3. Description

First ascent of the North wall of the 2nd Western peak of Sakashil-Bashi massif 4050 m. Approximately 5A category of difficulty. On August 30, two groups of climbers from Tyrnyauz went to the Sakashil-Bashi area to make ascents:

• Group led by Drobot S.Yu. consisting of 4 people — to the North wall of the 2nd Western Sakashil-Bashi
• Support group led by Furudya A.A. consisting of 6 people — to traverse the massif from East to West. Leaving Tyrnyauz at 8:00, the group reached the original bivouac site "3430 m" on the left-bank moraine of the upper plateau of the Sakashil-Su glacier by 18:00. Platforms were made on the moraine and a bivouac was set up (see approach description and photos № 1 and № 2). On August 31, Drobot S.Yu.'s group left the bivouac at 3:00. After crossing the ice plateau, they approached the start of the ascent, which begins with a snow-ice rise of initially 30–40° and quickly transitions into a steep ice-snow slope of 60–70°. Along this slope, after 3–4 ropes, they reached a bergschrund, which they crossed via a snow bridge, and continued further on crampons: 3 ropes to a steep rocky counterfort, bypassing it on the ice below the rocks. They emerged onto the counterfort and moved 1 rope (40 m) along the rocks. Then, they traversed the ice slope (60–65°) almost horizontally and reached a small rocky outcrop. From the rocky outcrop, they ascended a 20 m ice slope, which led them to a "diamond" formation, where they set up the 1st control cairn. The ascent from the start took 4 hours. Belays were hook belays throughout the section.

peak Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) Route: via the southern ridge Category complexity — 1B cat. (rocky) Leader: D. Strelchuk Central Caucasus, Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge Section in KMGV — 2.4. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU

Report

On the first ascent of the climbing route to the peak Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) "via the southern ridge 2A cat. (rocky)". At the mountaineering event of the Higher Mountain School of the FAR "School of Instructors of Mountain Training of the Ministry of Defense of the Russian Federation" in 2012. Region: Kabardino-Balkarian Republic Mountain country: Central Caucasus Gorge: Terskol Ridge: mountain range — southeastern spur of Elbrus "Terskolak

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.4. Central Caucasus, mountain region — Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge, SE spur of Elbrus
2. Names of peaks: Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) — Sarykol (3700) Route: traverse from south to north
3. Category of complexity: 2B
4. Character of the route — rock.
5. Height difference of the route: 1376 m
6. Length of the route: 3320 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of complexity:

Suaryk Peak

Due to the isolated location of Suaryk peak and the long approaches from the north, climbers were unaware of the existence of the north face. Tenishev, who worked with geologists near the northern slopes of Suaryk, was the first to notice this face. In 1965, a snow-avalanche expedition of VGI worked in this area, which included climbers:

• Kakiani I.G.
• Zalikhanov M.Ch.
• Lezhenin A.I.
• Shatsky S.I. They recommended this ascent as an excellent wall, which could well be claimed for the USSR Climbing Championship.

Preliminary Preparation for the Ascent

Preparation for the ascent began in April 1967, after the event was approved by the Climbing Federation of the KBA SSR DSO "Spartak". A preliminary training plan was drawn up. It included general physical training sessions - 2 times a week, which included elements such as:

First ascent of the right part of the NE wall of peak Suaryk V. 3950 m (rock climbing category)

Report on the First Ascent

On the first ascent to peak Suaryk via the right part of the NE wall, approximately category 5B difficulty, accomplished by the team from Baksan Alpine Training and Sports Base (AUSB "Baksan") from August 3, 1990, to August 5, 1990. Coach: Drobot Stanislav Yuryevich Team Leader: Kruglovenko Alexander Vasilyevich Alpine Training and Sports Base "Baksan" 361603, KB ASSR, postal office Elbrus, AUSB "Baksan" Drobot Stanislav Yuryevich

Ascent Passport

1. Technical category
2. Caucasus. Prielbrusye
3. Suaryk (N) left part of the NE wall (variant of the route by V. Derevyanenko, 1987)
4. First ascent of a new 5B variant approximately
5. Height difference: 800 m Length: 1400 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff.: 400 m Average steepness of the wall part of the route: 76°
6. Pitons driven:

PASSPORT

1. Category strong.
2. Central Caucasus, Suvrik Valley.
3. Peak Suaryk Eastern, center of the SW wall, 3950 m.
4. Proposed - 5B category, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 625 m, length 895 m.
6. Length of sections with 5-6 category difficulty: 320 m. Average slope of the route - 63°. Average slope of the wall section of the route - 74°.
7. Pitons hammered in: | Rock Pitons | Bolt Pitons | Nuts |

. v. Suaryk (3B), traverse, sk, 3B cat. sl., route by V. Lazebny, 54 The path from the Adal-Su gorge by car to the v. V. Baksan. From the Kyrtyk river valley to the abandoned kosh at the confluence of the Zugull river and the Kyrtyk river. After fording the Zugull river past the kosh, we ascend to the right (orographic) slope of the Zugull river and traverse it at a height of 800–1000 m. From the mouth of the Zugulla, we ford it to the left bank, move along a faintly marked trail above the river to the bivouac site — 1.5–2 km. The bivouac is located under a huge talus descending from the Suaryk peak. The bivouac site is noticeable by a large limestone fragment, on top of which a tourist stone indicator (tur) is built. The path from v. V. Baksan takes 5–6 hours. From the overnight stay, the path goes along the talus (keeping to the left side) and leads under the walls of v. Suaryk.

DESCRIPTION

First ascent of the northeast ridge of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak of cat. diff.

by the group of instructors from "BAXAN" alpine camp on September 15-18, 1958

Caucasus Sylan gorge

Brief characteristics of SYL-TRAN-KEL-BOSHI peak.

Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak (3,806 m) is located in the watershed ridge running east from Elbrus. It separates the Su-Boshi valley from the Irik-Chat valley. The following peaks are located west of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak in this ridge:

• Mukol
• Kagem
• Irik-Chat to the south of Kuby-Santyg. The path to Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak starts from Verkhniy Baksan settlement.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route — FILTR peak 3760 m, northern counterfort
4. Proposed category difficulty — 3B category difficulty
5. Route characteristics — height difference 760 m, average steepness 45–50°
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: 18 (for belay), — (for creating intermediate belay points)
   • ice: 3 (for belay), — (for creating intermediate belay points)
   • bolt: — (for belay), — (for creating intermediate belay points)