- Vils — Lagau (combined route by M. Anufriev, cat. 4A). The path from the CSP of the Tsey district (group of 4–20 people) to the initial bivouac on the col of the Kalper pass is described in route 211. From the Kalper pass, descend along a snowy scree couloir to the Vils glacier and cross it to the right in the direction of the snowy scree couloir descending from the East ridge of Vils peak. Along the screes of the wide, possibly snowy, couloir, bypassing a large rock — a stone on the left, approach along the snowy scree couloir to the "Gate" formed by the rock walls protruding into the couloir. From the "Gate" along the ice-snow slope, then the couloir (rockfall possible) ascent to the East ridge of Vils peak (rockfall and avalanches possible in the couloirs). Here, turn to the right and along the heavily destroyed simple, местами заснеженным, rocks of the East ridge or its right side ascend to Vils peak. From the Kalper pass 4-5 hours. From Vils peak, descend along the relatively simple rocks of the Southwest ridge, leading to the Passionaria peak, to the col between Vils and Passionaria peaks. On the col, having passed its gendarmes head-on, bivouac under the Northeast ridge of Passionaria. From Vils peak 2–3 hours. From the col, along the steep rocks of medium difficulty of the Northeast ridge (pitons) ascent to the I gendarme. Overcome the gendarme head-on or bypass ( "live" stones, pitons). Behind it, along the steep rocks of the ridge, approach the II gendarme, which can also be bypassed or passed head-on (pitons). Further, again along the steep rocks of the Northeast ridge, exit under the ascent of the III gendarme. Overcome it head-on along rocks of medium difficulty (pitons). From the gendarme, rappel to the ridge. The gendarme can be bypassed on the left (insurance). Along simple and medium difficulty rocks of the ridge, ascend to the Passionaria peak. From the col 7–9 hours. The path from Passionaria to Moskvich see in routes 217, 219. From Moskvich peak, 30 m rappel and sports descent onto a steep snowy slope. Along it, descend to the col under the Northeast ridge of Lagau peak. From the col, first along a gentle, then along a steep ice-snow ascent of the slope, ascend to a rocky shoulder. From the shoulder, along the snowy ridge (cornices) ascend to Lagau peak. From Moskvich peak 6–7 hours. Descent from Lagau along the Southwest slope (see route 216). Duration of the route 3–4 days.
KALPER
SHULGINA
PEAK