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Ascent to the Stazherov peak from Znachkovst ridge, 2A category of difficulty, via Bolshoy Akturu glacier and snow-ice slope.

V. Stazhеров peak from Znachkistov pass, 2A cat.

From the camp, move up towards the Big Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Further, move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhеров peak. On the moraine ridge, there is a glaciologists' camp, and behind the ridge, there is a lake. It takes 3–3.5 hours to walk from the camp. It is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the moraine lake, move up towards Znachkistov pass. The ascent goes first along the scree, then along the snowy slope. Time — 1.5–2 hours.

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Description of the 2A category complexity route to the summit Studentskaya-Vostochnaya 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge, including detailed technical information and photographs.

1.2. Severo-Chuyskiy ridge, Aktuu valley

STUDENTOV Vostochny 3745 m via the south-eastern ridge Proposed:

  • Cat. diff. 2A, route No. 64-a
  • Route type: combined Note: the height (3745.1) is taken from a published online map at 1:50,000 scale. Elevation gain according to the group's altimeter: 3750–2830 = 920 m. Route length:
  • to the pass level — 2700 m (calculated)
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Traverse of the Studenov and Yunost peaks, category 2B complexity, via Bolshoy Akturu Glacier and rocky ridge with the key section "Bolshoy zhandarm" - a rocky "saw".

Traverse Students - Yunost, 2B cat. diff.

From the camp, move upstream along the river in the direction of Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash peak, following the riverbed to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1 - 1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep talus slope. Further along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazherov peak. The lake is located behind a moraine rampart. There is a glaciologists' camp on the moraine. It takes 2 - 2.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the overnight stay on the moraine lake, move up the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (in rope teams!!!), keeping to the rocky ridge on the right. On the left, the glacier drops off a large rocky step. Along the right, gentle part of the glacier, ascend to the level of the rocky step and cross the glacier in the direction of Maashey pass. The ascent is gentle (crevasses!). Time - 2-2.5 hours. From the pass, the path lies to the right along the ridge in the direction of Students peak:

  • At first, the ridge is a simple snowy one.
  • Before the peak, there is a Big gendarme in the form of a rocky "saw".
  • Movement is alternating, with protection through a ledge.
  • The "saw" is the key section of the route.
  • After the "saw", a straightforward ridge leads to Students peak. Time - 1.5-2 hours. Descent from Students peak and ascent to Yunost peak takes 25-30 minutes along a simple ridge.
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Description of the first ascent route to the summit Generalissimus Suvorov (3300 m) in the Altai North-Chuya ridge, category of complexity IБ.

PASSPORT

  1. Region — Altai, spurs of the North-Chuya Ridge, Karakabak gorge
  2. Peak — Suvorov Generalissimus (3300)
  3. Route — via S.slope, Cat.1B diff., first ascent
  4. Elevation gain — 400 m Slope gradient 30°
  5. Moving hours — 5 from the lakes
  6. Group members: Vlasov V.A. — MS Dorfman V.S. — MS
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Ascent to the Yunost peak from the Aktru valley via the 1B category route, including traversing a glacier and a snowy slope with a possible bergschrund.

v. Yunost' from the Aktru gorge, 1B cat. diff.

From the camp, move up the river in the direction of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of the Kzyl-Tash River, following the riverbed to the large rocky "sheep's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree slope. Further:

  • Move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of v. Stazhёrov.
  • The lake is located behind a moraine rampart.
  • On the moraine — a glaciologists' tent.
  • From the camp — 2–2.5 hours of walking.
  • A convenient place for an overnight stay. From the mo­ra­ine la­ke, go out onto the Bolshoy Aktru glacier (crevasses! Move in ropes!). Move, following the slopes on the right up to v. Yunost'. Cross the glacier in the direction of the ridge located to the right of v. Yunost'. Time — 2.5–3 hours.
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Description of the first ascent route to Pik Bochvara (3725 m) from Sofiyskiy glacier via NW ridge, category IIb.

Ascent Passport

  1. Region: Altai Sofiyskiy Glacier Section number according to the 2002 classification table – 1.3
  2. Peak name: p. Bochvar, 3725 m Route name: from Sofiyskiy Glacier, from the north along the NW ridge
  3. Proposed – category 2B difficulty, first ascent
  4. Route character: combined
  5. Route elevation gain: 550 m from the glacier (by altimeter) Average slope: upper part of the route 35°
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Description of a new Category IIb route to the peak V. Shumilov via the center of the Eastern slope in the Elangash valley on Altai.

Ascent Passport

  1. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Elangash valley, 1:3
  2. Peak V. Shumilov via the center of the Eastern slope. Coordinates: (49°44.068' N, 87°58.504' E, height 3555 m according to the navigator)
  3. Proposed — 2B cat. dif., first ascent.
  4. Route type: combined
  5. Elevation gain: 500 m (between the summit and intermediate camp: 780 m); length — 600 m. Average steepness of the route — 25–35 degrees.
  6. Number of pitons used on the route:
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First ascent of Gorodov-Geroev peak (3900 m) in Altai by its North-Eastern edge, rated 2B in complexity scale.

Passport

  1. Region — Altai, Sailugem Ridge
  2. Peak — Gorodov-Geroev (3900 m)
  3. Route — via NE edge, Cat. 2B, first ascent
  4. Elevation gain — 500 m Route steepness 30° Protection via ice axe
  5. Climbing hours — 5 h
  6. Group composition: Vlasov V.A. — Master of Sports
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Description of the first ascent to the summit "Lod i plamen'" (4027 m) along the 3rd ridge, category 1B difficulty, in the Saylyugem ridge in Altai.

Passport

  1. Region — Altai, Saylyugem Ridge
  2. Peak — Lod i Plamen (4027 m)
  3. Route — along the 3rd ridge, cat. 1B, first ascent
  4. Height difference — 600 m Steepness of the route — 25°
  5. Travel hours — 5 h
  6. Group composition: Vlasov V.A. — Master of Sports Odintsov L.G. — 1st sports category
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Description of category 1B route to Sredniy Zub peak and KVI in Kuznetskiy Alatau.

ASCENT REPORT

  1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
  2. Ascent region — Kuznetsky Alatau, Tegirtysh ridge.
  3. Peaks: Sredniy Zub 1826 KhVI 2005
  4. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B, for winter conditions.
  5. Distance — 1900 m Elevation gain — 630 m Average slope of the route — 22°
  6. Pitons driven — none.
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