Ascent to the Ular summit from Vorobьиный Pass — Cat. II

The ascent to the summit is made from the "Zelyonaya Polyana" bivouac, located below the Bivachnaya peak. From the camp, you should go up the stream flowing from the cirque of the Khamsai, Ular, Khyr's, and Kulay Ljovanon peaks, to the old lateral moraine of the Ular glacier. From the moraine, ascend the snowfield (25–30°) to the Ular plateau, from which you can reach Vorobьиный Pass. From the pass, ascend left up the scree, and then via easy broken rocks. Further, move along the broken ridge with simultaneous belay to the gap. Descent to the saddle in the gap is organized with a 15-meter rope. From the saddle, movement continues along the ridge with alternating belay, mainly through outcroppings. A sharp 10-meter rock ridge leads to the I gendarme. Bypass I and subsequent II gendarmes on the left via ledges, and ascend to a grassy area. The further ascent goes along the grassy slope of the ridge on the right part, and via heavily broken rocks of medium difficulty and easy ones. Belay is simultaneous. The descent from the summit is done via the Cat. 1B route down the couloir to the Ular glacier. When descending the snowfield, go right, as there is a bergschrund at the bottom. Then, from the glacier, descend along the right-bank moraine until you reach the trail, and down the valley to "Zelyonaya Polyana".

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants — 6–8 people
2. Initial bivouac — "Zelyonaya Polyana"

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Ular, 4000 m, via the southern counterfort. S. wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a) Height difference — 250 m. b) Length of sections with 4A difficulty category – 50 m, 3rd category – 200 m. c) Average steepness — 60°.
6. Pitons driven:

Protocol № 052.788 Climbing category — Visual. Climbing area — Ugizakov area. Peak, its height and ascent route — Ular, 3700 m, via the counterfort of the southern wall. Proposed difficulty category — 3B. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, average steepness — 30°, length of sections: 1. 110 m,

1. Class of ascent — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Festivalnaya, 4350 m via the Left northern counterfort.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a/. Height difference — 400 m; b/. Length of sections with 4A category difficulty – 145 m; c/. Length of sections with 3B category difficulty – 370 m; d/. Average steepness — 50°.
6. Number of pitons driven:

38. Hamsøya Central summit, from Bezymyannyi pass, category III, fig. 17

From the "Green Glade" bivouac, follow the stream flowing from the ice amphitheater towards Bezymyannyi pass. The ascent to the pass is over snow and talus. Hamsøya is a ridge with three summits oriented in a meridional direction. From the pass, head south towards the North summit. The first sentinels are bypassed on the left. The rocks are crumbling. A ridge approaches the North summit from the left. Before reaching the ridge, ascend slightly to the right. Reach the summit without ascending onto the main ridge. The descent from the North summit is over easy rocks along a narrow ridge towards the col between the North and Central summits. Then descend down to the right from the ridge and follow a series of ledges to reach the col. The ascent to the Central summit from the col is up a smooth 10 m wall via a crack. Protection is piton. Then reach large smooth slabs. They are traversed via a crack. Moving left along large boulders, reach the Central summit. Between the Central and South summits lies a deep gap. The descent from the summit is over smooth, stepped rocks. Bypass the sentinel on the right via a wide ledge and descend into the col below the South summit via a couloir, which drops off with a negative smooth slab. From the col, descend down to the right along a steep couloir, then follow the valley to the bivouac. The ascent takes 7 hours. Fig. 17.

REPORT

on the first ascent to the summit of Khamsoya South (Hissar Range) approximately 4A category of difficulty, accomplished on August 24, 1979. 200 m, V–6, 190 m, 65°, 48/5 rock pitons, 7/2 chocks, 17 hours. Leader: V. M. Goncharenko. Participants:

• V. Yan
• T. V. Kubonina
• S. S. Sobolev
• V. I. Klestov

Description

of the 3B category difficulty route to the summit "KHARKOV" via the NW edge. From the bivouac organized on the moraine of the western slopes of the summit "PESHIN", the group heads to the cairn of the "SNEZHNY" pass (the transition takes 30–40 minutes), from where the route to the summit "KHARKOV" via the NW edge is clearly visible. The route begins from the "SNEZHNY" pass, going vertically up the snow with initially gentle slopes, and then the steepness reaches 50–55°. Bypassing the lower rock outcrop:

• Bypassed on the left. Characteristics of the snow route:

2. Khodzha Lokan (Dream) via the Eastern Wall, category 5A, fig. 2

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the Eastern Lednik Beloy Piramidy glacier, descend to the Kadam-Tash stream. Then, ascend the talus to the glacier located under the eastern wall of the peak. Fig. 2. Cross the glacier plateau, passing the bergschrund, to reach the Y-shaped couloir. Ascend the icy couloir along the rocks, then traverse the couloir leftwards and upwards, and continue up the left branch of the Y-shaped couloir to the wall, following the ice and snow to the end of the couloir. The exit from the couloir onto a narrow ledge via the wall is complex; then proceed left along the ledge and upwards through the rocks via a gully onto a wide, inclined ledge. The ledge has a convenient area for setting up a tent. Move right along the ledge, then ascend the icy couloir — the ice is glacial. Protection is provided by pitons. The couloir leads to a ridge (a fragment separated from the main wall). A "finger" is visible on the left. From here, ascend a chimney and continue up the rocks to an ice grotto. Traverse along a ledge, ascend a short wall, and then left and upwards along a narrow (up to 40 cm), inclined ledge for 8–10 m. Challenging! The inclination of the ledge increases leftwards up to 45°. Protection is provided by pitons. Ascend via an internal corner; the rocks are friable. Traverse right and upwards, then continue up the rocks to a convenient overnight platform. From the platform, ascend a complex wall; higher up, the slope eases, and snow may be present. Ascend the friable rocks to reach a steep snow slope. It drops away to the left. The steepness increases. Bypass a 5 m high rock wall on the right and ascend to the summit via a steep snow-and-ice ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Upper Siam, Gissar ridge.
3. Peak, ascent route — South-South-East buttress of Khodzha Lokan peak, 4767 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. — 860 m, average steepness of the wall part — 77°.
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Log

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Eastern Sayan–Tunkin Goltsy, Kyngarga valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Trekhglavaya, 2511, Central peak via the southeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 450 m. Average steepness — 55° Length of section: 5–6 pitches — 24 m.
6. Pitons hammered for belaying and creating artificial anchors: Rock — 49, ice — none, bolted — none.