Report

On the first ascent to the summit Dolomit Centralny (3760 m) via the western wall edge, category 5A, made by the team of Krasnodar mountaineers August 2008

Contents

Letter to the Climbing Federation of Russia Comments on the route Ascent details General photo of the summit

Elbrus divides the surrounding mountains into two very different areas. The Baksan area with its peaks around 4000 m and above is much harsher in terms of climbing conditions compared to the Western Caucasus regions. This is evidenced by:

• large altitude differences,
• heavily broken glaciers,
• mandatory snow at high altitudes. In contrast, the area west of Elbrus — Uzun-kol — is mostly purely rocky. All peaks in this area (except Gvandra) are below 4000 m. Climbing usually doesn't involve overcoming significant glaciers, and all steep slopes are free of snow and ice. The Zamok peak is located in the Main Caucasus Range. Together with Dalar and Dvoinyashka, it forms the base of a horseshoe that encompasses the upper reaches of the Kichkinekol River, which, merging with Mordy, forms Uzun-kol. In terms of height, Zamok (3930 m) is second only to:
• Gvandra
• Dalar The two peaks of Zamok — Eastern and Western — are situated on a ridge, the northwestern part of which leads to Dvoinyashka, while the southeastern part stretches in an arc, curving around the Zamok glacier from the south. This southeastern part of the ridge had not been traversed before the ascent described below. To the northeast from the Western peak of Zamok, a ridge leads, steeply descending to the Burvestnik pass, and then slowly rising to the Filter peak. To the south-southwest from the same Western peak, the South Counterforce extends. Significantly west of both Zamok peaks and all its gendarmes, the North Counterforce leads to the Bolshoy Kichkinekol glacier. The main difficulty in climbing in the Uzun-kol area lies in overcoming complex rock walls of heavily broken rock ridges; however, climbs usually don't take much time. Examples of relatively short but extremely complex routes include the well-known wall routes:

Report on the First Ascent to v. Zamok from the Northwest (Training Gathering of the Central Council of the LOKOMOTIV Sports Society)

Southeast Ridge of v. Zamok

(View from v. Burevestnik) View of v. Zamok from the ridge of v. Dolomit. The route of the first ascent to v. Zamok from the northwest wall.

Ascent to the summit Zamok 3981 m via the northwestern ice-snow wall, approximately 5A category of difficulty. The first passage of the specified route was made in 1977 by a team from the "Uzunkol" camp, consisting of:

• Korablin B.N. - Master of Sports of the USSR - leader
• Oshche E.A. - Candidate Master of Sports
• Rybakov M.I. - Candidate Master of Sports
• Popov V.I. - Candidate Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class - ice-snow
2. Ascent area - Western Caucasus, Gvandra region

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class

• rock

2. Ascent Area

• Western Caucasus, Gvandrinsky region

3. Peak, Route

• Zamok — 3930 m, south-southeast wall, first ascent, 5B cat. diff.

4. Route Characteristics:

• height difference to the summit — 850 m
• wall height difference — 550 m

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route — Kirpich peak 3744 m, right part of the Western wall
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3B
5. Route characteristics — height difference — 850 m
6. Pitons hammered for belaying:
   • rock pitons — 32 pcs.
   • bolt pitons — 0
   • ice pitons — 0

«Kirpich»

(Classified as 5B+1 cat. Protocol №187 from 27.10.1961)

Via South Face

Combined team of Central Council of the Voluntary Sports Society “Trud”

Coach Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — G.P. Kolenov, Team Leader Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — Yu.I. Chernosliven Tourist Club, reading room 2764 Moscow, 1960

1. Group Composition

The ascent was made by the LOS DSO "TRUD" team in the following composition:

1. Manoilov Yu.S. — leader, CMS
2. Antipenko E.S. — participant, CMS
3. Antonovsky I.D. — participant, CMS
4. Vasiliev B.P. — participant, CMS
5. Solonnikov Vikt.A. — participant, MS This composition was planned according to the application, and during preparation and ascent, it remained unchanged.

V. Kirpich

![img-0.jpeg](https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg "width":1401,"height":1923,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/UMHtuItGsZD4twbBwNHQlykIJ0Y8IwbM/img-0.jpeg","id":64745582)

CIS Championship 2007

High-altitude technical class Classification Commission of the FAR

Report

on the first ascent of the route to peak Kirpich (3800 m) via the left part of the Western wall, category 6A (KTMGV item 2.3), made by the team of the Luhansk Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Team leader: Pugachev S.A., Master of Sports, instructor 2nd category Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Master of Sports, instructor 1st category. Luhansk Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Chairman: Zagirnyak Mikhail Vasilievich Ukraine, 91005, Dalnevostochnaya str., 2D

REPORT

on the ascent to Mt. "Dzhailyk" (4533 m) via the Southwest Counterfort of the Western Ridge by the Dzhailyk Alpine Camp team (first ascent) Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich 1983 Alpine Camp "Dzhailyk" 360 000 Nalchik, P.O. Box 47 Team leader — Ivanov Alexander Vasilyevich 141 400 Moscow Region, Khimki, Aptechnaya St., 6, apt. 17 Team coach — Popov Viktor Pavlovich