steepness and length.

List

of the TsS DSO "Trud" team that participated in the country's championship in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents, having climbed the northeast wall of Peak Tajikistan 6565 m. Participants:

• 1. Chunovkin G.A., Master of Sports — team captain
• 2. Solonnikov V.A., Master of Sports — deputy captain
• 3. Shevchenko Yu.S., 1st category — doctor
• 4. Pugachev A.D., Master of Sports

Central Council of the Student Sports Society "Burvestnik"

Management of the Nurek Hydroelectric Power Station Construction

Class of Traverses 7-15

Traverse (6100)

PEAK TADZHIKISTAN – PEAK BEZYMYANNY – PEAK TTU – PEAK NIKOLADZE – PEAK ENGELS – PEAK 40 LET LKSMU With ascent to Peak Tadzhikistan via the central part of the north-eastern wall through "Kniga" (first ascent) (Team of the special squad of the Central Council of the Student Sports Society "Burvestnik" and the Nurek Hydroelectric Power Station of the Tajik SSR) Team captain – sports master V. Bozhukov Team coaches:

• Honored Master of Sports, Honored Coach of the USSR K. Kuzmin

DONETSK REGIONAL COUNCIL OF DSO "AVANGARD" ALP CLUB "DONBASS"

REPORT

on the first ascent to the South Tajikistan peak (6300 m) via the right part of the eastern wall Donetsk, 1972

I стр.

§ 1. Geographical location and sports characteristics of the South peak of Tajikistan

The South peak of Tajikistan is located in a spur of the Shakhdarin ridge, south of the main peak of Tajikistan (6565 m). On the eastern side, the peak is bounded by the Dridzh Zapadny glacier, and on the west by the Rovini glacier.

Peak 5826 meters. NORTH-WESTERN PAMIR. MALY TANIMAS VALLEY. FIRST ASCENT. 1967. Sports group of the Odessa DSO "Avangard". Ascent leader V. Nelupov. Odessa. 1969. Peak "5826 m" is located in one of the ridges formed by the peaks: