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Climbing Route Description

To Peak "5600" 5692 m, via the East Ridge, 26 km trail (approximately) The first ascent was made by a team of the Armed Forces led by V. Nikonov on August 16, 1976. Team members:

• Nikonov V.V. — 1st sports category, leader
• Bondarenko B.E. — 1st sports category, participant
• Gorban A.I. — 1st sports category, participant
• Baev A.K. — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
• Gaas A.V. — Master of Sports, coach

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK 5596 M (BROLYAI BAYORAS) VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE of the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR Team (South-West Pamir, Shakhdara Range, Vakhan Range) 1340, IV-V, 257, 70°, 17 cm, 14 m of ice, 9 h, 3 days. Team Leader: BAYORENE Yu.G. Coach: GUDYALIS A.V. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR – 232075, Lithuanian SSR, Vilnius, Zhemaites 6, tel. 63-53-53. Team Leader: Bayorene Jurate Genrikovna

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Alpinist Activity of the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 5616 m (ŠIAULIAI) VIA THE SOUTH RIDGE BY THE TEAM OF THE SPORTS COMMITTEE OF THE LITHUANIAN SSR Leader: BLOŠKIS A.R. Coach: NAVICKAS S.I. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports of the Lithuanian SSR under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR — 232675, Lithuanian SSR, Vilnius, Žemaitės 6,

Climbing Passport

I. Category: High-altitude technical. 2. South-West Pamir, Vakhdarinsky ridge, Vakhan ridge, Vnukut gorge. 3. Peak 5649 m (Academician Kazimieras Baršauskas) via the North ridge. 4. Proposed category: 4B, combined, first ascent. 5. Elevation gain: length: Length of sections with 4-5 category difficulty – 80 m. Average steepness of main rock sections – 75°. Average steepness of ice sections 40-45°. 6. Pitons used: rock – 3, ice – 21, chocks – 5. 7. Total hours from base camp – 22 h. 8. Overnight stays: I – under the glacier on a grassy site.

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Alpinist Activity of the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR

Report on Category 2B Climb

On the first ascent to peak 5879 m (KPI) via the Western Counterfort by the team from the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR (South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, Vakhan Range, Chondzhirav gorge). Leader: BAYORENE Yu.G. Team Coach: GUDIALIS A.V. A. Bloshkis O. Usikas 780, 2200, 30°, 6 m, 5 hours traverse. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR — 232675, Lithuanian SSR, VILNIUS, Zhemaites 6, tel. 63-53-53

PASSPORT

1. Class: high-altitude technical. 2. South-West Pamir, Shahdara Range, Vahan Range, Chondzhirav valley. 3. Peak 5879 m via South Ridge from 5650 m col. 4. Proposed 2B category; first ascent. 5. Height difference: 780 m; length 2400 m, average steepness of main sections 35°.
2. Pitons used: ice screws — 6. 7. Team's travel time: 5.5 hours (1 day). 8. Leader: PLYASKUS Jonas Stasevich. Team members: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich — Candidate Master of Sports, KRIPAITITE Ruta Povilonas — 2nd sports category, GRIGAS Zenonas Zenonovich — 2nd sports category, MACHERNIS Vidmantas Pyatrovich — 3rd sports category.
3. Coach: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich.
4. Route approach on August 6, 1984. Photo #1. Peak 5879 m (KPI) — general view. Photographed from Chondzhirav glacier, August 17, 1984. Distance 3 km. "Helios-44M" lens.

Brief Overview of the Area

Peaks Vrangs (5350 m), Darius and Girenas (5998 m), Litvanika (6004 m), KPI (5879 m), and Academician Barshauskas (5649 m) are located in the South-West Pamir, in the eastern part of the latitudinal section of the Shahdara Range, specifically in the Vahan Range.

Peak 6004 (Lituanika) via the Southeast Ridge

I. Category: High-altitude technical 2. South-West Pamir, Chondzhirav valley 3. Peak 6004 (Lituanika) via the Southeast Ridge 4. Proposed — 4A category of difficulty; combined, first ascent 5. Elevation gain: 650 m, length 1400 m Length of sections with 4–5 category of difficulty — 160 m. Average steepness of sections — 70° 6. Pitons driven: Rock – 10, chocks – 4.

1984 Lithuanian Sports Committee Climbing Gathering

Report

on the first ascent to the peak 6004 m "Lituanica" via the northern ridge from Chondzhiraf glacier by the "Polytechnika" team from Kaunas 400, 650, 21 cu, 22 mg, 10 hours. Congratulations to the winners! TEAM LEADER: Bronius Varsackis. TEAM COACH: Algis Gudyalis. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR 232675, Lithuanian SSR, Vilnius, Zemaite St., 6, phone 63-53-53 Bronius Varsackis — 233005, Lith. SSR, Kaunas, Kapsu St., 101-1, phone 22-57-91 Algis Gudyalis — 233021, Lith. SSR, Kaunas, Kaniu St., 4-17, phone 26-45-91, work phone 75-35-11

USSR Climbing Championship

1983

High-altitude technical ascents class

Report

on the ascent to peak "6100" via the northeast wall by the team of the Georgian Sports Committee FIRST ASCENT Team leader: Gheldiashvili I.A. Deputy team leader: Tarkhnishvili D.I. 380012, Tbilisi, Bakinskaya St., 10, tel. 95-08-55 Team coach: Giuashvili R.I.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Peter I Range, Pamir
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face
4. Expected difficulty category: 6B
5. Route characteristics: total height difference 2260 m, average route slope 59°, including technical sections 63°, route length 2820 m and sections by category of difficulty (m) | 1 | 250 | | - | ---- |