ASCENT TO SHAURTU PEAK FROM THE SOUTH VIA THE COULISSE

The Shaurtu peak is located in the Kargashilsky ridge, which separates the Chegem and Cherek-Bezengi valleys. The height of the peak is 4303 m. The route to Shaurtu peak from the south was classified in 1959 as a 2B category of difficulty. The route is combined. Route Description Day 1. From the "Bezengi" alpine camp, the path goes along the right-bank (orographically) moraine of the Bezengi glacier to Missees-Kosh. Then you need to descend along the trail to the glacier and move up the glacier, gradually crossing it, to reach the stream flowing from the glacier's cirque, opposite Missees-Kosh. The second stream flows from the cirque of the Salynan glacier. From the Bezengi glacier, you need to ascend to the left (orographically) moraine to the right of the stream. Further, the path goes along the stream, to the "ram's foreheads," here you should cross the stream and move up the left (in the direction of travel) side of the stream. To the first "ram's foreheads," you should again cross to the right (in the direction of travel) side of the stream and ascend first through the grass, and then through the talus in the direction of the glacier's tongue. At the point where the glacier flattens, there is a convenient camping spot. The journey from the camp takes 4-5 hours. Day 2.

150. Shaurtu Glavnaya via West Ridge (A. Germogenov's combined route, category III, Figs. 14, 17). The path from the Chegem tourist base (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the moraine under the West Ridge of Shaurtu Glavnaya peak is described in route 149. From the bivouac, go left along the Northeast branch of the glacier (closed crevices) to the wide 1st gendarme of the West Ridge of Shaurtu Glavnaya peak. Behind it, turn right and cross the snow bridge over the bergschrund, then ascend the steep 45-50-meter ice-and-snow slope to the snow saddle of the West Ridge. On the saddle, turn left and ascend the ice-and-snow slope on the left side of the West Ridge or between rocks and snow - a 120-150 m ascent - to the wide snow West shoulder. From the shoulder, follow the steep West Ridge to approach the 2nd gendarme, bypass it along the steep ice-and-snow slope on the left side (piton protection), and ascend the couloir behind it to the West Ridge. Then, ascend the wall and slabs to approach the 3rd gendarme. Bypass it on the left and emerge onto a snow saddle behind it. Over simple, местами medium-difficulty steep icy rocks - ascent (piton protection) - to the 4th gendarme. From the gendarme, cross the ice-and-snow saddle (cornices, protection), and ascend the ice-and-snow slope with rocky outcrops on the left side of the West Ridge to the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From the initial bivouac - 5-6 hours.

Fig. 13 49. Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy via the South Ridge (a combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 13). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River (a group of 4–12 people) ascend the moraine ridge to its end under the slopes of Peak Shevchenko. From here (closed crevasses) cross to the right side of the Nakhashbita Glacier and ascend it to the Northwest Branch of the glacier, descending from the right from the Moris Torez Pass. Then:

• turn right and, staying on the right side, traverse the icefall in the lower part of the Northwest Branch of the Nakhashbita Glacier;
• move up the gentle (closed crevasses) snow plateau and slopes of the Northwest Branch of the glacier in the direction of the Moris Torez Pass;
• approach the snow slope — a couloir descending from the South Shoulder of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy on the right. From the base camp — 4–5 hours. Here, turn off the glacier to the right and ascend a gentle 300-meter snow slope — a couloir — to the ridge leading to the South Shoulder of the South Ridge of Peak Dneprovskoy Pravdy. From the glacier, about 1 hour. On the ridge, turn left and traverse a simple, gentle, snow-covered ridge — slope — to the South Shoulder.

Fig. 8 32. Doppakh East via the North-Eastern Slope (combined route A. Zyuzin, cat. 4B, Fig. 8). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygan-su River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4-8 people), ascend via the crest of the left-bank moraine of the glacier to its end. Here, descend to the right onto the Nakhashbita Glacier and approach the serac zone of its Southern branch. On the route:

• Ascend the powerful, steep, and heavily crevassed serac zone to the upper snow plateau leading to the Doppakh Pass.
• Traverse the plateau to the right and upwards onto the scree of the short Northern counterfort of the North-Eastern slope of the Eastern ridge of the Vostochny Doppakh peak. The initial bivouac is on the scree. From the base camp, it takes 6-7 hours. The approach path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow to the Doppakh Pass is described in route 17. From the pass, descend northwards down a steep ice-snow slope with an 8-10-meter sheer wall of the bergschrund in the lower part. Further, keeping to the left side of the Nakhashbita Glacier, it is necessary:
• to descend a steep slope with numerous crevasses;

