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Route Description: 3 гребню
### Ascent Route to Sovetsky Voyn Peak (4052 m) #### Category 2A Complexity in Prielbrusye A detailed guide including the path, necessary gear, and duration for climbers.
Description
Climbing route to the summit SOVIETSKY VOIN 2A category of complexity. The summit elevation is 4052 m. The Soviet Voïn peak is located in the Eastern spur of Elbrus. From the junction of the Baksan valley and the Adyl-Su gorge, take the road to the settlement of Elbrus, located at the entrance to the Irik-Chat gorge. Follow the lower trail on the right bank of the Irik-Chat river upstream through the gorge. The trail goes along a grassy slope past sand pillars and small forests to the confluence of the Irik and Chat rivers. At the forest boundary, there are "Lower Camps" (3-3.5 hours from the Adyl-Su tourist center). Then the trail goes up to the right along a steep grassy slope (40 minutes - 1 hour) and leads to a large stone on a flat area - "Middle Camps". From here, the ascent follows the trail along a grassy slope, then through the "Verbliud" (Camel) - a steep grassy slope - the trail comes out onto a moraine and further along the moraine and snowy slope to the saddle between the Soviet Voïn peak and the Kezgen-Bashi peak. The exit to the saddle is to the right of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the "Middle Camps" to the saddle - 3-3.5 hours. From the saddle, ascend to the left up the inner corner 5-6 m. Piton belay. Then, along simple rocks upwards in the direction of the ridge to the second inner corner. Traverse below the inner corner and up its right side 5-6 m. Then move onto a slab to the right and along the slab to a large protruding stone. From the stone, along moderately difficult rocks 20-25 m, reach a sharp ridge crest, from which then move onto a smooth inclined slab leading to the ridge of the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the ridge - piton belay, handrail. Then along the ridge (simple rocks) ascend to the Soviet Voïn peak. From the saddle to the summit - 1-1.5 hours.
Route Description: С гребню
Report on the first ascent to the summit of Kezgen via the 2A category route by the FRI-LINE MAC team from Pyatigorsk on 11.06.2021
Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for Classification Report Report Form for Routes of 1B–3B Category of Difficulty
Report
ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT KEZGEN VIA ROUTE 2A CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "Freeline" Pyatigorsk 11.06.2021
I. Ascent Passport
| No. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Popov M.L., CMS |
Route Description: СВ гребню
Report on the first ascent of the route of the 2nd category of complexity to the top of Mukal via the north-eastern ridge, made by the MAC "Freeline" team in June 2021.
Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT MUKAL VIA ROUTE 2A CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "Freeline" FROM PYATIGORSK ON JUNE 10, 2021
I. Ascent Passport
| No. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Popov M.L. CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants | Khlyshch G.A. 2nd sports rank Lustina S.V. 2nd sports rank Kovalev R.A. 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the Coach | Motienko N.I. CMS |
| 1.4 | Organization | MAC "Freeline" |
Route Description: С стене
Report on the first ascent of the route category 2B on the peak **Mukal** via the north wall, made by the team MAK “Freeline” on 12.06.2021.
Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for a Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF MUKAL VIA THE ROUTE OF 2B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAK "Freeline" Pyatigorsk, June 12, 2021
I. Climbing Passport
| No. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, sports rank of the leader | Popov M.L. CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, sports rank of the participants | Khlyshch G.A. 2nd sports rank, Lustina S.V. 2nd sports rank, Kovalev R.A. 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the coach | Motienko N.I. CMS |
| 1.4 | Organization | MAK "Freeline" |
Route Description: По ЮВ стене
Report on the first ascent of the route category 3B on the peak Sovetsky Voyn by the MAC "Freeline" team on August 29, 2022
Appendix No. 1 to the Unified Requirements for Classification Report Report Form for Routes 1B–3B Category of Difficulty REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT Sovetskiy Voyn VIA THE ROUTE OF 3B CATEGORY OF DIFFICULTY BY THE TEAM OF MAC "FREELINE" PYATIGORSK ON AUGUST 29, 2022
I. Climbing Passport
| No. | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Popov M.L., CMS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants | Semenov M.A., MS Khadzhimustafarov M.A., 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full Name of the Coach | Motienko N.I., CMS |
| 1.4 | Organization | MAC "Freeline" |
Route Description: СВ стене
Report on the first ascent of a category 3A route on the North-Eastern wall of peak Kavkaz West (4037 m) in February 2020.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Pik Kavkaz Zapadny (4037 m) — first passage of the route via the North-Eastern wall, cat. diff. 3A by the team St. Petersburg-2 from February 2 to 3, 2020.
I. Ascent Report
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Nikolayev Yuriy Aleksandrovich — 2nd sports rank |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | 1. Bogdanov Kirill Anatolyevich — 1st sports rank 2. Eliseev Sergey Gennadyevich — 2nd sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Erofeev Sergey Andreyevich — Candidate Master of Sports |
| 1.4 | Organization | Alpine club "Tekhnolog" (St. Petersburg team) |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: С склону
Report on the first ascent of a Category 3B route on the North face of Pik Kavkaz Centralny (4105 m) in August 2019 by a team from the Technolog Alpine Club.
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Pik Kavkaz Tsentralny (4105 m) - the first ascent of the route via the North slope, category 3B, by the team of alpine club "Tekhnolog" on August 2, 2019. Participants:
- Barabashov A.A.
- Shabelnikov S.V. St. Petersburg, 2020
I. Ascent Passport
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Barabashov Anton Alekseevich, Master of Sports |
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the first ascent of Peak MNR (SW) via the Eastern ridge, category 3B, by the Shkhelda alpine camp team on August 15, 2022.
Report
on the first ascent of Peak MNR (SW) via the Eastern ridge, category 3B, by the team of alplager "SHKhelda" on July 15, 2022
I. Ascent Log
| № | 1. General Information | |
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich, Candidate Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of the participants | 1. Murzich Alexander Yuryevich, 3rd category 2. Kovshik Vladimir Leonidovich, 3rd category 3. Titova Natalia Yuryevna, 3rd category |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich |
| 1.4 | Organization | LLC "SHKhelda" (alplager "SHKhelda") |
| 2. Characteristics of the ascent object |
Route Description: Траверс
Report on the first ascent of a traverse of three peaks in the Caucasus, category 3A, completed by a group from the Shkhelda alpine camp on July 28, 2022.
Report
on the first ascent of the traverse of three peaks:
- p. 3657
- peak 3472 (peak Novorossiysk)
- p. 3440 (Bivachnaya) 3A cat. diff. by the group of alplager "SHKhelda" on July 28, 2022 Participants:
- Korolev A.V.
- Dedyukhin M.E.
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the first ascent of Peak 3545 via the Eastern Ridge, category 2B, accomplished by the Shkhelda alpine camp group on June 23, 2021.
Report
on the first ascent of Peak 3545 (Peak Yubileiny) via the East Ridge, category 2B, by the team from the "SHKELDA" alpine camp June 21, 2021
I. Ascent Passport
| № item | 1. General Information | |||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the leader | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich, CMS | ||||||||
| 1.2 | Full name, sports rank of participants | 1. Belousov Alexey Georgievich, 3rd sports rank 2. Buyanov Yan Viktorovich, 2nd sports rank 3. Prigolovkina Alla Igorevna, 3rd sports rank 4. Rabdanov Bator Tsybanovich, 3rd sports rank | ||||||||
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Korolev Alexander Viktorovich | ||||||||
| 1.4 | Organization | LLC "SHKELDA" (alpine camp "SHKELDA") |