ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Western Sayan, Ergaki mountain group.
3. Peak — Zub Dragona Severo-Zapadnaya (Dragon's Tooth Northwest), 2000 m. Via the south wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category 5B, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 500 m, length 590 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 500 m, average steepness — 70°.
6. 130/32 cams used on the route.
7. Total climbing time — 21 hours.
8. One overnight stay on a ledge under a cornice.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak: 2060 m, Molodezhny peak, left chimney of North wall.
4. Proposed: category 3B difficulty.
5. Route type: rock climbing.
6. Route characteristics: Elevation gain 300 m. Route length 480 m. Length of category 4 section 130 m.

Title Page

Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, Orehek peak 1850 m, via the South Face, cat. 2B diff. 6.2.

Irkutsk.

Climbing Passport for Orehek peak 1850 m, via the South Face, cat. 2B diff.

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, Nizhnee Buibinskoe gorge, section 6.2. 2. Orehek peak (1850) via the South Face. 3. Proposed cat. 2B diff., winter, first ascent. 4. Route type — rock climbing. 5. Elevation gain — 100 m, length — 400 m, average slope — 10°; wall section — 85°. 6. Pitons hammered: wired — 15 pcs, natural features used for belay — 4 times. 7. Team's total climbing time — 7 hours. 8. No bivouacs on the route. 9. Team members: Afanasyev A.E. MS Vlasov V.E. badge Idrisov R.I. badge Lazarenko A.V. badge Nesterov V.N. badge

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Peak — Ptitsa 2150 m, via the southern slope, rock climbing
4. Proposed category — 2B first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 130 m, total length — 160 m, average slope: entire route — 50°
6. Equipment used on the route — 12 stoppers

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p.6.2
2. Peak — Ptitsa, 2221 m, via "Sickle" of the SE wall
3. Claimed — 2B category difficulty — first ascent
4. Route character — rock
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 200 m, total route length — 325 m. length of sections with 5th category difficulty — 15 m, 4th category difficulty — 60 m, 3rd category difficulty — 70 m. average steepness of the entire route 50°

Passport

Protocol No. 12 dated 23.01.1996, item 8. 45th SK.

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Ptitsa Peak, 2220 m, S ridge.
4. Proposed category 4B, first ascent.
5. Elevation difference: 330 meters; length 430 meters; length of category 5 section 85 meters. Average steepness of the route 56°.

Ascent Passport

1. Area: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, 6.2.
2. Peak: Ptitsa 2221 m. Centre of the SE wall
3. Claimed: 4B cat. sl. First ascent
4. Route character: Rock
5. Route characteristics:
   • Route elevation gain: 441 m
   • Route length: 550 m
   • Length of sections: II–III — 270 m, IV — 150 m, V — 130 m
   • Average steepness of the entire route: 56°

Report

on the first ascent of the route to the summit of Ptitsa via the left part of the eastern wall and the southeast buttress, category 4A, by the team of the "Voshozhdenie" Alpine Sports Club (Barnaul) on July 29, 2020

I. Climbing Report

№ p.p.	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the team leader	Lezhnev Anton Petrovich, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the team members	Trufanov Maxim Sergeevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
1.3	Full name of the coach	Guselnikov Vitaly Mikhailovich, Master of Sports
1.4	Organization	"Voshozhdenie" Alpine Sports Club
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Zerkalny peak, via the western ridge shelf.
4. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference – 280 m. Total length – 340 m. Average slope of the entire route – 45°. Crux slope – 70–75°. Length of sections with IV, V category of difficulty – 75–80 m.
6. Equipment used on the route: Fifi hooks – 2 pcs., anchor pitons – 7 pcs., stoppers – 8 pcs., cams – 30 pcs.
7. Climbing hours: 12, days: 1.

Ascent Log

1. Area – Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, p. 6.2
2. Peak – Ptitsa, 2221 m, via the chimney of the South face.
3. Claimed – 2B category of difficulty – first ascent
4. Route nature – rock climbing
5. Height difference – 160 m. Total length – 200 m. Average slope of the entire route – 51°. Average slope of the key section – 60°. Length of sections with IV category of difficulty – 70 m.
6. Equipment used on the route: Stopper – 12 pcs, Cams – 18 pcs.