Fig. 37
- Ronketti East — Main (combined route, category 3B, Fig. 37).
The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to East Ronketti with the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83 and 179.
From East Ronketti, descend (using rappel and athletic method) along the steep 180-200-meter West Ridge, bypassing the Sharp Gendarme on the left, with an exit to the sandy areas of the col between East and Main peaks of the Ronketti massif.
From the col, move straight up along the crumbling, simple and moderately difficult rocks of the 150-meter East Ridge to the pre-summit wall of the East Tower of the Main peak.
Along the moderately difficult rocks of the 35-40-meter wall (the most challenging part of the route - piton belay), then along the simple, gentle East Ridge, ascend to the East Tower of the Main peak.
From the East Tower:
- first, along the simple rocky ridge,
- then along the snowy ridge, descend to a narrow snowy isthmus (cornices).
Crossing the isthmus, ascend to the Main peak of Ronketti along the simple rocks of the ridge. From the East peak - 5-6 hours.
The descent from the Main peak is along the West Ridge (see route 182). Traverse from bivouac to bivouac - 10-14 hours. Duration of the route - 3 days. Recommended:
- tent
- warm clothing.
Naumov A. F. Karagom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i Sport", 1976.