CENTRAL COUNCIL "SPARTAK" SPORTS SOCIETY ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP ASCENT REPORT ON CHIMTARGA PEAK — 5494 m VIA THE CENTER OF THE SOUTH FACE First Ascent The route was climbed by the team from the Krasnoyarsk Regional Council of the Spartak Sports Society, consisting of:

• YANOV V.F. — Master of Sports of the USSR — team captain
• SOBOLEV V.S. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member
• BYCHKOV V.M. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member
• GAVROSHKIN V.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member
• KOTOV E.V. — Candidate for Master of Sports — team member

Ii a c ii o p­t

ASCENT PERFORMED FOR THE PRIMACY OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE SPORTS SOCIETY "SPARTAK" IN ALPINISM IN 1976 I. Class of ascent — technically difficult. 2. Region of ascent — Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains. 3. Ascent route — via the South wall of Chimtargra peak 5494 m 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference — 1050 m, average steepness — 75°, length of difficult sections 920 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock pitons — 169 wooden wedges — 9 6. Number of climbing hours — 45

Passport

1. Class — high-altitude technical.
2. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains, Pravy Zindon river valley.
3. CHIMTARGA peak, 5487 m, via the West face.
4. 5B category of difficulty, fourth ascent, submitted for reclassification to 6B category of difficulty.

1. Class of ascent: technical.
2. Area of ascent: Fan Mountains.
3. Peak, ascent route: p. "Energiya" (5105 m), via the eastern ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A.
5. Characteristics of the route. Height difference: 1063 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty: 55 m. Total length of the ridge horizontally: 2800 m. The route consists of three sections of varying difficulty: a) ridge 2–3 cat. diff. — average steepness 10°, horizontal length 1900 m; b) ascent 4–5 cat. diff. — average steepness 50°, horizontal length 500 m; c) pre-summit ridge 3 cat. diff. — average steepness 30°, horizontal length 400 m.
6. 26 rock pitons were hammered on the route, 20 chocks were used — all for belays.

Energy. 4A. Via the Eastern Ridge.

Table of Contents

From the author:

• Passage log
• Route in UIAA symbols
• Approach description R0–R1. Start from the overnight stay on the Kaznok Pass — 7:00 R1–R2. At station R2 — 11:00 R2–R3 R3–R4

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technically challenging.
2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
3. Ascent route, peak, its height — p. Energiya, 5100 m, Northeast wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m. route length — 4450 m. length of 5th difficulty category sections — 770 m. average steepness — 65–70°

Area: Pamir, Fann Mountains. Route: traverse of p. Bezymyannyj — p. Vuanlo (category 3B difficulty) — first ascent. Climbing date: from July 31 to August 1, 1973.

Route Description

The approach to the peaks goes along the left side of the Akhbasay river to the place where the two rivers merge. P. Bezymyannyj is clearly visible from the overnight location, to the right is Sakharnaya Golova. The ascent to p. Bezymyannyj begins along the eastern ridge. The beginning of the route goes through rocks of medium difficulty. We pass 6 ropes, a large gendarme appears, which must be bypassed on the right. After bypassing the gendarme, you need to descend 10 m down. The next gendarme is passed along the ridge. The path to the peak is clearly visible. Sequentially, you need to pass 3 gendarmes:

• 1st — bypassed on the left;
• 2nd and 3rd — passed head-on. Before the summit, there is a steep climb, which must be passed very carefully: many loose rocks; for insurance, you need to drive in pitons. From the north, the summit is snowy. We didn't find a cairn on the summit, so we built our own and left a note. Next is the traverse to Vuanlo peak (4239 m).

I. Climbing category: combined technical 2. Climbing area: Fann Mountains 3. Белый Барс, 4505, via N. Ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, sections 5–6 cat. diff. 240 m 6. Pitons hammered: for belay 42, for artificial holds II, including 50 rock, 2 ice, 1 bolt, total 53. 7. Total climbing hours: 21 hours 8. Number of nights: 1, semi-reclining 9. Petrov Andrey Evgenievich — leader, 1st sports category, instructor Averyanov German Petrovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, instructor

12 ASCENT PASS

1. Ascent class — TECHNICAL.
2. Ascent area: – 5.3. PAMIR-ALAI, Zeravshan Range, Malaya Ganza glacier valley.
3. Summit — BELY KLJUCH, 4900 m, via south-west face — FIRST ASCENT.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B cat. dif.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m length of sections 5–6 cat. dif. — 877 m « — 6 cat. dif. — 127 m

In the western part of the Zeravshan range, between the basins of the Sev-Charya and Ktut-Charya rivers, a relatively isolated massif rises - the so-called Seven Lakes. The upper parts of this mountain node reach a height of 5500 m. Peaks exceeding 5000 m:

• Chishtarg - 5487 m
• Bolshaya Ranza - 5415 m
• JKCDOP - 5208 m
• Energiya - 5105 m and others (up to 10 peaks in total). The Seven Lakes occupy the space between the Zeravshan and Ryesassky ranges. Large glaciation in this area is predominantly found on the northern slopes. South of the upper Bolshaya Ranza, in the upper reaches of the Penander-Charya river, at an altitude of 2238 m, lies the vast and very picturesque Lake Penander-Chul of dammed origin. This area is still little explored.