Activity Feed
Route Description: левой части 3 стены
Ascent description of the Bodhona Peak (5138 m) in the Fann Mountains via the route of category 6A difficulty through the left part of the western wall.
Ascent Passport
- Technical class
- Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
- Bodkhona, 5138 m, via the left part of the western wall (A. Moshnikov's route, 2nd ascent)
- Difficulty category: 6A
- Height difference: 1100 m (wall section — 700 m) Length: 1900 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 70 °
- Pitons driven: | rock | bolt | placements | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :------: | :-: |
Route Description: левой части 3 стены
### Description of Route 6A cat. via the left part of the western wall to Bodkhona Peak (5138 m) in the Fann Mountains.
ASCENT REPORT
- Technical category
- Fann Mountains, Zeravshan Range
- Bodhona, 5138 m, via the left part of the western wall (A. Moshnikov's route, 2nd ascent)
- Category: 6A
- Height difference: 1100 m (wall section — 700 m) Distance: 1900 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall section: 70°
- Pitons used: | rock | bolt | chockstones | ice screws | | :--: | :----: | :--------: | :-------: |
Route Description: пр.части С ст. бастиона
Description of the 5B category complexity route to the Zamok summit via the Narandas shoulder in the Shan mountains with a detailed analysis of the passage sections.
Passport
- Technical class
- Pamir-Alay, Shan mountains, Zeravshan ridge
- Peak Zamok via the right part of the North wall of Parandas shoulder
- Proposed 5B cat. diff., first ascent
- Elevation gain 1100 m, length 1892 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. is 876 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route is 76° (3800–4380), including:
- 6 cat. diff. 86° (3960–4060)
- 85° (4080–4165)
Route Description: правой части СЗ стены
Ascent to the summit of Chapdara (5197 m) on the right side of the west face in the Fann Mountains, 5A grade, climbed for the second time in 1978.
The route was climbed for the second time.
Ascent Details
- Climbing category
- Climbing region — Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains
- Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: Chapdara peak (5197 m) via the right side of the western wall.
- Ascent characteristics: height difference 5197 – 2730 = 2467 m average steepness 55–60° length of the complex section 60 meters
- Pitons used:
Route Description: В стене
Ascent to Chapdara peak (5297 m) via North-East wall, 6B difficulty category.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — high-altitude technical
- Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Chapdara, 5297 m, via the Northeast wall.
- Expected difficulty category — 6B cat. diff., classified
- Route characteristics — wall, total route length (sections R0–R24) — 2200 m, length of sections I–VI cat. diff. — 920 m, wall height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 85–87°
- Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating ITDs: rock — 208 pcs., ice — 6 pcs., bolt — 12 pcs., chocks — 3 pcs.
- Number of climbing hours — 42 hours
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics — three bivouacs: first — lying in a niche, all together; second — on a narrow ledge, three + one; third — on the ridge, platform, all together.
Route Description: С стене
Description of a Category 5B route to the summit of Arg (4,200 m) via the north wall in the Fann Mountains, climbed by a group of climbers in 1987.
PASSPORT
- Rock climbing category
- Fann Mountains, Arg valley
- Peak Arg, 4200 m, via the north wall (variant by A. Maly)
- Category 5B difficulty
- Elevation gain 1200 m route length 1805 m, including 525 m of category U–U1 sections
- Pitons used: rock pitons: 78 bolt pitons: 6*
Route Description: С гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit, including details on traversing the route, descent, and recommendations for climbers on equipment and organization of the ascent.
Another rope is needed on the snow-ice section, which turns into the cupola of the forepeak — 5270 m. 10 hours from the second overnight stay. From the forepeak, a 10 m descent and then simple rocks, followed by a snowpatch, lead to the ascent to the summit (fig. 1–6). Descent follows the ascent route down to the pass. From the ridge down into the left gorge along the middle axis down to the canyon. Further down to the left onto the ridge's northwest spur. From the ridge, descend along the fine scree and the Ksheshi river and along the right (geographical) side of the river down to the small bridge near the kettle, then along the trail to the base camp. 8–10 hours from the initial overnight stays. Recommendations for climbers.
- Number of participants — 4 people
- Time of departure from camp — first half of the day.
- Places for picketing bivouacs — below the pass, in the couloir, in the depression between the forepeak and the summit, and in places indicated in the description.
- Equipment — main rope 2×40 m, auxiliary rope 1×40 m, expendable reepschnur — 1×10 m, rock pitons — 20 pcs, non-withdrawable pitons — 7 pcs, rock hammers — 2 pcs, carabiners — 12–15 pcs, ice screws — 4 pairs, tent — 1 pc.
Route Description: ЮВ ребру
Description of the first ascent via the northwestern edge of Ak-Su Peak (5217) in the Turkestan Range, made by a team of climbers in 1990.
Passport
I. Technical Class 2. Pamiro-Alai, Turkestan Range, Ak-Su valley 3. Peak Ak-Su (5217) via 10-B rib 4. Proposed 6A first ascent 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain – 1350 m Length – 2600 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade – 1217 m Average steepness of the main part – 71°
Route Description: С стене
Description of the passage of a 5B category difficulty route via the North-West wall of the Western shoulder of Peak A. Blok in the Pamir Mountains in 1988.
V. V. Mast. 1st sports category technical.
- Technical class.
- Pamir, Ak-Su valley.
- Western shoulder of A. Blok via north-west face.
- Difficulty category — 5B (second ascent).
- Height difference — 680 m. Distance — 1728 m, distance of sections 5–6 diff. cat. — 640 m, average steepness of main sections:
- Ice part — 60°
- Wall part — 80°
- Pitons hammered in:
Route Description: СЗ стене
Ascent to the summit of Ashan (4230 m) in the Turkestan Range, category 6 complexity, route description and key moments of the 1988 expedition.
ASCENT DOCUMENT. 6A
- ASCENT CLASS. ROCK.
- ASCENT AREA, RIDGE. TURKESTAN.
- PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE, ROUTE CHARACTER: Asan 4230 m, 3rd wall.
- PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6A cat. diff.
- ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION CHANGE, LENGTH OF SECTIONS OF 5/6th difficulty category, AVERAGE STEEPNESS 72°. Elevation change: 890 m. Total length: 1125 m. Length of sections with 5/6th difficulty: 475 m, steep rock: 445 m. Steepness of the wall section: 82°.
- NUMBER OF PITOONS: FOR PROTECTION.