Ascent Description of the Unnamed Peak "Patriot Peak" 6350 m

The unnamed peak with an elevation of 6350 m above sea level, conditionally named "Patriot Peak", is located in the southern spur of the Akademiya Nauk range, branching off from the Molotov Glacier, at the fork of the Garmo and Vavilov Glaciers, and separates the basins of the Belyaev and Vavilov Glaciers. See the sketch, figure 1. The ascent to the unnamed peak 6350 m, named "Patriot Peak", was made by the Lokomotiv Sports Society team via the southwest ridge. The starting point of the ascent is the "Sarmot" camp on the moraine, at the fork of the Vavilov and Garmo Glaciers. The camp was named due to the large number of marmots inhabiting the surrounding area. The camp's elevation is 4000 m above sea level. From the Sarmot camp, the ascent goes along the moraines on the right orographic side of the 1st northern tributary of the Vavilov Glacier. At an elevation of 4500 m in the cirque of this tributary, the first camp is set up. On the second day of the ascent, it is necessary to: – cross the glacier; – ascend to the shoulder of the southwest ridge. The path goes through extremely steep firn slopes, intersected by numerous crevasses. It is necessary to wear crampons and move in teams. The overall slope steepness is 35–40°, with a height gain of about 400 m. The direct ascent to the shoulder is made via a steep firn-ice ridge. It is necessary to overcome two steep ice sections: – the first — 80 m, steepness 60°;

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THIS ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE MEMBERS OF THE GROUP WHO DIED ON PIK PATRIOT IN 1953 Protocol No. 201 dated November 2, 1962 5B+1

Description of the Ascent to Pik Patriot

Ascent to Pik Patriot via the western ridge (Pamir, Garmo Glacier), July 1962. Group of the joint Soviet-British expedition to Pamir. July 26, 1962. Pik Patriot is located in the Academy of Sciences Range (Fig. 1). The first ascent to Pik Patriot (then known as Peak 6350 m) was made by a group of climbers from the "Lokomotiv" society led by B. Garf in 1950 via the southwest ridge, categorized as 5B. Garf, with the aim of scouting approaches to Pik Kommunizma, ascended to the upper cirque below Pik Patriot (photo 2) to traverse the spur extending from the Academy of Sciences Range (the western ridge of Pik Patriot). Garf wrote about the ascent options to Pik Patriot: "It was not possible to traverse the spur: it rose as a 300-meter wall (see photo 3)."

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical climb.
2. North-West Pamir, Bivachny Glacier.
3. Pik Rossia, 6878 m, center of the SE wall.
4. Proposed - 6B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain - 2052 m, length - 2332 m. Length of sections 5-6B - 1615 m. Average steepness of main sections: 47° snow-ice slope (4800-5600 m), 70° wall (5600-6750 m), 30° pre-summit ridge (6750-6852 m).
6. Pitons driven: rock 219 bolts - chocks 29 ice 82

Ascent

to the peak Russia via the Southeast ridge (first ascent) by the team of Moscow City Council of the DSO “Spartak”

Central Pamir, 1972

Map of the area

From August 1 to 10, 1972, the Central Council of the Spartak society conducted an expedition of climbers in the area of Peak Communism. Due to a delay in the helicopter, the expedition found itself in a very difficult situation, as the valleys of the Muksu and Sauk-sai rivers with numerous tributaries presented a serious obstacle even for a caravan, let alone the transportation of goods by people. The caravan did not have the necessary number of horses, and time was clearly insufficient. Transporting five hundred kilograms of food and equipment by horse to the confluence of the Bivachny and Fedchenko glaciers for an expedition of over fifty people did not change the situation much. The base camp on the Bivachny glacier (3900 m) was only established on July 24, and the route planned for the USSR championship had to be changed. A new route, never before attempted, was chosen - the Southeast ridge of Peak Russia (6852 m).

Brief characteristics of the area

The Central Pamir is bounded to the north by the Muksu River and to the south by the Bartang River. To the east, the area is bounded by the Zulumart range, and to the west by the western spurs of the Petra Pervogo and Darvaz ranges, as well as the Pyanj River near Khorog. The relief of the Central Pamir is heavily dissected. It is home to:

Central Pamir

PIK ROSSII

6878 m

ASCENT REPORT

of the ascent by the team of Sverdlovsk Regional Sports Committee along the center of the Western wall Team leader, coach Efimov S.B. MS "Burevestnik". Team members:

• Samoylin M.A. MS "Burevestnik"
• Lebedikhin A.V. MS "Burevestnik"
• Vinogradsky E.M. MS "Burevestnik"

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Description

Ascent route to Sandal Peak (6150 m) via the NE ridge from Maly Tanymas Glacier (first ascent) Group composition:

1. Volynets G.I. — leader, Candidate for Master of Sports.
2. Mikhailov A.A. — participant, 1st category.
3. Efimov S.D. — participant, 1st category.
4. Yakovlev G.S. — participant, 1st category.

Route timeline

The route was completed from August 3 to 8, 1967, in 45 hours of climbing time by a sports group from the Sverdlovsk Pamir Expedition, starting from the base camp at 3450 m on Maly Tanymas Glacier.

Upper Reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier

"Description of the First Ascent to Peak Sент-Экзюпери (6063 m), Category 4B difficulty via the North Ridge". Protocol No. 427 dated January 18, 1977. Classify as Category 4A difficulty. First ascent credited to the group. The first ascent was made by a group of climbers from the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 27, 1976.

Group Composition

Leader — K.N. Veselov — Candidate Master of Sports Members:

• A.V. Abramov — 1st sports category

Ascent Log

1. Type of ascent: High-altitude technical climb.
2. Region of ascent: Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range, Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi) northwest of the Abdukagor-2 pass.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Sentyabrsky (Szent-Ekzyuperi), 6063 m, combined route via the left edge of the western wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1160 m, average steepness up to the summit ridge 54°. Length of sections with 6th category complexity — 50 m, 5th category complexity — 500 m, 4th category complexity — 800 m, 3rd category complexity — 300 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered:

For belaying and creating artificial holds

rock — 30 ice — 87

Peak Sodruzhestvo

To the Classification Commission of the Presidium of the USSR Alpine Federation

Description of the ascent route to the summit 5640 m

The 5640 m summit is located in the central part of the Pamir in the Academy of Sciences Range between Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) and Peak Garmo (6615 m). The 5640 m summit stands out distinctly on the ridge, having a beautiful outline. A small glacier flows down from the slopes of the 5640 m summit, being a right tributary (orographically) of the Vavilov Glacier. The first ascent to the 5640 m summit was made by participants of the British-Soviet expedition consisting of: – 1. Hunt J. — group leader – 2. Law J. — member – 3. Jones R. — member

PASSPORT

I. Category of first ascents 2. Caucasus, Eastern, Yarydag 3. Peak Yarydag, through the center of the Western wall via "feathers" 4. Assumed to be 5B category difficulty (first ascent) 5. Elevation difference of the wall part of the route — 530 m, length of the wall part of the route — 740 m (including traverses). Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 390 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 70°, including 6 category difficulty — 92° (95 m)