II. Kapandor. From the West

Description of the ascent via route category 2A.

I. Approaches

From the Ziddy settlement, it takes 1.5 hours to reach the beginning of the Kapandor gorge. A summer hydrometeorological post is located here. The trail goes uphill along the Ziddinka River. From the overnight stay, follow the left (in the direction of travel) side of the stream flowing from the east, then move to the next parallel gorge (1.5 hours) and up to the Kolandor pass (1.5 hours).

II. Ascent

The route goes from the Kolandor pass along easy rocks, bypassing a short ridge coming from the summit on the right (left). The movement is simultaneous. The ascent leads to this ridge. Further, a rocky chute (1x50 m) and two walls (2x30 m) lead to the pre-summit ridge. On these sections, the movement is alternating, the rocks are easy and moderately difficult, with protection provided by rock outcrops. Movement along the ridge is simultaneous. Descent is via the ascent route. The ascent from the pass takes 4 hours, and the descent takes 1.5 hours.

The first ascent was made in June 1970 by a group consisting of:

Tkachov V.K. — Candidate for Master of Sports Lavruhin V.I. — Candidate for Master of Sports Yarashev N.M. — 2nd category Kislov Yu. — 3rd category Mavrikova L. — 3rd category

We request to confirm category 2A.

Kapandor from the north.