Route Description

From the sites under the buttress, along the talus shelves in the direction of the buttress with a large sharp ledge (150 m). The ascent to the buttress begins along a wide internal angle ("live" stones - belay) through rocks of medium difficulty. Further on, along simple rocks, bypassing the large sharp ledge of the buttress on the right side. Here is the control cairn. From the control cairn, traverse to the right with an exit to a small site under a 40 m slab-like wall. Along the 40-meter wall (pitons belay, key point of the route). Ascent to the buttress to a large boulder lying separately, which is bypassed on the right. Further on, along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the left side of the buttress in the direction of the "triangle" formed by the depression in the buttress. The "triangle" is bypassed on the right along simple rocks ("live" stones). Further ascent to the buttress and along rocks of medium difficulty (belays through ledges) with small walls upwards in the direction of the saddle between the buttress and the ridge of Peak Vils. On the saddle, there is a large site (there is a place for a tent). From the site upwards along the talus (there may be snow) ascent upwards and to the left (150 m) in the direction of the destroyed north-western edge of Peak Vils, representing 3 large "gendarmeries". The "gendarmeries" are bypassed on the left along simple and medium difficulty rocks on the right side of the couloir ("live" stones, belay). From the third "gendarmerie", exit along simple and medium difficulty rocks ("live" stones - belay) to a large snow site under the summit. From it, along the talus (possibly snow-ice) slope, ascent to Peak Vils. Estimated time to complete the route is 6–8 hours. Descent along the ascent path. From the large boulder lying separately on the buttress, 40 m rappel. Descent along the South ridge of Peak Vils, category 2A, is also possible.

Brief Description of the Approach to the Route

62. West Karaugom via the North Edge

(combined route, 5A category) Path from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac near the Gular Glacier under the Northwest wall of Karaugom. From the bivouac, approach the left side of the North edge of West Karaugom peak via the Gular Glacier. From the glacier, ascend 80 m via "ram foreheads," then 200–250 m via ledges, easy and moderately difficult rocks. Next, ascend 40–50 m via snowy, slab-like steep rocks and a narrow snowy ledge on the left side of the North edge to approach the ice couloir descending from the right of the edge. Ascend 170–200 m up the ice-snow couloir with rock islands, bypassing a rock wall in its middle on the left. From the couloir, ascend via difficult rocks of an 80-meter wall to reach the North edge. 5–7 hours from the initial bivouac. Ascend 200 m straight up the sharp monolithic North edge with three steep rises. Then, make a 12–15 m rappel to a col. Traverse via heavily broken rocks of the col to reach the rocks on the left side of the North edge, then ascend via slab-like rocks of a difficult 90-meter wall (30–40 m to the right of the chimney) to reach the North edge. Continue via simple, gently sloping, heavily broken rocky North edge with ice-snow sections and ledges to ascend beyond a small gendarme onto a ledge. Bivouac on the site. 12–14 hours from the initial bivouac.

23. KARAUGOM (W-INDENTATIONS) 4A. K. Traverse

From the camping site of the Tsey district along the trail to the Tsey Glacier, across the glacier to Khitsan, then through the Khitsan pass to the North Cirque, through Tsey-Karaugomsky to the Karaugom plateau. 10–12 hours. Similar bivouac - the site of the Western ridge of the Dyuach peak. Cross the Karaugom plateau to the Northwest and along the southern slope of the Southeast buttress of the V. Karau peak, passing the bergschrund, along the steep 350-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the SE buttress above the large I gendarme. On the saddle, turn left and ascend along the sharp snow-ice slope. Further along simple, местами средней трудности, snow-covered sections of the Southeast buttress approach the large gendarme. Climb to the right along the steep ice-rock slope or straight up, then along the snowy ridge - ascent to the shoulder, then along the damaged sections - ascent to the summit. The path takes 7–8 hours. The further path goes down. By sports climbing or rappel 30 m to the ridge, along the ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the left along the steep ice-rock slope under the gendarme, which is overcome straight up along the rocks of medium difficulty. I and II gendarmes are bypassed on the left along the steep ice-rock slope to the saddle. Along the steep ice-snow slope (120–150 m) approach the Omshno peak. Then along the iced 200–250 m rocks of medium difficulty and along the ridge rise to the West Karaugom peak. Descent along the simple ridge to the west - 120 m. Further into the couloir and along (downhill) side. Rappel 12–15 m. Further along the left side - 150–200 m (rocks of medium difficulty) along the ice-rock couloir down. Along the steep ice-rock ridge down traverse to the saddle. Descent from the saddle along the ice-rock slope - 400–500 m, crossing the moraine crevice, to the Karaugom plateau. Duration of the route - 2 days.

