Ascent Passport
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Ascent class. Ice.
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Ascent area. Altai. Katunsky ridge.
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Peak Ak-oyuk via E. ridge. Height 3880 m. The route is snow-ice.
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Estimated difficulty category 2B.
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Route characteristics. Height difference 900 m. Average steepness 35–40°.
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8 ice screws were used for belay.
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Number of travel hours: 12–13.
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The ascent was made from camp to camp without an overnight stay.
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Climbers:
Komkov G.N. 1st sports category, cat. diff. 3B Cherkasov S.N. 3rd sports category, cat. diff. 3B Yakubovsky V.N. 2nd sports category
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Team coach Drakin A.V. 656038, Barnaul, Sovetskaya st. 3–8
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The ascent was made on September 17, 1987.
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Organization. First All-Russian Alpiniad "Trudovye Rezervy".
P. Ak-Oyuk E. ridge. Group's route.
Technical description of the route by sections
R0–R1: 300 m, 20–25°, cat. diff. 1 R1–R2: 60 m, 20°, cat. diff. 1 R2–R3: 80 m, 20–40°, cat. diff. 1 R3–R4: 80 m, 40°, cat. diff. 2 R4–R5: 160 m, 35–40°, cat. diff. 3 R5–R6: 20 m, 40–50°, cat. diff. 3 R6–R7: 3 m, 80°, cat. diff. 4 R7–R8: 300 m, 10°, cat. diff. 1
P. Ak-Oyuk (shot from the plateau under the peak). Route to P. Ak-Oyuk (5-A) N. ridge. 1B cat. diff.
P. Ak-Oyuk E. ridge.
Approach description
From the base camp located on the shore of Akkem lake, move along the lake to the Ak-oyuk river. Along a steep trail to the right of the river, ascend to the plateau to the foot of P. Ak-oyuk. There are several small lakes on the plateau. Ascend a steep scree to the beginning of the ice slope. Rope up, put on crampons. Time — 1.5–2 hours from the base camp.
Route description
Move up the snow-ice slope, sticking to the right side of the ridge. Steepness varies from 20° to 50°. At the hanging glacier in the upper part of the ridge, overcome the bergschrund via snow bridges. Further, along a steep (up to 80° in the upper part) snow-ice slope, approach under a snow cornice (the length of the steep section is 2–3 m to the cornice). Organize thorough belay. A hole is made in the cornice, through which the climbers exit onto the summit dome. Along a gentle snow-ice slope, reach the summit, where the summit cairn is located on rocky outcrops. Time from the start of the route is 6–8 hours. Descent is made via the ascent route.
