PHOTO # 9: Morning view of the Altus massif from the North (August 1998) PHOTO # 10: Morning view from the East on the left northern ridge of Altus (May 1998). The described route is shown by a solid line on both photographs. ASCENT DOCUMENT # 4 Class: ROCK CLIMB Region: TIEN-SHAN, Ugam ridge Peak: ALTUS Height: 3200 m (according to KTMGV-89) Route and proposed category of difficulty: via the left northern ridge of Altus 3200, 2B (rock) (A. Yusev, 1998)

PASSPORT

1. Class — rock climbing
2. Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge.
3. Ascent of peak "4200" via the North Edge, first ascent.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B.
5. Height difference: 720 m, route length: 960 m, of which 5–6 category of difficulty: 420 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 60°.
6. Pitons used: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 60 | — | 25 | — |

I. Rock class. 2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, "Sairam" gorge. 3. "4200" peak, via the North-Eastern wall. 4. Proposed - 6B cat. of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference - 870 m, length - 1080 m. The length of sections with 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 750 m, of which 5B-6B cat. of difficulty - 680 m. The average steepness of the main sections - 80°, of which 6B cat. of difficulty - 312 m (3230–3365), (3560–3610), (3650–3730). 6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Rock class
2. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge
3. Peak 4200 (Kyzylbash), via the left part of the NE wall
4. Proposed — 6B category, first ascent
5. Height difference: 695 m, length — 755 m, length of sections 5–6 category — 465 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 82° (3540–3990)
6. Pitons hammered in: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :-------- | :----------- | :---------- | :-------- | | 119/22 | 37/13 | 87/16 | 0 |

I. Climbing type: rock, 2. Climbing area: Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge, 3. Sairam Peak, 4238 m, via Central Bastion of North Face, rock climbing, 4. Proposed complexity category: 5B, 5. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 910 m,
• length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty — 565 m,
• average steepness — 68°,

6. Number of pitons: rock — 72, protection devices No. 124, ice — 0, bolt — 0

f. 590 05 4/4–892 35/60 ASCENT PASSPORT TO THE "SOLIDARITY" PEAK VIA S.W. COUNTERFORT OF S RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY (tentative).

1. TYPE OF ASCENT — rock climbing.
2. ASCENT AREA — South-West Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sairam-Su gorge.
3. PEAK — Solidarity, 3600 m via S.W. counterfort of S ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 3B.
5. Height difference — 1045 m, average steepness 45°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 12/0, ice — 0/0, bolted — 0/0, utilized chocks — 4/1.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area, ridge - Archa-Kanysh gorge, Altai ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - peak XXII Olympiad, 4470 m, via the left part of the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category - 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 750 m of which: eastern wall - 455 m length of sections - 550 m 5B-6B difficulty category

Ascent Passport

I. Class: rock 2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge 3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South wall 4. Difficulty category: 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1020 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty cat.: 890 m average steepness: 70°

Ascent Report

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Para-Kazyk gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Alaudin (Dostuk) peak — 5214 m; left part of the Eastern wall, first ascent
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference: total — 1200 m, wall section — 510 m, average steepness of the wall section — 45°
6. Driven pitons: rock, chocks, ice screws, bolts. For belay: rock 69, chocks 101.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge, Koksu gorge.
3. Peak Ya. Kreuksa (4634 m) via the "perо". First ascent, approximately 5B category of difficulty.
4. The route is rocky.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 950 m.
   • wall section — 450 m.
   • length — 1420 m.
   • length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 410 m.