Fig. 37 183. Ronketti East — Main (combined route, category 3B, Fig. 37). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to East Ronketti with the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83 and 179. From East Ronketti, descend (using rappel and athletic method) along the steep 180-200-meter West Ridge, bypassing the Sharp Gendarme on the left, with an exit to the sandy areas of the col between East and Main peaks of the Ronketti massif. From the col, move straight up along the crumbling, simple and moderately difficult rocks of the 150-meter East Ridge to the pre-summit wall of the East Tower of the Main peak. Along the moderately difficult rocks of the 35-40-meter wall (the most challenging part of the route - piton belay), then along the simple, gentle East Ridge, ascend to the East Tower of the Main peak. From the East Tower:

• first, along the simple rocky ridge,
• then along the snowy ridge, descend to a narrow snowy isthmus (cornices).

Fig. 37 184. Ronketti Glavnaya — Vostochnaya (G. Maslov's combined route, category III, fig. 37). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4–8 people) to Glavnaya Ronketti with the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83, 179, 182. From the summit Glavnaya Ronketti, descend along the simple rocks of the Eastern ridge to a narrow snowy (cornice) col under the Vostochnaya tower. Beyond the col:

• ascend along the snowy, then rocky ridge to the Vostochnaya tower of the Glavnaya summit. From the Vostochnaya tower, descend 30–40 m along the gently sloping Eastern ridge. Then descend 70–80 m from the ridge to the right along a narrow, steep rocky couloir ("live" rocks — piton belay) to a rocky slope. Above the slope, exit the couloir and, after traversing a small ledge to the left, rappel 20 m down the wall to the slabs. Along the not steep slabs with many footholds, traverse to the left to the Eastern ridge and descend along the heavily destroyed rocky ridge to the sandy areas of the col between Glavnaya and Vostochnaya peaks of the Ronketti massif. Descent from the Vostochnaya tower is possible along the Eastern ridge with a 40 m rappel down the wall. From the col, ascend 50–60 m up the simple rocks of the Western ridge of the Vostochnaya Ronketti summit. Then, along a wide crack to the right of a narrow couloir, ascend a 25–30-meter wall (key point of the route — piton belay) to a ledge. From the ledge:

Fig. 24 Fig. 25 99. Songuti (4368 m) via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, F. Zauberer, 4A cat. diff., Fig. 24–26). The path from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bivouachnaya peak is described in route 83. From the platforms, along the Eastern branch of the Karaugom plateau (closed crevices), approach the right side of the col of the Songuti pass, connecting the Songuti peak on the left with Uilpata on the right. From the plateau, ascend a snow slope to the bergschrund, cross it via a snow bridge, and move 200–250 m straight up a steep ice-snow slope (avalanche danger — piton protection). Then, overcoming the upper crevice, ascend a steep ice-snow slope (avalanche danger — piton protection) for 100 m to the Songuti pass. From the initial bivouac, 3–5 hours. Alternative ascent to the Songuti pass from the CSP of the Tsey region. The path from the CSP to the Lower Ice Overnight Camps on the right-bank moraine of the Tsey glacier is described in route 83. From the overnight camps:

• Turn right and ascend the scree slopes of the right bank of the Uilpatinka river.
• Cross the stream and move up along the trail on the left bank of the Uilpatinka, flowing in a narrow canyon.

The ascent goes up, and when climbing it, the belay is piton. Above the cleft, you need to climb up the heavily destroyed rocks to a large site, from which the belay is clearly visible. The visible path runs along the wall, which has the structure of a fort and ends with a small site. From the site, they lift to the Small South Peak. From the Small Peak, descend to the NE, while descending to the right under the ridge in order to reach the saddle between the peaks. Further, the ascent goes straight up to the Main Peak. When climbing the tower, use piton belay. Descend from the top to the isthmus and arrange an overnight stay. Along the uncomplicated sections of the rocks, they traverse the slope to the snowy isthmus, then along the snowy ridge, they go in the direction of the "Black Gendarme", bypassing the rocky spur leading to Skatikovaya on the left. They climb to the "Black Gendarme" along the rocks of medium difficulty. The descent from the gendarme goes first along the uncomplicated rocks (6–8 m), then "sitting on the rope" (40–35 m) to the shelf. After that, they go around the "gendarme" and arrange an overnight stay. From the overnight stay location, they reach the summit of Komsomolets along the medium rocks and descend to the snowy ridge leading to Ullarg. The ascent to the summit of Ullarg begins by entering to the left along the course to the beginning of the snowy couloir (about 60 m) and exiting to the right counterfort. Then, along the uncomplicated rocks, they reach the summit of Ullarg along the ridge. Bypassing Pik Artsishevskogo on the right along the course, they reach the couloir leading to the Uilpatinsky Glacier plateau, where they can arrange an overnight stay on the ice rocks. The further descent follows the ascent path.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 28, Arau-khokh massif 3. Peak, route: p. Arau-khokh (2392 m) — p. Kuardjin Uzl. (2611 m) — traverse from east to west. 4. Estimated cat. difficulty 2B: p/p 5. Route characteristics: Height difference – 220 m, route length – 4000 m, section lengths:

• 3 – 100 m
• 4 – 70 m, average steepness of the main part of the route – 40°

6. Pitons driven:

North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024

I. Ascent Passport