Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — ice and snow 2. Ascent area — Central Tien-Shan; Terskey Ala-Too ridge 3. Peak named after N. Armstrong (4909 m) via the North face. 4. Estimated category of difficulty — 6B. First ascent. 5. Height difference — 830 m. Distance — 1270 m. Distance of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 830 m. Average steepness — 43°. Steepness of the wall section — 51° 6. Pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too.
2. p. Gastello, via the northern glacier. Summit coordinates by GPS N 42°16.605′ E078°25.304′. Route start coordinates by GPS 3853 m N 42°16.840′ E078°25.125′.
3. The route is proposed as 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice.
5. Route elevation gain — 387 m. Route length — 630 m. Section lengths:

• II — 150 m,
• III — 390 m,

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category: technical.
2. Ascent area: Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo, 7.II.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Vilnius University, 4740 m, first ascent via peak "4560 m" (peak M. Majvydas).
4. Proposed difficulty category: 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 640 m; average slope — 30°; length of sections: II — 600 m, III — 850 m, IV — 100 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belay — 23 ice screws.
7. Number of climbing hours: 21 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: 5 nights at one location, all normal.
9. Full name of the leader and participants, their sports qualifications:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — combined 2. Ascent area — Western Tian Shan Ugam ridge 3. Peak Druzhba 4100 m via the 2nd buttress of the North-West wall 4. Proposed complexity category — 4A 5. Route characteristics height difference — 400 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 65 m average steepness — 70° 6. Pitons driven for protection to create ITO

25716.1

Description of the ascent route to peak 4710 via the north face (Peak named after I. Solodovnikov)

Alyskuz From the base camp on the green meadow, after crossing the Sary-Kaynau river, we move along the left lateral moraine of the Zapadny Bayankol glacier to the west. After about 4.5–5 hours, at the point where the medial moraine meets the left lateral moraine, we turn in a northwest direction and, rounding three spurs of peak 4505 (southern ones), we reach the col between peaks 4505 m and 4710 m. After ascending to the col, we set up a temporary camp.

Description of the ascent route to the summit Ulitor 4680 m via North spur of West ridge, category 3B difficulty (orientation)

The summit Ulitor 4680 m is located in the spurs of the Alay ridge in the Kollektorskiy range between the summits Fergana and Zachetnaya. To the east of Ulitor lies the pass Fergana, category 1B difficulty, and to the west - the pass Ulitor, category 2B difficulty. To approach the start of the route from the alplager "Dugoba", it is necessary to:

• ascend along the Dugoba gorge (via a trail) to the confluence with the Ulitor river,
• then along the Ulitor river gorge (via a trail) to the 3600 m campsite. From there, continue up the gorge (keeping to the right-hand side):
• initially via a trail,
• then across moraines,
• emerging onto the Ulitor glacier and traversing its center towards the summit Ulitor.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technically challenging 2. Ascent area — Alaysky ridge 3. Unnamed peak about 5200 m above sea level in the center of the northern wall 4. Difficulty category — 6B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1200 m, average steepness — 74°, length of I, II, III, IV, V, VI sections 0, 40, 65, 80, 700, 545 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for I.T.O. Rock 136, 34; Ice 51, 34; Bolt 14—; Cam 16, 44

Passport

I. Technical Class 2. Pamir-Alay, Gaumysh valley 3. Peak 5200 (Gaumysh) 4. 5B category of difficulty 5. Elevation gain — 1100 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 990 m, including 580 m of 6 category. Average steepness 75–80°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 55 + XXXI, ice — 88 + XXI, bolt — V, chockstones — 20 + III. 7. Travel time: 46.5 hours 8. Overnights:

Brief explanations for the table

Section R0–R1. In the lower part of the couloir, the main slope is covered with dense snow; in the upper part, it's a snow-covered ice slope. The snow holds well; insurance is provided through an ice axe. Section R1–R2. The first bastion is traversed along an icy, snow-covered ledge; insurance is provided through pitons; climbing is of medium difficulty. Sections R2–R3, R3–R4:

• Upwards to the right, a steep, icy slab with a gap in the middle
• Climbing is very difficult, relying on friction (there are very few holds)
• Insurance is provided through pitons; there are few cracks for piton placement Section R4–R5. A system of main snow-covered and icy ledges and "ram's foreheads." Movement is straight up towards the base of a destroyed counterfort (start of the second bastion). Section R5–R6. Up the right part of the counterfort directly under the yellow wall of the second bastion, along steep, destroyed rocks and a cleft. Climbing is difficult; in the middle part of the counterfort, on a small platform, is the I control point. Section R6–R7. Monolithic sections of the wall are interspersed with "tiled" rock formations. The section is traversed:

Ii a c ii o p­t

ASCENT PERFORMED FOR THE PRIMACY OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE SPORTS SOCIETY "SPARTAK" IN ALPINISM IN 1976 I. Class of ascent — technically difficult. 2. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains. 3. Ascent route — via the South wall of Chimtargra peak 5494 m 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 75°, length of difficult sections 920 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock pitons — 169 wooden wedges — 9 6. Number of climbing hours — 45