272. Ullutau Western peak via Western ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 18, 30).

The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the Garvash pass is described in route 278. From the saddle platforms, follow the straightforward, heavily damaged and snow-covered (cornices) rocky Western ridge, passing three ascents, to approach the Teeth, which are bypassed by traversing from the left, and then approach the wall (5-8 m high). The wall is overcome directly via medium-difficulty rocks (pitons insurance). Then, along a narrow 40-60-meter ridge, approach the couloir on the right side of the Western ridge ("live" rocks, insurance). Up the steep rocks on the left side of the narrowing snow-covered 80-90-meter couloir - ascent ("live" rocks, pitons insurance) to the Western shoulder. From the Western shoulder, ascend to the summit of Ullutau Western peak via the rocks of the Western ridge. From the Garvash pass, it takes 3-4 hours.

271. Ullutau Western via North-Western Wall of the Eastern Ridge

(combined route by D. Gudkov, cat. 4B, fig. 18, 30, 31) The path from Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to "Cheget bivouac" is described in route 269. From "Cheget bivouac":

• ascend upwards to the left along the rugged western part of Ullutau glacier, bypassing numerous crevices, to the rocky outcrop located on the path to Garvash pass, under the right side of the Lower rocky belt at the base of the North-Western wall of Ullutau massif;
• set up initial bivouac on the outcrop's flat areas;
• the journey from "Cheget bivouac" takes 30-50 minutes. From the initial bivouac on the outcrop, traverse 200-250 m to the left to cross the glacier plateau

276. Ullutau Western — Eastern

(combined route by L. Nadezhdin, 4A cat. dif., fig. 18, 30). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Ullutau Western is described in route 272. From the summit of Ullutau Western:

• down the simple rocks of the Eastern ridge,
• then down 15 m steep rocks and 10 m slabs to a snowy saddle. Beyond the saddle:
• along a narrow ledge on the right side of the ridge (overhanging rocks, loose stones),
• up a 10 m wall of medium difficulty with a crack to reach the ridge of the massif. Along the easy ridge, reach the 2nd Western pinnacle-summit. From the pinnacle-summit, descend down slabs and steep rocks to an icy-snowy saddle. Then, along simple rocks of the ridge, passing a 10-meter sharp crest, approach the Main Pinnacle, which is bypassed via difficult slabs on the left. Further along the heavily serrated ridge of medium and above medium difficulty, approach the Red Pinnacle.

Fig. 30

Ullutau Western — Eastern via the northwestern wall (traverse), combined, 5A

Route description:

Following the standard path via "Chegetskie nochyovki" we move towards Garvash Pass, pass the rocky outcrop "Khitsan", cross the glacier covered with avalanche debris and come out under the rock wall at the base of the "board". The exit to the rock wall is done in the lower part via a simple couloir, 60 m long. There is a protected area at the top of the couloir, suitable for the group to gather. The next part (one rope length) goes straight up the complex rocks, requiring the use of piton belay. Then we overcome simple rocks and come out to the lower part of the "board". There is a "stop for the night" here. The ascent from the "stop for the night" along the "board" to the ridge is 700–800 m and is done diagonally up to the left along the snow-ice slope in the direction of the saddle on the ridge. The steepness of the "board" is:

• in the lower part — 30°,
• in the upper part — up to 55°. The movement is carried out with piton belay. We come out onto the ridge and move along it to the "diamond", which is overcome head-on. The further path to the main summit lies along the destroyed ridge. There are areas for overnight stay along the way.