34. Doppakh Eastern — Western (A. Zyuzin's combined route, 5A cat. dif.).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (4-8 people group), to the summit of Eastern Doppakh is described in routes 31, 32. From Eastern Doppakh, descend in the direction of Central Doppakh along a 40-meter steep rocky ridge to a small saddle with a summit tower. From it, make a 30 m rappel to the left, then along a ledge on the left side of the tower, exit to the western ridge of the summit. Further, along rocks of medium difficulty, ascend 30 m along the ridge to the Black Gendarme. From it, make a 25 m rappel along steep, destroyed rocks to the ridge. From here, along simple, destroyed rocks of the ridge, passing a saddle, ascend to the Flat Gendarme. From the Gendarme, descend to an ice-snow saddle. From the saddle, along a simple 40-50-meter ice-snow ridge with sections of rocks, ascend to the Central Gendarme (Doppakh-3). From Central Gendarme, descend along the ridge or ledges on its right side to the inclined northward Gendarme Tower. From under the Tower, make a 25 m rappel to the left. Bypassing the Gendarme, ascend to the saddle of the ridge. Further, along a steep, complex ridge, ascend to the Gendarme Kupol. From Kupol, descend along the ice-snow ridge to a snow plateau. Set up a bivouac on the plateau. From Eastern Doppakh, 6-8 hours. Along the plateau, bypass the large Pre-summit Gendarme from the right and, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80 m along a steep ice-snow slope to the rocky base of Central Doppakh. Along difficult rocks of a 50-60-meter wall, ascend to the sharp ridge of the summit and along it, exit to Central Doppakh. From the plateau, 2-3 hours.

Route 1. Nakhalibita — Mayak via Idiа along the Nakhоdibita glacier

D2H5Й, combined, 2B category of difficulty From the "Nakhalibita" ascent - north along the grassy slopes, along a small river flowing from the "Nakhalibita D2H5H" glacier, exit to the terminal moraine of the glacier (photo 32). From here, to the right with a gain in height - ascent to the upper snowfield (avalanche debris to the left, orographically from the lowering of the glacier tongue). From the "Nakhalibita" clearing, about two hours. Wearing crampons, in rope teams, exit to the glacier along a fairly steep ice slope. Crevasses are passed over snow bridges, approximately in the middle part of the glacier. Belay through ice axe and ice screws (1-2 pieces). After 30-40 minutes, having exited to the open, gentle part of the glacier, cross it to the left along the way, under the rocks, along a steep snowy ascent 200-250 m long. The bergschrund is overcome along a snow bridge. Belay through ice axe. Further ascent along the rocks, having a steep icy slope to the right along the way, broken by crevasses. Having crossed a wide transverse crevasse, visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing, ascent along the rocks of Malaya Nakhashbita along a steep snowy-icy slope, above the diagonal bergschrund, between two separate rocky outcrops to a large triangular rock, clearly visible from the "Nakhashbita" clearing. Here you can make a halt. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing - 5-6 hours of walking. From the rocks, having crossed a small crevasse, traverse the snowy-icy slope to the right along two bergschrunds. Belay through ice screws (1-2 pieces). Bergschrunds are crossed in the middle part along bridges with careful belay. Further along a steep (35-40°) snowy-icy slope - exit to the saddle between Malaya Nakhashbita and Glaznaya. Belay through ice screws (2-3 pieces), movement straight on with front points. From the rest place under the triangular rock - one to two hours of walking.

Fig. 9 35. Suganbashi via the Northwest Ridge (a combined route by A. Zyuzin, category 3B difficulty, Fig. 9). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4-8 people), ascend along the moraine ridge up the gorge. Then move right onto the Nakhashbita Glacier, cross it diagonally to the right and upwards, and approach the Western branch of the glacier descending from the Sugan Ridge saddle (between the Suganbashi peak on the left and the Central Sugan massif on the right). From here, along the broken snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch of the

Fig. 12 42. Sugantau via the South Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-20 people) to the Gulchi pass with a bivouac on the pass or on the rocky platforms of the Eastern counterfort of the South Ridge of Sugantau peak, under the right side of the Gulchi pass, is described in route 46. At the pass, turn right and ascend along the edge of snow and rocks along the left side of the South Ridge of Sugantau peak, then up a steep 80-90-meter ice-and-snow slope (pitched protection). Beyond the ascent:

• along the sharp snowy South Ridge,
• then along a small rocky outcrop, exit left onto the upper snow plateau of the southwestern slope of the peak. The upper plateau can also be reached from the left of the South Ridge, via an ice-and-snow slope with a 60-80-meter ice-and-snow ascent (pitched protection). On the right side of the gentle snowy slope of the plateau (closed crevasses), staying close to the South Ridge, approach the summit ascent.

Fig. 12 41. Sugantau via the South Slope (snow and ice route, category 2B difficulty level, Fig. 12). From the tourist base hut located on a wide grassy clearing in the Karasu valley, on the right bank of the Dykhsu River, at the entrance to the canyon of the same gorge (group size: 4-20 people), descend to the Karasu River along a trail and cross it via a bridge. Then, ascend along the Karasu River's bank in the direction of the Shtulu Pass. The trail crosses the river several times via small bridges. Near the lake on the right bank of the Karasu River:

• Turn left, away from the trail leading to the Shtulu Pass;
• Ascend up the steep slope on the left bank of the Aksu River until reaching the confluence with the stream flowing from the Yuzhny Sugan Glacier. After this:
• Cross the Aksu River;
• Ascend along the Yuzhny Sugan stream;

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.