On simple rocks, 60 m straight up to the first control cairn in a rope team. From the cairn, on black monolithic rocks of medium difficulty, 80 m straight up to the base of a pronounced inner corner. Then:

• 40 m to the right of the corner on rocks of above average difficulty;
• then bypassing a black-rigid spall on the right;
• exit to the ridge of the buttress. Protection is by pitons. Further along the left side of the ridge:
• 40 m on rocks of medium difficulty;
• 80 m on easy rocks — exit left under a 10-meter chimney. After the chimney — move right into an inner corner and 40 m of climbing of medium difficulty — exit to the ridge of the buttress under a gendarme with a red rock on it.

Ascent Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range, Alauddin valley
3. p. Zamok, 5070 m, via West Face, Ilyin V. route
4. Difficulty category: 5A
5. Height difference: 650 m. Length: 1330 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 52°. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 300–350 m.
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Nuts | Friends |

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, East Fan Range 3. Zamok (5070 m) — via the shortest path on the NNE wall 4. Proposed complexity category — 5B 5. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m Length of the wall section — 1115 m. Total route length — 1675 m. Length of sections with VI category difficulty — 890 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67° 6. Pitons used:

• Rock pitons: III/5
• Bolt pitons: 2

The group started the route on July 8, 1977. Ahead of us, two days earlier, the group of "Artuch" tourist club, led by, started on the same route on July 8, 1977. First Day

• Departure from the bivouac on the moraine under the route at 5:30 am.
• We walked 100 m of a snowy slope and approached the bergschrund filled with snow.
• Further ascent to a snow-ice shelf, which leads to the left edge of the rock wall of the I belt. From the snow shelf, we ascended to a 35 m internal vertical corner with an overhanging wall, which leads to a small steep shelf. Above the shelf, the internal corner continues straight up for 30 m and ends with an overhang. Then, we moved left to a crack, leading to the beginning of the slab, bypassing the exit to a large stone on the snow shelf, as the first ascenders did (Emelyanenko Yu.). This deviation from the path of the first ascenders does not simplify the route and seems more logical under our conditions. The edge of the slab forms a steep internal corner with the wall, covered with flow ice, with a cornice and smooth walls. Ascent to the slab:
• Initially, through the right part of the crack (crevice), and then through the left
• Exit to steep blocky rocks, through which we ascended to the top of the slab. Here, we bivouacked at 17:00.

PASSPORT

1. Technical category.
2. Fann Mountains. Zeravshan Range. /Northern part./ Alaudin Lakes.
3. p. Zamok (5070) via the right part of the northern wall of the "bastion"
4. cat. III (Arkhipov's route)
5. Height difference 1270 m, route length — 2142 m. Length of sections — R0–R1 cat. III — 851 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 78°
6. Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

1. Pamiro-Alai, Zeravshan ridge, Fann Mountains. 5.3.1
2. v. Parandas 4250 m via the center of the North face
3. First ascent, proposed 6A category of complexity
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference: 850 m, wall part 780 m.
6. Route length 1280 m, main part 890 m. Sections of 6th category 470 m. Sections of 5th category 180 m. Average steepness of the wall part 80°.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
3. Peak Rudaki, 4400 m, via the East wall.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Pitons used: rock — 32, bolt — 0, chocks — 31.
6. Climbing hours — 15, days — 1.
7. Leader — RAIL GALEEV — Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: ALEXANDER MIROSHKIN — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR TELITCYNS — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR RUSINOV — 1st sports category.
8. Coach — EVGENY MIROSHKIN.

Ascent Report to Peak Rufina via the Southeast Ridge

First ascent. Cat. 2B.

• Route classification: Technical.
• Mountain region: Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range. Alaudin Valley.
• Peak name, height, route: Peak Rufina (4150 m), via the 3rd ridge.
• Cat. sl.: 2B.
• Elevation gain: from the start of the route to the summit – approximately 400 m. Wall section – 300 m. Average steepness of the wall section – 40°.
• Equipment on the route: 1 rope 10 mm × 50 m. Anchor pitons – 5 pcs., chocks – set, cams – 6 pcs., pitons – 5 pcs., 2 sets of trekking poles.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — V. SARYSHKH, 4650 m, via the northern wall of the eastern ridge, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 4B. 5. Route characteristics: total elevation gain — 650 m, wall section elevation gain — 375 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 280 m, average slope of the entire route — 40°, average slope of the wall section — 60°. 6. Pitons hammered: for belaying — 48, for creating anchor points — 1. 7. Number of nights and their characteristics — 1, safe, convenient, on a rocky ridge.

Ascent Record (3rd Passage)

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Ridge
3. Peak: Sary-Shakh (4650 m) via the right edge of the northeast wall
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average steepness 80°, section lengths: 3 – 100 m, 4 – 140 m, 5 – 230 m, 6 – 145 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | Type of pitons | For belay | For creating ITO | | :------------- | :-------- | :--------------- |