45. Khimik via the East Ridge (combined route, category IIb, Figs. 5, 6)

The path from the Ullutau base camp (group of 4-12 people) to the saddle of the ridge connecting the peaks of Khimik and Adyrsu, with the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Severny Adyrsu glacier or on its upper snow plateau, is described in route 43. At the saddle, turn left and exit onto the East Ridge of Khimik peak via simple rocky terrain. Further along the monolithic simple rocks of the narrow, snow-covered, long East Ridge, approach the base of the Big Gendarme. From there, traverse along the ledges and ice-snow slope on the right side of the East Ridge (belay) to the couloir. Ascend 50-60 m up the snow-covered, narrow, rocky couloir with a plug in the middle section ("live" rocks, piton belay) to the shoulder of the Big Gendarme. From the shoulder, exit onto the Big Gendarme via simple rocks. From the gendarme, ascend to the summit of Khimik via simple, местами medium-difficulty, разрушенным snow-covered rocks of the East Ridge. From the initial bivouac on the Severny Adyrsu glacier plateau or its left-bank moraine, it takes 6-8 hours.

46. Himik via the Left rib of the North tower of the North ridge (combined route by A. Naumov, cat. 4B, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Yunom glacier with an initial bivouac at the "Sredne-Kichkidarskiye nochyovki" is described in route 73. From the nochyovki, cross the Yunom glacier to the right and ascend the gentle snow slope to reach the snow-covered talus terrace on the left side of the Left rib of the North tower of Himik peak. Traverse the talus ledges of the terrace to the left, beneath the Left rib of the North tower. From the ledge, ascend 80 m up the moderately difficult rock of the rib to a vertical wall. Below the wall, make a short traverse to the right and ascend the moderately difficult rock of a 15-20 m steep internal corner to reach the wall. From here, ascend 160-180 m up and to the left through moderately difficult rock ("live" stones), passing:

• internal corners,
• ledges,
• alternating with short walls of above moderate difficulty and difficult rock,
• beneath the left side of a huge inclined slab - a balcony. Ascend a difficult 15-20 m wall to reach the slab - balcony, and traverse it to its upper left corner. From the slab-balcony, ascend 80-100 m up and to the left through a chimney - crevice, then traverse along a ledge to reach the right chimney - crevice and ascend another 80-100 m. Bypass the rock plug in the upper part:

SPORTING AND TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT Khimik 5AK to the S wall with crest The "Khimik" peak (3935 m) is located on the western spur of the "Adyr-Su" peak. There are two routes to the summit. The first ascent of "Khimik" was made by a group led by Yuryev A. on August 15, 1951, during the traverse of Khimik—Treugolnik. The ice and snow slopes of "Khimik" towards the "Yunom" glacier end in sheer walls of the Northern tower. In 1971, a group led by Naumov A. laid a 4B category route along the left edge of this tower. In 1980, a group led by R. Efimov passed a route along the North-Eastern wall of the right edge of the Northern tower. In the upper part of the route, not noticing a simple exit to the right edge, the group:

• traversed along a ledge to the left under a large cornice;
• ascended to the Northern tower along the wall between the left and right edges. The second passage of the route was made in 1981 by the duo Gnaevsky—Bratsev. This group reached the edge at the level of the traverse of the first ascenders and ascended to the Northern tower along it. The further path of both groups coincided with the 4B category route. In this report, the sports group from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp describes the path taken along the variant of the second ascenders. We consider this path more logical and safer. During the ascent, the group observed rockfalls passing along the upper part of the path of the first ascenders.

The climbing area is the Central Caucasus — a spur of the Adyrsky ridge. The peak is Khimik. Difficulty category — 88.45. The height of the peak is 3935 m Route characteristics:

• Altitude difference — 1000 m
• Length of sections 5–6 km — 185 m
• Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 68°
• Number of pitons hammered, number of placements used: rock placements — 71, chocks — 15
• Total number of climbing hours without approaches and descent — 14 Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
• 1st — lower kichkidarskie bivouacs, sandy grounds

Report

On the first ascent to v. Khimik (3935 m) via the inner corner of the left part of the North-Eastern wall of the Northern ridge in the period from July 16 to 18, 2009 by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of:

• Nikolaev A.V. – leader
• Kabaev R.G. – participant
• Starykh A.N. – participant AUSB "Ullutau" 2009

Addresses

AUSB "Ullutau" 361602, KBR, Nalchik, Tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 LEADER