Ascent Passport

1. Climbing Category
   • Rock Climbing
2. Climbing Region
   • Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge
3. Climbing Route
   • Southwest peak of Zamin-Karor 3709 m
4. Difficulty Category
   • 5B
5. Ascent Characteristics

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — Rock climbing II. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Hissar mountain range III. Ascent route — Zamin Karor peak, 3709 m, R0–R3 summit via the center of the West wall IV. Ascent characteristics elevation gain — 1150 m (total route elevation gain), steepness — 80° length of difficult sections — 940 m, including the lower rock belt — 1400 m) V. Pitons used: rock — 204, ice — none, bolted — 4

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 103 Zamin-Karor, 3707 m, via the left part of the western wall's kar, V. Popov route 4. Difficulty category — 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference 972 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 992 m, average steepness — 84°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belay/ETO rock — 143/35 ice — 0/0 bolt — 2/1

Passport

I. Category of Rock Climbing Ascensions 2. Gissar Ridge, Zamin Karor South-Western 3. Zamin Karor South-Western peak via the Western wall 4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5B, first ascent 5. Height difference 860 m, route length 890 m Length of sections:

• Category 5 difficulty: 520 m, average steepness 79.23°
• Category 6 difficulty: 180 m, average steepness 86.7°

6. Pitons hammered in:

54

Description of the Traverse

V. Igizak (2A cat. dif.) V. Igizak is located in the southern spur of the Gissarsky Ridge and is the 20th peak to the west of the M. Igizak pass (the first from the pass is v. M. Igizak). From the overnight stay on the green meadow located under v. Bivachnaya, it is necessary to move up along the right bank of the Igizak river in the direction of the M. Igizak pass. The path goes along grassy slopes and scree, and after an hour's walk, you can approach the snowfields under the M. Igizak pass. To the right, a snow corrie diverges, along which you should ascend into the cirque of the Dvukhzubki and Igizak peaks. This ascent takes about an hour. From the east, the peak drops off with sheer rock walls of 500–600 m. By bypassing v. Igizak (leaving it to the left), you should exit onto its southwest ridge. The ascent to the summit from the ridge is combined (rock and snow), technically simple, and takes 30–40 min. The height of the peak above sea level is about 4200 m. The descent from the summit can be made along the Southeast ridge, starting from the southwest subsidiary summit, from where you should first descend for 15–30 min. along a narrow couloir with further exit onto the ridge. Along the ridge, the path goes with alternate belay with a predominant exit to the right along the way. There are several short rock walls that can be passed with alternate belay. The further path passes along the ledges, to the right along the way with uncomplicated rocks, and leads to the Nayzakhba pass, from where we descend to the overnight stay. The entire traverse of v. Igizak from the overnight stay on the green meadow and back takes 6–7 hours.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, spur of the Hissar mountain range, Khodzha Mofrach.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — unnamed, 4400 m, via the North Ridge (Kazan University Peak).
4. Difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: a. height difference — 220 m. b. average steepness — 40°. c. length of sections: total — 365 m, 2nd difficulty category — 210 m, 3rd difficulty category — 140 m, 4th difficulty category — 15 m.
6. Pitons used: rock — 5, ice — none, bolted — none, nut/hex — 2.

II. Kapandor. From the West

Description of the ascent via route category 2A.

I. Approaches

From the Ziddy settlement, it takes 1.5 hours to reach the beginning of the Kapandor gorge. A summer hydrometeorological post is located here. The trail goes uphill along the Ziddinka River. From the overnight stay, follow the left (in the direction of travel) side of the stream flowing from the east, then move to the next parallel gorge (1.5 hours) and up to the Kolandor pass (1.5 hours).

II. Ascent

The route goes from the Kolandor pass along easy rocks, bypassing a short ridge coming from the summit on the right (left). The movement is simultaneous. The ascent leads to this ridge. Further, a rocky chute (1x50 m) and two walls (2x30 m) lead to the pre-summit ridge. On these sections, the movement is alternating, the rocks are easy and moderately difficult, with protection provided by rock outcrops. Movement along the ridge is simultaneous. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent from the pass takes 4 hours, and the descent takes 1.5 hours. The first ascent was made in June 1970 by a group consisting of: Tkachov V.K. — Candidate for Master of Sports Lavruhin V.I. — Candidate for Master of Sports Yarashev N.M. — 2nd category

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, spur of the Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — I tower of the Siama Crown, 3950 m, via the bastion from the east. 4. Difficulty category (assumed) — 3B 5. Route characteristics: a. height difference of the wall section — 260 m; b. total height difference — 400 m; c. average steepness of the wall section — 60°; d. length of sections:

Ascent via the North Edge from the Molodaya Gvardiya Glacier — cat. diff. 2B (4394 m) (fig. 10)

In the southern part of the Malo-Almatinsky spur, which is the watershed of the Bolshaya Almatinka and Levy Talgar rivers, rises the majestic ice-snow pyramid of the Molodaya Gvardiya peak. Fig. 10 The most convenient approach paths to the route are via the Ozerny valley to the Gryazny Glacier. The initial bivouac is organized on the moraine of the glacier. Moving along the right side of the glacier and overcoming a series of crevasses, one exits onto a relatively gentle section at the foot of the northern slope. Continue the ascent up the ice slope with a steepness of up to 40° to the first sentinel on the northern edge of the peak massif. Cats are required on this section. Having overcome the bergschrund and a small icefall, approach the heavily destroyed rocks. Then proceed along the edge; the rocks are of medium difficulty, and exit onto the main North Edge, which approaches the first sentinel. There are cornices on the eastern side of the ridge (be cautious!). The sentinel, up to 20 m high, is bypassed on the right via cut steps in an ice gully, with a steepness of up to 50° and a length of 20–25 m. After ascending onto a very sharp ridge, within 15 minutes one can approach the second sentinel, which is up to 50 m high. After a terrace, there is an exit onto a small steep scree leading to rocks of medium difficulty and onto a steep snowfield ending in a small cornice. To exit onto the ridge via the cornice, a diagonal cutting is necessary.

REPORT

on the ascent to peak Arsen in the western part of the northern wall (first ascent), category 5B difficulty, of the Sports Committee team of the Kazakh SSR Team members:

• 30/11-77
• Denisenko A.A.
• Vorobyov A.S. Western Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge 1977 www.alpfederation.ru

Approach to the route