The Table (4500 m) with an inclination of 25° on the western slope.

54

August 12, 1969 3.0. Panov's group

© A. Lorofeev

Ascent from the Purovsky glacier along the scree and talus located on the western slope of the peak to the entrance to the snow-ice couloir.

• The couloir is crossed in its lower part (highly hazardous, grade 3–4 boundary).
• Then ascend up the slopes (grade I rope).
• Then move up and to the right along the slabs and loose scree to the upper part of the wide inclined snow-ice plateau (pitons used for belay). Then traverse left — up along the ledges and the upper part of the couloir, which is to be crossed lower down. Ascend to the right along an internal corner and a crack onto a ledge, then along loose rocks and a crevice — exit under a rock beam onto a snowy plateau. After bypassing the rock beam on the left along an inclined ledge — exit onto the pre-summit ridge. Then along steep scree — exit onto the summit. Descent follows the ascent route. Ascending along the ridge via the couloir is hazardous due to rockfall.

5. A

August 7–10, 1969. L.A. Belnev, L.N. Pimakova, D.M. Molorodov, A.S. Mardovov The route begins with the "4600" pass, which connects the Пуровского (Purovsky) and Толстого (Tolstoy) glaciers. The path across the "4600" pass from the assault camp in the upper reaches of the Пуровского glacier goes:

• along the main part of the glacier,
• then along its left tributary. The first stage of the icefall. The path from the assault camp on the Кисоши (Kisoshi) glacier to the overnight stay on the left tributary of the Пуровского glacier takes 9 hours. Ascent to the "4600" pass

The edge formation rests against a 40° snow-ice slope. After 8–10 m there is a large rock, where it is convenient to organize an insurance and hang a rope. Up to this point, starting from the triangular wall, it goes without a backpack. After a large rock, the ascent takes 10–15 minutes and follows a snow-ice slope with rocky inclusions to a gentle part of the edge. From here, along the ascending edge, which breaks off steeply to the north for about 200 m, it leads to a snowy shoulder under the summit. From it, along the snow-ice slope from the western side, there is an ascent to the summit of the peak. From under the triangular wall - 5 hours. The descent from the summit to the pass follows the ascent route, with the organization of 5 forty-meter "rappels" and takes 7 hours.

Report.

On the as­cent to the sum­mit A. Blok (East­ern) 5150 m via the coun­ter­fort of the East­ern wall by the team 12 of the Sports Club Ary­sy SABO. Team coach E. T. Ilyin­sky. Team cap­tain 2005 year 10. A-pix. 6–8/2–86. Lcio­za­ch 10.12. Su de­ca 0.24. Kha­ne­ts­tob 3.44. 845, 1096, 4 E / 401 41 / 95 86 / 12 60 / 82 а х а, 13 / 11 · 1 / 2, 1 / 2 su А, 20 рас, 3 пу

It is difficult, practically impossible, to capture the route profile. The ridge along which the route runs is zigzag-shaped and is blocked from the south by the towers of gendarmes. Photos taken from below, from the moraine, result in overlapping images. Photographing from Peak Domashny also results in overlapping ridge bends, plus details are not visible due to the large distance. A frontal photo captures only 1–2 nearest ascents; the rest of the ridge is blocked by gendarmes.

Approach Description

From the base camp, bypassing the southern spurs of the peak Dostoevsky to the right, ascend via scree under the southern slopes of peak Dostoevsky (5 hours from the camp). Approach the western ridge via moraine to the first long snow couloir on the left. R0–R1. Ascend the 35° 1000 m snow couloir to a saddle on the western ridge before the 1st gendarme (3 hours from the moraine). The couloir is avalanche-prone; it is recommended to pass it in the morning. Behind the saddle on the ridge is a good place to spend the night in a hollow. R1–R2. Bypass the 1st gendarme to the right. Descend 50 m to a snowy inclined ledge. Rocks with ice formations. Traverse right and upwards to a steep snow couloir. R2–R3. Ascend the couloir to a narrow saddle before the 2nd gendarme. In the narrow part of the couloir is a 15 m ice chute. R3–R4. Ascend the 2nd gendarme directly, snowy rocks. R4–R5. Descend via snowy rocks with top rope on a snowy cornice. R5–R6. Snowy cornice turning into a snowy wall, loose snow on a smooth rock slab.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Kara-Su gorge.
3. Peak — p. 4690 (50 years of DSO “Spartak”), via N slope.
4. Difficulty category — 4B (estimated).
5. Route characteristics:
   • snow-ice route
   • height difference 750 m
   • length 110 m
   • ice section length 950 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class. Ice.
2. Ascent area. Altai. Katunsky ridge.
3. Peak Ak-oyuk via E. ridge. Height 3880 m. The route is snow-ice.
4. Estimated difficulty category 2B.
5. Route characteristics. Height difference 900 m. Average steepness 35–40°.
6. 8 ice screws were used for belay.
7. Number of travel hours: 12–13.
8. The ascent was made from camp to camp without an overnight stay.
9. Climbers:

V. Ak-Oyuk V. gr. Altai Section I. route No. 1. R16–R25?

Passport

1. Altai. Katunsky ridge, Akkem lake area.
2. V. Ak-Oyuk V. gr., height 3880 m.
3. Proposed 2B cat. complexity (report is submitted to change the category of complexity adopted in KTMGV of this route, 1B, which is clearly underestimated).
4. Height difference 950 m, length 1480 m.
5. Leader: Drakin Andrey Valentinovich CMS Participants: Alshakov Valery Borisovich III rank, Voevoda Alexander Kuzmich III rank, Mokhova Valentina Mikhailovna I rank, Vasin Viktor Anatolyevich III rank

Ascent Record

Region — Altai, Katunsky ridge. Summit — Jara Zimerman peak (Altai-Czech Friendship). Route — combined. Estimated category of difficulty — 2B. Elevation gain — 500 m. Distance — 900 m. Technical equipment used:

• ice axes

Traverse of the Kishkine-Tau and Suleiman-Stalsky peaks from the Jamboul glacier to the Severtsev glacier, 3B category of difficulty (fig. 13). From the bivouac on the Shokalsky glacier descend to the glacier tongue. Ascend along the tongue to the middle moraine (black), and along it - to its end. Then:

• Descent to the right,
• Then move along the middle of the glacier, keeping direction to the Kishkine-Tau peak. After some time, you will reach a strip of black stones, running from north to south. Follow along the stones. To the right are red taluses descending from the slab-like ridge running from the Jamboul peak. Do not approach this ridge: there are large crevasses! To the left is the end of the glacier descending from behind the Chokon Valikhonov peak.