It seems logical to avoid these walls and go around them, even though the ice in the upper part is steep, because the rocks here are heavily destroyed and climbing them is not pleasant. After reaching the ridge, it is necessary to change into shoes with rubber soles, as trekking boots do not hold at all on the limestone rocks that make up the summit rocks. The first two ropes along the ridge pass through heavily destroyed rocks, with short walls in some places. We come to a 30-meter wall, which we climb through a crack in the middle part. The crack can be approached via an inclined rock-ice platform. After the crack, there is a platform, and on it, another rope of rocks leads to the beginning of the ice ridge running from the northeast to the summit dome. After climbing just over 5 ropes, it is necessary to change back into crampons and ice axes, as the route continues on ice to the summit. The lower part of the ice ridge is a system of muldas and vertical ice walls up to 4-6 m high, bounded on the left by rocks that drop down steeply to the southeast, and on the right by a steep (up to 60°) ice-snow slope of the pre-summit ridge. After 80 m, we reach a relatively gentle part of the ridge. Now there is also snow and ice on the left, with a mulda below. We ascend along this ridge, moving simultaneously, to the pre-summit plateau, and from there to the summit. The length of the upper part of the ridge is about 120 m. The pre-summit plateau is a wide rock bowl filled with thawed ice, with talus shelves on the left. It is possible to spend the night here. It takes 15-20 minutes to reach the summit from here. The descent from the summit is in the direction of the pass between the peaks Zindon and SOAN.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: High-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Chimtarga, 5498 m, via the Eastern Counterfort
4. Expected difficulty category: 4B category, combined
5. Route description:
   • Ridge height difference (by altimeter) – 1300 m
   • On the ridge, there are 5 walls with a total height difference (10 m, 40 m, 25 m, 30 m, 40 m) – 145 m and an average steepness of 70°
   • Length of sections:
     • 5 km — 10 m

Route Description

Ascent to v. Malaya Ganza via the northwestern ridge, category 2B. From the base camp, move up the valley along the left (orographic) bank of the Arg river. Cross the Suvtor river, which flows from the northwestern glacier (1 hour's walk from the camp), and continue along its left bank to the Yashnovaya river (30 minutes from the Suvtor river crossing). The path goes up a steep rocky scree. Move along the left (orographic) bank of the Yashnovaya river to the north, towards the "ram's foreheads" (baran'i lby). The "ram's foreheads" are steep and slippery; it's possible to move without being roped up, but with caution (snowy scree, rockfall, and heavily glaciated "ram's foreheads"):

• Snowy scree
• Rockfall
• "Ram's foreheads" are heavily glaciated Beyond the first stage of the "ram's foreheads", there's another scree slope, which is moderate and steep. To the left, the "ram's foreheads" continue as a ridge. Move up the scree slope and a cascade of waterfalls that descend from the next stage of the "ram's foreheads". Caution is necessary on this section due to rockfall and potential icefall, as the path lies beneath the tongue of the glacier.

In the up­per reaches, the val­ley is nar­rowed by snow, there are few trails. View of the summit and saddle see Fig. I. From the bivouac to Gusev's saddle — 4–4.5 hours of walking. From Gusev's saddle, move straight up in the direction of and along the ridge between Pik Chyorny and v. N. Ganz. At the glacier's ascent, there are many hazardous sections on the ridge, partially covered with snow. Movement without crampons is possible. One should move in rope teams, with occasional use of transverse belay. From the ridge, move left onto the snowy ascent (2 ropes), then to the summit (2 ropes), which is a rocky ridge: to the north and northeast — a firn dome, divided by a small saddle into western and eastern summits, both having small rocky outcrops. The summit drops off with sheer rocky walls to the north and southwest. Time from Gusev's saddle to the summit — 2–2.5 hours. In good weather, the summit offers a panorama of all the peaks in the Sansarsky Mountains system. To the northeast, the massive array of Bolshaya Gavza is visible, along with the spurs of the pyramid of Pik Krasnykh Zor. To the north and northeast are visible:

• Pik Chyorny,
• p. Zarnok,
• Meropo,
• v. Chintarga,
• p. Energiya,

descent on a rope with leaving a loop. Further descent along the couloir and osnam bypassing the gendarme Amna-Krun to the pass between the peaks Moskva and Sakharnaya Golova. From the pass, descent to the Akhbasoy glacier. The travel time from the saddle between the peaks and the gendarme to the Akhbasoy glacier is about 4–6 hours.

Recommendations

I. It's better to start the ascent up the snow-ice slope to the gendarme not later than 7:00–7:30 am, when the snow is not too soft. When ascending from the saddle to the summit, have:

• one pair of crampons
• non-frozen sneakers

Photo 1. Panorama of the Tutek massif from the Samjon river valley Photo 2. MSU peak from the start of the route Photo 3. Overcoming the bergschrund (section 4230–4240) Photo 5. The same (view back) Photo 4. Traversing the snow-ice slope (section 4240–4340)

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT ROUTE TO THE "GLAVNAYA IGLA" SUMMIT VIA THE SOUTHEAST SLOPE. 1969 Group composition: GLADILIN L.S. (leader), RUDNEV V.S., ABLESIMOV V.E., GITERMAN B.P. The Iglá summit is located in the Pamir-Alay mountains, at the junction of the:

• Alay range,
• Turkestan range,
• Zeravshan range (see diagram 1). The Iglá summit (see diagram 2, photo 1) is a massif consisting of three peaks, conditionally named:

The Kok-Bel spur, stretching in the meridional direction, separates the Kshemish and Purovskogo glaciers. Ascents to the peaks located in the spur are made:

• from the east - from the Kshemish glacier,
• from the west - from the Purrovskogo glacier,
• as well as from the passes connecting these glaciers. The transition from the base camp under the Kshemish glaciers to the assault camp in the upper reaches of the Purovsko glacier takes about 7 hours. At the same time, it is necessary to cross the snowy pass of Puroveko roughly 2B cat. The path through the Kiroksan pass takes significantly more time.

Critical Caucasus

II. Peak (4600 m) from the Purovskogo pass 3B cat.:

• April 22, 1969 — I. G. Lobkin, A. K. Kuzminikh April 28, 1969 — V. E. Eskarov, V. O. Panov From the assault camp on the Purovskogo glacier, the ascent is to the left of the Purovskogo pass to a snowy saddle, separated from the pass by a large mandarin. From the saddle, the path goes along:

3. Kshemish-Bashi (5230 m) — Ivanov Pass 45 km

July 22-25, 1969. L.A. Bolyaev, D.I. Morodorov, Z.O. Panomov, S.A. Ilyalg, L.N. Vyacheslavov, A.S. Mordekov The route starts from Ivanov Pass, connecting Kshemish glacier with Ak-Terek river valley. The ascent to the pass from the assault camp takes 1-1.5 hours and corresponds to approximately 25 km; snow up to 35°, ice in places. From Ivanov Pass, move along the boundary of rocks and snow, into the left part of the glacier, descending from the Eastern ridge of Kshemish-Bashi. After 1.5-2 hours of ascent, one should move to the right along a 6-meter steep ice slope crossing the entire width of the icefall. In its right part, there is an exit to the cirque of the upper terrace. Movement:

• with insurance through ice axe,
• crampons. Having overcome a large crevasse, located parallel to the slope, we move to the right under the rusty rocks of a large guandarma, located in the north-eastern counterfort. From the pass - 4-5 hours. In the upper part of the guandarma, there is a control point. Important:
• Overcoming the icefall only in the first half of the day!