3. Description

First ascent of the North wall of the 2nd Western peak of Sakashil-Bashi massif 4050 m. Approximately 5A category of difficulty.

On August 30, two groups of climbers from Tyrnyauz went to the Sakashil-Bashi area to make ascents:

• Group led by Drobot S.Yu. consisting of 4 people — to the North wall of the 2nd Western Sakashil-Bashi
• Support group led by Furudya A.A. consisting of 6 people — to traverse the massif from East to West.

Leaving Tyrnyauz at 8:00, the group reached the original bivouac site "3430 m" on the left-bank moraine of the upper plateau of the Sakashil-Su glacier by 18:00. Platforms were made on the moraine and a bivouac was set up (see approach description and photos № 1 and № 2).

On August 31, Drobot S.Yu.'s group left the bivouac at 3:00. After crossing the ice plateau, they approached the start of the ascent, which begins with a snow-ice rise of initially 30–40° and quickly transitions into a steep ice-snow slope of 60–70°. Along this slope, after 3–4 ropes, they reached a bergschrund, which they crossed via a snow bridge, and continued further on crampons: 3 ropes to a steep rocky counterfort, bypassing it on the ice below the rocks. They emerged onto the counterfort and moved 1 rope (40 m) along the rocks. Then, they traversed the ice slope (60–65°) almost horizontally and reached a small rocky outcrop. From the rocky outcrop, they ascended a 20 m ice slope, which led them to a "diamond" formation, where they set up the 1st control cairn. The ascent from the start took 4 hours. Belays were hook belays throughout the section.

From the 1st control cairn — straight up (20 m), then — left (in the direction of travel) crossing a steep ice couloir 10 m wide, and emerging onto black rocks. From this point, one of the most challenging sections of the route begins. Initially, they moved left along slabs, then upwards 6–7 m on rocks with few holds and with ice accretion, to the base of the black rock, then left along the edge of ice and rocks, passing an internal corner and, over a distance of 4–5 m along the wall, they reached a ledge (1). Rock hooks were used for belays. From the ledge, past a separate boulder — upwards (difficult climbing, broken rocks) they emerged right onto the central and not clearly defined counterfort (2), along which they continued to move, initially on its right side, then, approaching slabs with ice accretion, they crossed it and emerged under a small wall 4–5 m high.

Further up the wall — they reached its central part, directly approaching the pre-summit tower. Here, they set up the 2nd control cairn. From the 1st control cairn — 8–9 hours of walking. A sitting overnight stay is possible here.

From the cairn:

• right and up along a vertical wall, along a crevice (3),
• approached an overhanging rock,
• under it — left, crossing an internal corner,
• along the wall, they emerged onto a slab with a steepness of 70–80°,
• along the slab, following a fissure — they reached a wide ledge (possible bivouac — a tent can be set up; from the cairn — one rope).

From the ledge:

• 5–6 m upwards,
• then right, bypassing a rocky corner,
• along an internal corner, they emerged onto the summit of the pre-summit tower.

From here:

• upwards along rocks — they reached a ridge leading to the summit (4).

The ridge consists of rocks and ice and requires careful movement due to its broken nature and steepness of 50–55°. Along the 150–200 m long ridge, they reached the summit. From the original bivouac — 14–15 hours of walking.

From the summit:

• descent right along the scree ridge to a saddle between the 2nd Western peak of Sakashil-Bashi and a small "gendarme",
• bypassing the "gendarme" on the right in the direction of travel, they emerged into a small depression under the 1st Western peak.

In the depression:

• a convenient place for a bivouac,
• water is available.

From the depression:

• ascent to the 1st Western peak along a snow-ice slope, and then along broken rocks.

From the summit:

• along an ice-snow ridge — to Uzlovaya peak.

From Uzlovaya peak:

• along the ridge — ice, snow,
• descent to a snow-rock saddle,
• from which, along a snow slope, they descended to a bergschrund,
• crossed the bergschrund and further down to the plateau of the Zapadny Sakashil glacier,
• along the glacier, sticking to its right side, down to the "3500" pass and from it — to overnight stays.

Duration:

• descent from the summit of the 2nd Western Sakashil-Bashi to the bivouac — 2–3 hours,
• total from bivouac to bivouac — 16–17 hours.

Route Characteristics

The North wall of the 2nd Western Sakashil-Bashi represents a combined ice-rock route. Crampons are used for half of the route. Ice requires good skills in cramponing due to the high steepness, approximately 60–65°.

During the ice-rock section, 12 ice screws and 10 rock hooks were used for belays.

After the ice-rock section, serious work on rocks begins. Rocks are mostly monolithic and steep, approximately 70–80°. In some places, sections with 90° steepness are encountered. On rocks, hooks are often used not only for belays but also as artificial holds and grips. Frequent use of ice screws is possible due to wide cracks. Laddering on particularly steep sections is not excluded; there are no ledges for belays, except when approaching the base of the pre-summit tower, where a ledge was used for belay. On other sections, rock and ice screws were used.

Throughout the route, about 20 ice screws and approximately 40 rock hooks were used, mainly long rock hooks.

There are only two places on the entire route where the whole group can gather:

• at the 1st control cairn;
• one rope (40 m) above the 2nd control cairn, where a wide ledge allows for a bivouac setup.

The height difference from the base to the summit is approximately 600 m.

Comparing this route with routes of the 5th category of difficulty, participants believe that the route fully corresponds to the 5A category.

The route is very similar to the route on Dzhailyk via the Southwest wall, climbed by a group shortly before ascending Sakashil-Bashi.

In terms of length, the most technically challenging part of the route on Dzhailyk-Bashi is no longer than on Sakashil-Bashi, and is even less difficult in many aspects. Comparing it with the route on Pik Ural, which was a previously climbed 5A category route and is a short technical route, we consider Sakashil-Bashi to present a more challenging combined route with a larger amount of ice. For these reasons, the group evaluates the route as 5A category.

Recommendations:

Group composition — 4–6 people.

Equipment (for a group of 4):

• Main rope — 2×40 m
• Crampons — 2–3 pairs
• Hammers — 3–4 pcs.
• Ice axes — 4 pcs. or 3 pcs. + 1 ice axe
• Repschnur — 5 m × 6 pcs.
• Ice screws — 8 pcs.
• Rock hooks — 15 pcs.
• Carabiners — 12–15 pcs.
• 3-step ladder — 1 pc.
• Helmets — 4 pcs.
• Tents — 1 pc.

Possible overnight stay locations:

• on the ledge of the pre-summit tower;
• in the depression under the 1st Western peak.

Description compiled by: group leader: (Drobot S.Yu.)

Appendices:

1. Table of characteristic route sections
2. Route profile
3. Photos — 9 pcs.

Table of Characteristics of Route Sections

on the 2nd Western peak of Sakashil-Bashi via the North wall