APPENDIX №2 Description of the first ascent route to Peak Vasiliev D. (G. Yazovskikh, 1967) Pamir. Upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier. Description of the first ascent to Peak D. E. Vasiliev (6100 m). 4A category of difficulty via a combined route from the south. The first ascent was made by a group from the expedition of the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 19, 1967. Leader: G. Yazovskikh. The description was compiled by:

• G. Yazovskikh
• B. K. Potapkin
• K. P. Veselov Chelyabinsk Regional Alpine Federation. 1967.

Contents

1. Introduction.

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE SOUTH COUNTERFORCE OF THE WESTERN RIDGE OF PIK A. GRIN BY A GROUP OF CLIMBERS FROM THE KUYBYSHEV REGIONAL COUNCIL OF THE “TRUD” SPORTS SOCIETY July 28–31, 1976

I. Introduction

Pik A. Grin (6525 m) is located in the upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier. Widespread mountaineering exploration of this area began in 1957 when participants of the “Burevestnik” Sports Society expedition, led by E. Tamm, made the first ascents of:

• Pik 26 Komissarov (6834 m), led by E. Tamm,
• Pik Parizhskoy Kommuny (6300 m), led by V. Benkin. The first ascent of Pik A. Grin was made under the leadership of V. Serebryakov in 1960 via the western ridge. Subsequently, this area was repeatedly visited by mountaineering expeditions. The most significant sporting achievements were made by expeditions led by L. Myshlyaev — the ascent of the north face of Pik Revolyutsii in 1961, and the traverse from Pik Parizhskoy Kommuny to Pik Grin, led by V. Ryazanov in 1964. In 1976, an expedition from the Kuybyshev Regional Council of the “Trud” Sports Society ascended to the upper cirque of the Fedchenko Glacier, with the following objectives:

1. First ascent of the western wall of Pik A. Grin, counting towards the USSR Alpine Championship.
2. Ascent of Pik 26 Komissarov via the western ridge, counting towards the “Trud” Sports Society Central Council Alpine Championship.

Geographic Overview

The peak of A. Grin (6525 m) is located in the Yazgulemsky ridge of the Central Pamir in the upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier, northeast of Peak Revolyutsii. Fairly gentle ridges descend from the peak:

• to Peak Revolyutsii
• to Peak Omar Khayyam To the northwest, towards the Fedchenko Glacier, a nearly sheer wall drops 1200 m, while to the southeast, towards the Grum-Grжимайло Glacier, very steep icy slopes descend. The area is characterized by a harsh climate, large temperature fluctuations, significant snowfall, and unstable weather. The upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier are difficult to access. Shuttle services typically begin from the tongue of the Abdukagor Glacier and take about two weeks. Prior to reaching the Abdukagor Pass (5070 m), all cargo was carried in backpacks. After the pass, sleds were used, which were prepared in advance in Togliatti.

For the USSR Championship in alpinism in the class of high-altitude and technical ascents. Peak 26 Baku Commissars via the south wall. Sports team of Tomsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports. Team captain and coach (G. Andreev), Tomsk, 1969.

Report

On the ascent of Peak 26 Baku Commissars via the south wall.

1. Geographical Location and Sports Characteristics of Peak 26 Baku Commissars

Peak 26 Baku Commissars, with a height of 6834 m, is centrally located in the Yazglem Ridge, which borders the Fedchenko Glacier to the south. The ridge, which descends steeply to the glacier, is at least 10–15 km long, with an average height of 6400–6800 m. The slopes are heavily covered with ice and snow. To the east, the Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) rises, merging with Peak 26 Baku Commissars through a slight depression. In the upper reaches, the Fedchenko Glacier has a nearly imperceptible slope over a distance of 10–12 km, from its beginning to the confluence with the Vitkovsky Glacier, opposite the Abdukagor II pass, and is covered with a thick layer of snow. Along the left bank of the glacier lies the Akademiya Nauk Ridge, which is relatively low in this area. The opposite side is significantly more imposing, with many peaks above 6000 m, the highest being Peak Fikкера at 6719 m. From Peak 26 Baku Commissars, a sharply defined ridge descends northward, along which a pioneering ascent was made in 1957 by a group led by E. Tamm. Since then, several ascents have been made to the summit from the north, and in 1964, an ascent was made from the west during a traverse by a team from the Chelyabinsk Regional Sports Council of the peaks: Peak Paris Commune — Peak Revolyutsii.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. High-altitude ascent category
2. Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge
3. Peak 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) via the center of the south wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 2550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1690 m. Average wall steepness — 74°
6. Pitons driven: for belaying — rock 282, ice 52, no bolt pitons; for creating artificial footholds — 59 rock, 2 ice, no bolt pitons

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: High-altitude technical.
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, southern spur of the Yazgulemsky ridge in the area of p. Revolyutsii.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Pinka, 6254 m, southern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1450 m, average steepness up to the exit to the southern shoulder — 31°, average steepness of the southern shoulder — 6–7°,
6. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 19, ice — 12, bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours: 15 hours.
8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: two bivouacs at one location on a snowy ridge at an altitude of about 5700 m.

— 1970 — Map of the area Note: Corresponds to the 1st prodrizhno-razografia. It is necessary to indicate the overnight stays on the route and their date.

10. TEAM COACH – HONORED COACH OF THE USSR, MASTER OF SPORTS SIVTSOV Boris Grigorievich 11. DATE OF DEPARTURE ON THE ROUTE AND RETURN TO THE CAMP: 16.08.1973 – 23.08.1973.

Map-Scheme of the Ascent Area

§1. Brief Geographical Description

Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m) is located in the Central Pamir in the eastern end of the Yazgulemsky ridge. Together with its neighbors along the ridge:

4.12.75

ON ASCENT TO PIK OKTYABR'SKOY REVOLYUTSII VIA SOUTH RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA GLACIER THROUGH PIK 6254 m. A COLLECTIVE OF ALPINISM INSTRUCTORS FROM THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. THE ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE 50th ANNIVERSARY OF THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. 1968 Photo 2. Pioneering ridge of Pik Revolyutsii. (Taken from the overnight stop on descent from Pik 6254 m.) The objectives of our team's ascents in the 1968 season were Pik 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) and Pik Revolyutsii (6974 m). These peaks had been visited by Soviet climbers several times before, but all ascents were made either from the Fedchenko Glacier or the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier. Our team's task was complicated by the fact that the chosen routes to these peaks started from the south, a region that Soviet climbers rarely explored. Participants of the Armed Forces (AF) gathering began preparing for the expedition in the autumn of 1967.

497

of 30.09.80, 5B cat., semi-circular traverse.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT CLASS: technically challenging
2. ASCENT AREA, RIDGE: Pamir, Peter I Ridge
3. PEAK, ITS HEIGHT, ASCENT ROUTE: Unnamed, 5730 m, North-East wall, counterfort
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY: 6B cat. diff.
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: Height difference: 2130 m.