Route Description

Ascent to Pik Severny (North Peak) category 3A difficulty 3A, via NW ridge, 4050 m. Pik Severny is located in the eastern part of the massif, situated above the Alaudin pass. The described route initially follows the NW ridge, where the D-3 ridge converges with the wall facing north, forming a protruding angle to the NW. The approach to the route from the Kulikalon lakes takes 2.5-3 hours. After 1-1.5 hours of ascent along the trail leading to the Alaudin pass, one needs to change direction to the right and upwards along the grassy ridge. The starting point of the route is a clearly defined and protruding rocky "peak" at the base of the route. A midpoint landmark on the ridge is the "brick" - a rectangular rocky outcrop; the destination is located to the left of it. From the rocky peak, proceed right and upwards for 1 rope length - alternating belay, using pitons and rock features, to a snowy-icy section. 2 pitons, start of the route at 10:10. Continue to make your way to the "brick" right and upwards. Before reaching 1/3 of the way to the "brick", there is a talus shelf on the right where the first control cairn is located under large stones. To the 1st control cairn, 3 rope lengths. (3 rope lengths, alternating belay, via outcrops, 3 pitons). From the 1st control cairn, proceed left and upwards to 2 large boulders - 1 rope length. From the 2 large boulders, make your way to a chimney with a plug - 1 rope length. (2 rope lengths, alternating belay, piton belay, 3 pitons, via outcrops). From the plug, 2 rope lengths lead to the exit onto the NW ridge. Continue simultaneously along the ridge, with the slope to one side, towards the summit.

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category 2. Pamir-Alay. Northern part of Fann Mountains. Surkhob valley. 3. Peak 4100 m (Surkhob) via the eastern wall. 4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, first ascent. 5. Height difference 1030 m, route length 1250 m. Length of sections:

• 5 category of difficulty — 1000 m
• 6 category of difficulty — 400 m Average slope of the route 62°. Average slope of the wall section of the route 70°.

2. Climbing area — Fan Mountains. 3. Summit — Tashkentent — 3900 m via the North Ridge. 4. Presumed difficulty category — 2A. 5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 500 m. b) average steepness — 45°. c) length of sections with 5th difficulty category — none. 6. Pitons hammered for belay: - rock pitons — 4 pcs. - ice screws — none.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Zarafshan Range, Fann Mountains,
3. Summit — Timur, 3900 m, via the eastern ridge, from Zapadny Kitudak Pass, new route.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 300 m; average slope — 45°; route — combined.
6. Pitons hammered in:
   • for belaying: rock — 12, chocks — 4, ice screws — 8.
   • For artificial climbing aids — none.
7. Duration of ascent — 9 hours.

The arch is located to the right and above (I50 m) of the cave. There is a control tour on the arch. The exit from the cave to the right seems easier, but having passed a relatively simple rope, one has to overcome three ropes of difficult climbing with an exit to the same main arch. The right variant of the exit from the cave is more complicated than the left one. From the control tour upwards along grey rocks with black streaks and further along the system of shelves and rocks of medium difficulty to the left and upwards to the grey-yellow rock protruding from the wall (three ropes from the tour). From the arch between the wall and the grey-yellow rock

• ascent upwards along the inner corner with a slight overhang in the upper part. Further:

9. Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Class

• Rock climbing.

2. Ascent Area

• Fann Mountains, northern ridge of the nodal peak Aurondag in the Zarafshan Range.

3. Urech Peak, height 3400 m, route

• via the spur of the northeastern wall.

4. Proposed difficulty category

• 4B.

5. Height difference 690 m, average steepness — 65°–70°

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
3. v. Urech (3400 m) via the right part of the North face
4. Proposed 5B category, second ascent
5. Height difference 700 m. Route length 955 m. Length of section with 6 category difficulty – 95 m. Length of sections with 4–5 category difficulty – 395 m. Average steepness of the wall part of the route 66°
6. Pitons hammered: rock 31

V. Fagitor, 3A, via the Southern Ridge (V. Babeshko route)

Climbing category: rock climbing. Climbing area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Mt. Fagitor (3900 m), 3A, via the Southern Ridge. Difficulty category: 3A. Route characteristics: — elevation gain — 600 m.

Route Description

PASSPORT

I. Technical class. 2. Fann Mountains. Zeravshan ridge (Northern part). Alaudin lakes. 3. Chapdara peak (5050 m) via Eastern edge. 4. Category 5B (Cherevko route). 5. Elevation gain: about 1800 m. Route length 2875 m. Length of sections with U–U1 difficulty: 564 m. Average slope of the route — 57°. Average slope of the wall section — 62°. 6. Pitons hammered: rock 101 (2 used), bolted 6, chocks 154 (6 used), ice screws 3.

Peak Chaplygina, 4500 m

From the overnight spot near the moraine under Chimtarga we enter the glacier under the ridge between Peak Chaplygina and Peak SO AN — 1 hour. Ascent to the ridge along the edge of the snowfield and talus (40 minutes) without a rope. On the ridge, beware of falling. Further, the path goes along the ridge with a detour around several gendarmes via ledges on the right. Insurance is alternating, through выступы (ledges or rock projections). The ridge leads to a wall with a steepness of 60–70°. Along a narrow stone ledge to the right of the ridge, two ropes with alternating insurance (2 pitons) lead to the beginning of a wide, steep chimney. Here the entire group can be accommodated. The 1st control cairn is also located here. Further, up the steep, not very pronounced chimney, sometimes interrupted by sheer 3–4 m walls, 6 ropes. Insurance is via pitons. Caution! Falling rocks! Entrance under an arch, which is bypassed on the right. Up, half a rope — a large spacious balcony with stone railings, from which there is a beautiful view of Chimtarga. On the balcony, the 2nd control cairn is set up. The path from the ridge to the 2nd control cairn takes 4 hours 30 minutes. From the balcony, 40 m of very difficult maneuvering. First, along an existing crevice, then exit to a sharp crest leading to a dangerous, talus-filled couloir. Along the couloir — to an inclined slab, and exit, bypassing the slab, to a talus ledge under an overhanging rock. These 40 m are traversed in 1.5–2 hours. Along the ledges, we traverse left and enter a steep rock gully with smoothed stones — 30 m, and further along a not difficult, destroyed ridge — exit to the summit (1 hour). Further along the ridge — the second summit. On both summits — cairns. Descent is via the ascent route. The entire path to the summit from the overnight spot — 9–10 hours. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• 2 ropes, 40 m each
• 40 m of accessory cord (repschnur)