f. 590 05 4/4–892 35/60

ASCENT PASSPORT TO THE "SOLIDARITY" PEAK VIA S.W. COUNTERFORT OF S RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY (tentative).

1. TYPE OF ASCENT — rock climbing.
2. ASCENT AREA — South-West Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sairam-Su gorge.
3. PEAK — Solidarity, 3600 m via S.W. counterfort of S ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 3B.
5. Height difference — 1045 m, average steepness 45°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 12/0, ice — 0/0, bolted — 0/0, utilized chocks — 4/1.
7. Climbing time — 12 hours.
8. Number of bivouacs — 7.
9. Leader — Smertev V.A. (2nd sports category), participants — Belov E.A. (2nd sports category).
10. Team coach — Korolsky N.M.
11. Departure to the route — May 3, 1988. Return from the route — May 3, 1988.
12. THE ASCENT WAS CONDUCTED UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE Kazakhstan Club of Alpinists in the rock climbing category.

Solidarity

Routes to the Solidarity peak:

• Ascent route
• Category 4B difficulty route
• Category 4A difficulty route

APPROACH FROM THE BASE CAMP TO THE "SOLIDARITY" PEAK TAKES 4 climbing hours via a good trail. The route begins via a pronounced snowy (scree in summer) couloir: after 80 m, we move left to moderately difficult rocks.

• Protection via ledges.
• At the end of the section, there is a shelf convenient for belaying.
• The next 60 m are climbed with piton protection.
• Be careful — many loose rocks.

We reach the wall via a rocky ridge with simple rocks. Belay points are convenient.

• Rocks are complex, thorough belaying is necessary.
• Chocks can be used.

Further along the ridge, we reach a small wall:

• Piton and ledge protection.

Along the ridge and simple rocks (simultaneous movement is possible), we approach the wall:

• One rope length of rather difficult climbing.
• Piton protection.
• Chocks were used to pass the section.
• At the end of the section, there is a convenient belay point (fixed rope can be organized).

Further:

• Another not very steep wall (35–40 m).
• Piton and ledge protection.
• We reach a simple ridge (200 m) leading directly to the summit.
• Simultaneous movement.

Descent from the summit to the south.

Route elements (diagram):

• 200 m, 25° (II)
• 35 m, 55° (III)
• 40 m, 65° (IV)
• 120 m, 35° (II)
• 80 m, 35° (II)
• 40 m, 35° (III)
• 40 m, 30° (II)
• 60 m, 75° (IV)
• 80 m, 35° (II)
• 60 m, 50° (II)
• 80 m, 45° (II)
• 80 m, 60° (III)
• 10 m, 15° (I)
• 40 m, 50° (III)
• 80 m, 40°

The approach from the base camp to the start of the route takes 3 hours via a good trail along the river to the waterfall. Then, left along the gorge, bypassing "Solidarity," approach the grassy slope and ascend to the col to the I control cairn — this is the start of the route. The first ridge is 40 m with a steepness of 25–30° and is climbed simultaneously. Then, there are two inclined sections of 30 m, 45°. Then, along the couloir along the ridge 100 m and exit to the ridge 30 m, 65°. We find ourselves on a ledge. The rock wall is 40 m, 65° (fixed rope organization); we exit to the ridge. The route continues along the ridge 40 m (simultaneously), we approach the wall — 5 m, 75–80°, and find ourselves under the small tower. The ascent to the small tower is 35 m, 65°; 10 m, 85° is climbed directly (fixed rope), rocks are smooth with tiny ledges. We reach a good ledge (2nd control cairn). Along the large scree ledge, we ascend to the wall of the "Red Tower," the key section. The ascent begins with a 50 m, 85° traverse, complex climbing of the 5th category. We find ourselves at a cleft 40 m, 45°, via which we exit to a good ledge "Red Tower." Then, along the 30 m couloir, we exit to the ridge (simultaneous movement, 3rd control point), under the ridge, we approach the gendarme, which we bypass to the left and exit to the ridge 80 m (alternate belaying). Along the scree slope, we exit to heavily destroyed rocks with a steepness of 50°, rocks are wet, icy. Then, exit to the ridge with a steepness of 70°, 40 m (fixed rope) with an exit to a good ledge. Further, 50 m along the scree ledge, approach to the couloir 30 m, 35–40°. Exit right along the couloir to the pre-summit ridge 40 m, 35–40°, and exit to the "Solidarity" summit. Descent to the south. The entire route takes 10 hours.